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Anyone added a limited slip differential?

gbub

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I've had them all and you can make any of them work, but some are better than others. My 73 FJ55 Landcruiser had open diff front and rear. I could take it pretty much anywhere and never got stuck. I also knew its capability and didn't try something I knew it would not get through.

I had an 89 Ford Ranger STX that had the LSD from the factory in the rear and open axle in the front. It worked well but I didn't take it any place I would not take the Landcruiser. I also have a 2002 FX4 that came from the factory with a Torsen LSD in the rear with an open axle in the front. I liked the Torsen so well I had one installed in the front when Torsen offered them. That vehicle is very capable and it goes places I would not take the other two. I also has 33" tires while the others had 31". That was for sure an advantage.

I have a race car with Detroit locker. As said before, it is kind of noisy but works well on dry track. It is OK on wet track but I have to be going straight when I accelerate because it will spin in an instant otherwise. LSDs are more predictable in a corner than part time locker but can still be a handful in a corner if you try to accelerate too hard.

I also have a TrueTrac on my 69 Fairlane Cobra. It has the same feel and operates very much like the Torsen. I don't know about one being stronger than the other, but I have not had any problems with either. The TrueTrac gets munch abuse from the 428CJ torquey engine and the Torsens get a lot of abuse off-road.

My recommendation is either the Torsen or the TrueTrac. I have heard those helical gear LSDs are like an open axle when one tire is lifted. My experience says otherwise. If you are accelerating with one tire off the ground it almost acts like a locker. As was said before, you can also use the brakes lightly to get you moving if you are going slow. I have never had and issues with forward motion with the Torsens front and rear. I am sure lockers front and rear would be somewhat better and I will surely find out when I get my Bronco off-road.
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crenca

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But I'm also thinking that an LSD would improve off-road driving and get me out of most situations.

I was originally looking at a non-SAS BD manual, so my major upgrade was going to be a helical LSD (so no clutches to wear out - probably Eaton's) for the front diff. I ended up with a SAS BB (It came with front and rear lockers).

LSD would be an overall upgrade to an open diff off-road and on road IMO. For example, those recommending braking to help your open diff transfer more torque to the opposite tire (the one with more traction) - an helical LSD would magnify this effect even more than an open diff. On road in slick (rain/snow) conditions, it would be an advantage, though as some have pointed out it is not quite as "safe" for your heavy footed driver as it will cause your rear to come out to the passenger side in low traction situations where the driver is applying too much throttle. However this is on the driving style (in low traction situations) more than the mechanical tech of LSD's themselves, and said drivers would have the same problem with e-lockers.

I read one comment that said that adding an LSD to a setup with 35" tires is a recipe for clutch burnout, shortening the usable life of the LSD to the point where it is not worth installing. Any comment?
As long as the LSD is rated for the torque of your engine and the weight of your tire/wheel package, it will be fine - particularly a helelic LSD...I personally would avoid a clutch type LSD altogether because of lifetime maintance issues.
 

gbub

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As to the 3.73, it depends on what size tires you have. Also, engine size and type of transmission you have. Actually, having a open axle, e-locker or LSD should not make any difference on what gear differential you have especially with an automatic.
 

indio22

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I wouldn't over think open diff's. I have a similar setup as you and for rain you would gain very little. In snow you can spin yourself sideways real quick. With an open diff, in rain or snow only one wheel will spin and the other will maintain traction for the most part with the road.

Open diff's get a lot of criticism but they will take you places that can make you crap your pants. My brother had one of the first original broncos and he would take it places where I would get out and walk and if you were there you would walk too. The big difference between the original and current broncos is the computer stuff. All that it can tell you is to select a program mode, sand ice snow etc and that supposedly will get you through what situation your in, real situations are not programed.

I get a kick out of watching youtube vids. of inexperienced guys taking their bronco off road. They will go to a gravel road that's a little narrow a goes up hill. They stop select loose gravel steep goat mode then up the hill they go, in 4wheel low on a road that a car could go up, funny to watch.
Lockers jumped the shark when e-lockers became an easy upcharge item at vehicle purchase. Now everyone and their grandma has them, it's gotten kind of ridiculous. My buddy's wife, who does little but drive to work and the store, has front and rear e-lockers, lol.

Unfortunately Ford seems to have done a poor job implementing brake actuated traction control, which would be much better for most pavement drivers than e-lockers or LSD.

Also unfortunately, Ford welded the ring gear on non-locking diffs, so for a 3rd party LSD you're looking at new ring/pinion gears, the new LSD carrier unit, and pricey install. It adds up. :(
 

Brian_B

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TL;DR - highly recommend it if lockers are not an option! Otherwise save it and regear with lockers
That’s the big issue for most folks without lockers - you have to upgrade all the internals because Ford decided to weld the ring gear to the carrier. It really does amount to a giant F U for not getting the factory elocker - I can’t think of any good reason to do so when you don’t do it for the folks with lockers.

So if you have to upgrade the entire internals
anyway, it’s not really much price difference to get the e-locker, and you aren’t far out from a. air locker setup (sans the compressor / tank)
 

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SixGDoubleB

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After reading all these helpful comments, and considering the welded rear end, I’ll be sticking with the factory open diff and going light on the throttle on slippery roads, or running 4H under certain extreme conditions, bearing in mind that I can’t take sharp turns in 4H.

if I decide to do off-roading that includes limited rock crawling, I’ll add a winch in front and learn how to use it properly, and hope I have something to lash it to.

When my 35’s have reached their usable life, I may replace with 34s that have a more road-friendly tread pattern.

thanks again.
 

dgorsett

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base on 37s just use your mode sand mode and low not hard on the pedal if you have a auto two foot it . i go the same places every other bronco goes . i do have a 4 door with a locker but i hardly every use it. it has all the modes i use sand mode and two foot it.its on 37s to. tires can make a differnts to. take it out of drive and shft it you self much easer on the trans and makes the goat mode ingage much easer. my base is a 7 speed i use crawl and sand mode on the harder stuff. i have been told if i had a locker i woundnt have any fun. i do put on a good show sometime been on a winch cable twice when on 35 on 37 did the same trails with no problem. are group we want you on 35s and a locker .
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Tell us more about Sand Mode. OM says to use it if stuck, so I'm wondering if it enhances TC. And though Sand Mode defaults to High Range, do you find it useful in 4L since supposedly TC is disabled in Low Range. I have to admit I'm one of those old fuddy duddys who mixes his own rather than trying Modes, but if useful I might remember to use them more. I've started using Sport on winding mountain roads for much better gear selection up and down hills.
 

Mike leggiero

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Tell us more about Sand Mode. OM says to use it if stuck, so I'm wondering if it enhances TC. And though Sand Mode defaults to High Range, do you find it useful in 4L since supposedly TC is disabled in Low Range. I have to admit I'm one of those old fuddy duddys who mixes his own rather than trying Modes, but if useful I might remember to use them more. I've started using Sport on winding mountain roads for much better gear selection up and down hills.
put it in sand mode then 4 lo then it will hold in sand mode in low. it will do the same in slippery mode to. if you have a auto put it in first so it doesnt shift help it along two foot it.light pressure on the break. i use crawl in my 7 speed
 

Big Boss

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That’s the big issue for most folks without lockers - you have to upgrade all the internals because Ford decided to weld the ring gear to the carrier. It really does amount to a giant F U for not getting the factory elocker - I can’t think of any good reason to do so when you don’t do it for the folks with lockers.

So if you have to upgrade the entire internals
anyway, it’s not really much price difference to get the e-locker, and you aren’t far out from a. air locker setup (sans the compressor / tank)
And at that point becomes almost cheaper to just buy the entire assembly from Ford Performance
 

Brian_B

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And at that point becomes almost cheaper to just buy the entire assembly from Ford Performance
Yup. That's usually the advice given around here to folks coming from a non-locker version who want either a locker or to re-gear: just buy an entire new pre-assembled rear end.
 

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LK2GOD

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That’s the big issue for most folks without lockers - you have to upgrade all the internals because Ford decided to weld the ring gear to the carrier. It really does amount to a giant F U for not getting the factory elocker - I can’t think of any good reason to do so when you don’t do it for the folks with lockers.

So if you have to upgrade the entire internals
anyway, it’s not really much price difference to get the e-locker, and you aren’t far out from a. air locker setup (sans the compressor / tank)
I purchased the TruTrac, new ring and pinion, and the install kit (shims, bearings, gasket etc) for $1400 delivered. It is being installed as I write this, and the installer said $450 to 500 labor. I will follow up post install... 2025 OBX 2.7
 

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Very interested in the results and total cost!
 

Brian_B

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I purchased the TruTrac, new ring and pinion, and the install kit (shims, bearings, gasket etc) for $1400 delivered. It is being installed as I write this, and the installer said $450 to 500 labor. I will follow up post install... 2025 OBX 2.7
I definitely want to hear how it works out for you!
 

LK2GOD

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Very interested in the results and total cost!
Picked the OBX up today with the Truetrac, Sierra 3.73 gears, and Ford install kit done... labor turned out to be 9 hours ($810) instead of the estimated 5 or 6. The difference came from the unexpected welded ring gear and required new ring and pinion set... totally legit. I recommend the installer (S&R Truck in Sturgeon Bay Wisconsin). I am doing the break-in now (20 miles then 45 minute cool down for first 200 miles). Feels good and hooked up already!
 

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It'll cost pretty much the same as adding an e-locker but the no-thinking option is the eaton truetrac helical limited slip. I've never heard of the gleason torsen but the eaton is plenty strong enough for what you're planning on using it for. It is basically a locker as long as both tires are on the ground, and no clutches to wear out and no preload that can make it want to push the front tires in slick conditions.
I installed this LSD in my 74 Bronco. On the green trails I’m hardly in 4x4. On the road, it’s almost unnoticeable. Maybe an occasional light chirp on super tight turns.
I found it to be less expensive that an e locker or OX. Wish I would’ve installed one in the front diff instead of the Aussie locker.
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