Change Driveline Fluids Early!

[GroovyGeek]

Did the work today, a couple of notes.

The lower drain plug on the FP cover is 1/2 inch lower than that on the OE cover, see first two pics. Despite that, the FP cover takes exactly 2 quarts of oil till it starts overflowing the lower drain plug. I measured the old oil and it came out to slightly less than 2 quarts.

The lower edge of the FP cover is slightly above the diff housing (third image). I suspect that this is done intentionally so that if you drag the pumpkin there is less chance of snagging onto a rock and ripping the diff open.

Finally, I don't think it is necessary to buy additional magnetic plugs. You can just install the OE one in the lower position (it is magnetic) and keep the top one non magnetic.

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[Bigfx]

Did the work today, a couple of notes.

The lower drain plug on the FP cover is 1/2 inch lower than that on the OE cover, see first two pics. Despite that, the FP cover takes exactly 2 quarts of oil till it starts overflowing the lower drain plug. I measured the old oil and it came out to slightly less than 2 quarts.

The lower edge of the FP cover is slightly above the diff housing (third image). I suspect that this is done intentionally so that if you drag the pumpkin there is less chance of snagging onto a rock and ripping the diff open.

Finally, I don't think it is necessary to buy additional magnetic plugs. You can just install the OE one in the lower position (it is magnetic) and keep the top one non magnetic.

How long did it take?

 

[Dorf2point0]

Begs the question.. Why is the FP cover a “Performance Part”? Shouldn’t the lip of the cover be protected by da pumpkin? Should you be able to drain the fluid without removing the cover.. If the cover is not leaking to begin with, it should be drain, check the lower magnet, plug back in the bottom and fill her up.. I don’t care if Ford believes they have never had problems with their other differentials but the Bronco should be special treated whichever label..

 

[GroovyGeek]

How long did it take?

I was distracted by other personal items so it took over 2 hrs just for the rear diff. If you have all the tools and parts lined up it should take around half an hour. It is best to have a deep 13mm socket for the OE brake line studs, though I found it easy to remove them with a ratcheting 13mm box wrench.

Since I was retaining the brake clips I slightly modified @CarbonSteel's hardware order from Belmetic

11x BFD8X25YLW bolts
3x S8X50FCLZ studs
3x NFFH8X13YLW flange nuts

Technically you need 10+2+2 but I ordered one spare just in case. Torqued the bolts to 23 ft-lbs and the plugs to 20 fl-lb.

 

[MadMan4BamaNATL]

and @MadMan4BamaNATL remember they are not available as a separate part, you have to buy the entire left side brake line to get them ($75ish)...thanks Ford!

It's the main reason I chose not to re-use them on the Ford Performance cover, but installed longer studs and used the rubber lined stainless clamps.

Hey Carbon, I’m crying uncle on these damn plastic brake line clamps. Tried again, and basically am shaving them down and destroying them. Also they’re on tight, so I don’t have enough clearance to just pull them off first without the unlatch.

At this point, I want to break them and go with the wire clamps that you used. I see the same process must be done for the ARB, so doesn’t scare me . Wish I could use the bolts that come with the FP cover to thread the clamps, but the holes look far too small. In your video you stamped them out, but I have no way to do that at home, so not sure what I’ll do if I use the 1/4 inch clamp on the bare line . If the larger clamps have larger holes, I’ll clamp the insulated area maybe.

Did you connect at the factory location? What size bolts and nuts did you use to clamp?

Going to break them off next time I get under the truck. I‘m tired of it now, so these frustrating things have got to go.

Happy to see so many of you had a much easier time than I am.

 

[GroovyGeek]

Hey Carbon, I’m crying uncle on these damn plastic brake line clamps. Tried again, and basically am shaving them down and destroying them. Also they’re on tight, so I don’t have enough clearance to just pull them off first without the unlatch.

At this point, I want to break them and go with the wire clamps that you used. I see the same process must be done for the ARB, so doesn’t scare me . Wish I could use the bolts that come with the FP cover to thread the clamps, but the holes look far too small. In your video you stamped them out, but I have no way to do that at home, so not sure what I’ll do if I use the 1/4 inch clamp on the bare line . If the larger clamps have larger holes, I’ll clamp the insulated area maybe.

Did you connect at the factory location? What size bolts and nuts did you use to clamp?

Going to break them off next time I get under the truck. I‘m tired of it now, so these frustrating things have got to go.

Happy to see so many of you had a much easier time than I am.

He posted detailed BOM for his setup back in this thread when he posted the videos. All the threads are M8, he used class 10.9 flange bolts, flange nuts, nuts, and studs.

Surprised that you don't find e tough clearance to remove them. It was pretty easy to do so. I managed to create a bit of a clearance issue for myself because I first installed the studs to help align the gasket and the diff cover. The length of the studs required some maneuvering but I was able to make it with shorter 50mm studs. His 75mm studs definitely need to be added after the diff cover is in place.

 

[Bigfx]

Hey Carbon, I’m crying uncle on these damn plastic brake line clamps. Tried again, and basically am shaving them down and destroying them. Also they’re on tight, so I don’t have enough clearance to just pull them off first without the unlatch.

At this point, I want to break them and go with the wire clamps that you used. I see the same process must be done for the ARB, so doesn’t scare me . Wish I could use the bolts that come with the FP cover to thread the clamps, but the holes look far too small. In your video you stamped them out, but I have no way to do that at home, so not sure what I’ll do if I use the 1/4 inch clamp on the bare line . If the larger clamps have larger holes, I’ll clamp the insulated area maybe.

Did you connect at the factory location? What size bolts and nuts did you use to clamp?

Going to break them off next time I get under the truck. I‘m tired of it now, so these frustrating things have got to go.

Happy to see so many of you had a much easier time than I am.

Did you try a pick tool? I can unlatch them in seconds just push up the “triangle” through the square hole and use a flat head to unclip it from the other side

 

[Dorf2point0]

Okay, a 45 year mechanic here.. Get your set of “Craftman” bladed screw drivers.. Between the smallest blade and the medium blade you should be able to flick the little “lock” on this bad boy.. Good head lamp is needed so you can see/insert, pry on that special portion @CarbonSteel speaks off.. Its funny, a hand full of Craftman bladed screwdrivers always goes under the Bronco with me..

 

[MadMan4BamaNATL]

Did you try a pick tool? I can unlatch them in seconds just push up the “triangle” through the square hole and use a flat head to unclip it from the other side

I don’t have a pick style tool, just a tiny screwdriver. Used another small metal rod type thing on a multitool to help but it’s more shaving it than anything.

Laying on my back under the rear slightly raised maybe isn’t ideal for me to see properly; used a headlamp too.

Don’t know what my problem is with this; I feel dumb, but it’s my experience. It’s weird, but now I just want to break them off. Far too easy of a job if not for these.

 

[Bigfx]

I don’t have a pick style tool, just a tiny screwdriver. Used another small metal rod type thing on a multitool to help but it’s more shaving it than anything.

Laying on my back under the rear slightly raised maybe isn’t ideal for me to see properly; used a headlamp too.

Don’t know what my problem is with this; I feel dumb, but it’s my experience. It’s weird, but now I just want to break them off. Far too easy of a job if not for these.

If you look through the square hole you see the triangle you need to push up the part of the triangle towards the flat clip, then a flat head and some pressure on the clip will release it if it wasn’t so late I would video it

 

[CarbonSteel]

Hey Carbon, I’m crying uncle on these damn plastic brake line clamps. Tried again, and basically am shaving them down and destroying them. Also they’re on tight, so I don’t have enough clearance to just pull them off first without the unlatch.

At this point, I want to break them and go with the wire clamps that you used. I see the same process must be done for the ARB, so doesn’t scare me . Wish I could use the bolts that come with the FP cover to thread the clamps, but the holes look far too small. In your video you stamped them out, but I have no way to do that at home, so not sure what I’ll do if I use the 1/4 inch clamp on the bare line . If the larger clamps have larger holes, I’ll clamp the insulated area maybe.

Did you connect at the factory location? What size bolts and nuts did you use to clamp?

Going to break them off next time I get under the truck. I‘m tired of it now, so these frustrating things have got to go.

Happy to see so many of you had a much easier time than I am.

I can drill out a set and send them to you. I bought a kit from Amazon so there are a number of spares.

Did you see my post with the hardware list?

 

[Deano Bronc]

Put the Ford Performace cover on. Went to put the NV diff skid back on and......Nope!!
Damn thing wont go on woth the upgraded diff cover
I would have to remove too much material from the skid to make it work with the cover, and the skid is much more important to me then the convenience of the drain plug
As you can tell, the skid gets used!!

It looks like I will have the same issue with the DV8 rear diff skid. I just ordered the FP Rear cover and I haven't gotten the DV8 skid out yet but by their picture, there is going to be a lot of grinding involved to get it to work.

 

[Dorf2point0]

Okay, can we take this discussion back to ground zero.. The concern is over the fluid conditions in the drive lines.. Let’s first focus on saving these components from the inside.. Once we established what level of grind there is in the rear differential and then given it an appropriate level of inside protection (namely 75W140) you can run with the factory cover and install your outside protection.. If you are sure you are going to be running this Bronco and dragging your pumpkin that hard, yes you protect it but it’s going to be a lot of disassembly to change the fluid in the future.. And if you are dragging your pumpkin you probably need to change that fluid (along with Transfer case and Front Differential) because your driveline will be working overtime.. Cheers

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

Okay, can we take this discussion back to ground zero.. The concern is over the fluid conditions in the drive lines.. Let’s first focus on saving these components from the inside.. Once we established what level of grind there is in the rear differential and then given it an appropriate level of inside protection (namely 75W140) you can run with the factory cover and install your outside protection.. If you are sure you are going to be running this Bronco and dragging your pumpkin that hard, yes you protect it but it’s going to be a lot of disassembly to change the fluid in the future.. And if you are dragging your pumpkin you probably need to change that fluid (along with Transfer case and Front Differential) because your driveline will be working overtime.. Cheers

I believe Dragging Pumpkins was on the early list of band names Billy Corgan was considering way back when.

 

[Tor148]

Okay, can we take this discussion back to ground zero.. The concern is over the fluid conditions in the drive lines.. Let’s first focus on saving these components from the inside.. Once we established what level of grind there is in the rear differential and then given it an appropriate level of inside protection (namely 75W140) you can run with the factory cover and install your outside protection.. If you are sure you are going to be running this Bronco and dragging your pumpkin that hard, yes you protect it but it’s going to be a lot of disassembly to change the fluid in the future.. And if you are dragging your pumpkin you probably need to change that fluid (along with Transfer case and Front Differential) because your driveline will be working overtime.. Cheers

Yeah, it grinds

And it gets dirty!

So disassemble to change fluid is a good excuse to clean, or other way around!!!!
Love that skid, gives me piece of mind. It's 3/8 and 1/4 steel, should take hopefully more than I can throw at it!!!!

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