Brake Light and Check Brake System

[Jason519]

Thanks

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[VADER]

I have had this message pop-up daily for about a year now. When I turn off the bronco it goes away. But, this past 10 days my Turbo went out and I have been just tooling around town with no boost sometimes on a slight decline I can hit 65mph. But oddly I never had the "Check Brake System" message pop-up once, in the past 10 days.

Yesterday the turbo was replaced and sure as hell, when I get on the high way and turbo is functioning providing boost. "Check Brake System" came back. I am 100% certain this has to do with the Brake Check Valve. Just ordered and will report back. Its a simple fix. I am guessing maybe 20 minutes max to swap out.

For my 2.3 Bronco the part# is

MB3Z9C490A - Vacuum Supply Manifold Brake Hose - No Check Valve in here, it's a straight through

EB3Z2L181A - Grommet Power Brake Booster Check Valve Seal - Not needed original seal good
Order 2x, just in case the sensor is not functioning and I decide to replace the sensor later..

Should run about $110

I ended up replacing the vacuum tube with the built in sensor and check valve. Problem is resolved, but honestly this is B.S. Ford knew there was issues with the original design. the new design has the check valved moved from the line going to the air intake and now the check valve is connected to the line going to the engine, plus with a redesign on the hose. See photo's


Ford Vacuum Tube MB3Z-2420-L (Original Part# MB3Z-2420-A, multiple revisions prior to L version)

 

[MotorsportsAustin]

Still having same issue with mine (since September last year). Now warning message and brake light comes on several times a week "check brake system". Might drop it at the dealer indefinitely. Around 10K miles on ours now.

UPDATE!
Code C0049 found in our 2.7L TT.
Towne Ford in Redwood City found stored faults this past week and replaced the brake reservoir and brake fluid switch/sensor. So far so good. I'll update again in 30 days if no light still.

 

[zoldham]

This known issue just happened to my 2023 Bronco Badlands and now I’m having to drop almost $600 to fix it. Ridiculous on a two and half year vehicle that was $60k


QUOTE="Ford Motor Company, post: 1712575, member: 21911"]
SSM 51201 2021-2022 Bronco - 2.3L - Intermittent Illuminated Brake Warning Lamp With DTC P050F In The ABS Module
Some 2021-2022 Bronco vehicles equipped with the 2.3L engine may exhibit a red brake warning lamp and brake system warning message in the instrument panel cluster (IPC) with a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P050F in the anti-lock brake system (ABS) module. This may be accompanied by an intermittent firm brake pedal after driving for long periods at highway speeds. This may be due to improper sealing of an internal diaphragm within a brake booster vacuum line. To correct this condition, replace the vehicle's vacuum line with the latest version service part number MB3Z-2420-H or later. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 206-09 for installation instructions. For claiming, use casual part 2420.
[/QUOTE]

 

[zuke]

This known issue just happened to my 2023 Bronco Badlands and now I’m having to drop almost $600 to fix it. Ridiculous on a two and half year vehicle that was $60k

SSM 51201 2021-2022 Bronco - 2.3L - Intermittent Illuminated Brake Warning Lamp With DTC P050F In The ABS Module
Some 2021-2022 Bronco vehicles equipped with the 2.3L engine may exhibit a red brake warning lamp and brake system warning message in the instrument panel cluster (IPC) with a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P050F in the anti-lock brake system (ABS) module. This may be accompanied by an intermittent firm brake pedal after driving for long periods at highway speeds. This may be due to improper sealing of an internal diaphragm within a brake booster vacuum line. To correct this condition, replace the vehicle's vacuum line with the latest version service part number MB3Z-2420-H or later. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 206-09 for installation instructions. For claiming, use casual part 2420.

Why are you paying anything, are you over mileage on your warranty?

If you are, just order the part from one of the many only dealers for about $200, and put it in yourself, it's a pretty easy swap;

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-tube-vacuum_mb3z-2420-h.html

But if you're working with a dealership already and they're saying it's not covered under warranty, I'd go to a different dealer.

 

[zoldham]

Why are you paying anything, are you over mileage on your warranty?

If you are, just order the part from one of the many only dealers for about $200, and put it in yourself, it's a pretty easy swap;

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-tube-vacuum_mb3z-2420-h.html

But if you're working with a dealership already and they're saying it's not covered under warranty, I'd go to a different dealer.

Thanks for the note. I think it’s crazy Ford isn’t fixing a known safety issue. Yeah they said because I’m at 58k miles it’s not covered. They also said the part was $320. I’m going to check out your link you sent thanks again!

 

[zuke]

I think it’s crazy Ford isn’t fixing a known safety issue.

Ford's thinking, Right or Wrong, is that it isn't a safety issue because brakes aren't lost..

Doesn't matter that the driver is gonna be in a total panic and have no idea what's wrong in that spit second before they hit the car in front of them.. If they knew to stand on the brake with both feet, the Bronco can stop just as fast as it would with assist.

Except a large number of the affected Bronco's are manuals, so now the driver needs three feet

 

[zoldham]

Ford's thinking, Right or Wrong, is that it isn't a safety issue because brakes aren't lost..

Doesn't matter that the driver is gonna be in a total panic and have no idea what's wrong in that spit second before they hit the car in front of them.. If they knew to stand on the brake with both feet, the Bronco can stop just as fast as it would with assist.

Except a large number of the affected Bronco's are manuals, so now the driver needs three feet

Exactly, which I’m part of the Manual crew!

 

[ActionZ]

I don't know if I'm lucky or unlucky...

Got bad cam phaser rattle on a new 24 2.7 black diamond at 1,500 kms on the odo. Dealer diagnosed both banks to be bad and scheduled replacement 4 days later after parts arrive. I take the car home and the next day, the accessories belt blows up for no reason. Have the car towed to the dealership 2 days earlier than scheduled and they take another 2 days to replace the phasers and belt. Said they couldn't figure out why the belt shredded, pulleys all look fine and it's the first time ever seeing phasers go so early. While in the shop, this exact brake light comes on lol. They check everything and can't find anything wrong. Now the foreman is going to drive it home over night to see if he can feel anything wrong with the brakes.

Only 2900 kms on a new car at this point... But I guess I'm lucky all these issues happened so close together and under the watch of the dealership..

 

[harpo]

Why are you paying anything, are you over mileage on your warranty?

If you are, just order the part from one of the many only dealers for about $200, and put it in yourself, it's a pretty easy swap;

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-tube-vacuum_mb3z-2420-h.html

But if you're working with a dealership already and they're saying it's not covered under warranty, I'd go to a different dealer.

"Pretty easy swap"?

So I've been getting the warning almost every drive, I find it annoying but the brakes seem fine. (22, 2.3 manual) If I want I can drive in a way that won't set it off...

So does pretty easy mean that anyone with half a brain and no special tools can replace it? Or does it mean that if you know what exactly what you are doing and have a few special tools it's no problem but takes some time and effort?

I'm no mechanic but I can change oil, rotate tires and once replaced a clutch on an old VW but had step by step detailed instructions for the clutch.

I really don't want to spend $600 or more to fix it, but also don't want to order a part that is beyond my capability to install.

IE if the part is $200 is the $400 in labor justifiable in that it takes a skilled mechanic 2 hours to complete the fix? or does it only take 15 minutes and the "stealership" label is justified.

 

[zoldham]

"Pretty easy swap"?

So I've been getting the warning almost every drive, I find it annoying but the brakes seem fine. (22, 2.3 manual) If I want I can drive in a way that won't set it off...

So does pretty easy mean that anyone with half a brain and no special tools can replace it? Or does it mean that if you know what exactly what you are doing and have a few special tools it's no problem but takes some time and effort?

I'm no mechanic but I can change oil, rotate tires and once replaced a clutch on an old VW but had step by step detailed instructions for the clutch.

I really don't want to spend $600 or more to fix it, but also don't want to order a part that is beyond my capability to install.

IE if the part is $200 is the $400 in labor justifiable in that it takes a skilled mechanic 2 hours to complete the fix? or does it only take 15 minutes and the "stealership" label is justified.

My problem got worse and the brakes started to over pressure while driving. My vehicle was already at the dealer for some recall so I had them fix it. For me part was $320 which you can probably find cheaper and the labor was about an hour and a half altogether was $500 something and the gave me a military discount. I just didn’t have the time to dig in myself.

 

[zuke]

"Pretty easy swap"?

So I've been getting the warning almost every drive, I find it annoying but the brakes seem fine. (22, 2.3 manual) If I want I can drive in a way that won't set it off...

So does pretty easy mean that anyone with half a brain and no special tools can replace it? Or does it mean that if you know what exactly what you are doing and have a few special tools it's no problem but takes some time and effort?

I'm no mechanic but I can change oil, rotate tires and once replaced a clutch on an old VW but had step by step detailed instructions for the clutch.

I really don't want to spend $600 or more to fix it, but also don't want to order a part that is beyond my capability to install.

IE if the part is $200 is the $400 in labor justifiable in that it takes a skilled mechanic 2 hours to complete the fix? or does it only take 15 minutes and the "stealership" label is justified.

I have no idea how they could justify 2 hours... When I did mine, it was literally 15 minutes and no tools required, although a small screwdriver or pick might be helpful for the quick disconnects in the locations circled below, and the disconnect on the bottom right in the picture could be a bit harder to reach then the other two that are obvious and in plain sight.

If you can rotate tires, there are many more steps and critical thinking required to do that than there are to change this hose.

Maybe the $400 is so they can include diagnosis time? There is a chance that something else in the relatively simple vacuum system is causing the problem;

7,8, and 9 in this diagram are the hoses involved, and the loss of assist is caused when the vacuum in the brake booster fed by hose #7 has no vacuum.

I believe the common cause for the problem is that one of the check valves circled fails and allows vacuum to leak back into the intake manifold through hose 8.

There was a TSB for contamination in hose 8 causing problems as well, and ford might be requiring the technician to check for that or even clean out that hose as well, and cleaning that hose out could be adding a bit of time.

But the contamination TSB was for a fairly narrow number of 2021 Broncos, so it's unlikely to be your issue, and would also behave differently I believe.

 

[harpo]

I have no idea how they could justify 2 hours... When I did mine, it was literally 15 minutes and no tools required, although a small screwdriver or pick might be helpful for the quick disconnects in the locations circled below, and the disconnect on the bottom right in the picture could be a bit harder to reach then the other two that are obvious and in plain sight.

If you can rotate tires, there are many more steps and critical thinking required to do that than there are to change this hose.

Maybe the $400 is so they can include diagnosis time? There is a chance that something else in the relatively simple vacuum system is causing the problem;

7,8, and 9 in this diagram are the hoses involved, and the loss of assist is caused when the vacuum in the brake booster fed by hose #7 has no vacuum.

I believe the common cause for the problem is that one of the check valves circled fails and allows vacuum to leak back into the intake manifold through hose 8.

There was a TSB for contamination in hose 8 causing problems as well, and ford might be requiring the technician to check for that or even clean out that hose as well, and cleaning that hose out could be adding a bit of time.

But the contamination TSB was for a fairly narrow number of 2021 Broncos, so it's unlikely to be your issue, and would also behave differently I believe.

Thanks for the info.

Sounds easy enough (famous last words ; ). I'm pretty sure mines just a vacuum leak. Only happens on sustained acceleration or power. It will consistently go off on the same hill on my commute and if I just minimally let off the gas a couple times on the hill it doesn't go off.

It will take me hours though. I'm probably going to spend 15 minutes staring at it, then 30 minutes trying to figure out where I should buy it, then another 20 minutes staring at it before I commit to ordering, then a day or 2 of letting it simmer, then another 15 minutes of looking at it, then order the part and follow a similar process once I get the part....

I'm retiring in a week so all I'll have is time ; ) and no need to drive the bronco ; (

 

[zuke]

Your approach sounds about the same as mine, I just don't count all that prep/research/stare at job time

The way you describe it definitely sounds like a check valve leak back.... Manifold vacuum goes non-existent under acceleration, so any leak in the check valves is gonna show up then.

 

[harpo]

Your approach sounds about the same as mine, I just don't count all that prep/research/stare at job time

The way you describe it definitely sounds like a check valve leak back.... Manifold vacuum goes non-existent under acceleration, so any leak in the check valves is gonna show up then.

Did the first open the hood and stare session. Sure seems easy enough.

The 2.3 has tons of room and that is about the most accessible tube in the engine bay.

I'm ahead of schedule ; ) just ordered the part.

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