Rear Trackbar Advice

[Solfive]

I’m getting ready to install the Eibach 2.0 Pro-Truck Coilover’s on a 2-door non-squatch Badlands. The plan is to keep the rear at the lowest setting and raise the front enough to level things out. My question is what’s the best route for the rear trackbar. Is a relocation bracket necessary? Is it enough? Or is an adjustable replacement trackbar also needed? I’d like to maintain or improve upon driving characteristics without much compromise but I’m also not into swapping perfectly functional parts for no good reason. I’m using the Bronco as my commuter some days and fire roads/desert exploring other days. Any hardercore wheeling I save for my JKUR. Thanks in advance for the advice.

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[PWillette]

I’m getting ready to install the Eibach 2.0 Pro-Truck Coilover’s on a 2-door non-squatch Badlands. The plan is to keep the rear at the lowest setting and raise the front enough to level things out. My question is what’s the best route for the rear trackbar. Is a relocation bracket necessary? Is it enough? Or is an adjustable replacement trackbar also needed? I’d like to maintain or improve upon driving characteristics without much compromise but I’m also not into swapping perfectly functional parts for no good reason. I’m using the Bronco as my commuter some days and fire roads/desert exploring other days. Any hardercore wheeling I save for my JKUR. Thanks in advance for the advice.

I'm running the Eibach 2.0s and basically at the lowest setting...2" up front and 1.75" in the rear. I had planned on the Rock Jock 2" relocation bracket but based on Rock Jock's website it was not compatible due to the Eibach full compression being less than 18"...website states the relocation bracket will contact the frame at full compression if less than 18". Had I gone up 3" it probably would have been fine. Other brand relocation brackets are basically the same design as Rock Jocks so I opted for just a Metal Cloak adjustable track bar. I have a tiny bit of bump steer which I'll take versus the bracket contacting the frame. If you're not doing any serious wheeling you'll probably be fine to run the relocation bracket.

 

[Fishwrinkle]

2.0 coilovers here at 3”, no bracket and axle is still in factory position. Spring time comes that will change to upper/lower control arms and track bar by core 4x4 crawl series.

if you’re serious about crawling I’d look into an adjustable track bar and arms. Way more flex with Johnny joints. Tires will stay planted

 

[Aonarch]

I’m getting ready to install the Eibach 2.0 Pro-Truck Coilover’s on a 2-door non-squatch Badlands. The plan is to keep the rear at the lowest setting and raise the front enough to level things out. My question is what’s the best route for the rear trackbar. Is a relocation bracket necessary? Is it enough? Or is an adjustable replacement trackbar also needed? I’d like to maintain or improve upon driving characteristics without much compromise but I’m also not into swapping perfectly functional parts for no good reason. I’m using the Bronco as my commuter some days and fire roads/desert exploring other days. Any hardercore wheeling I save for my JKUR. Thanks in advance for the advice.

I have the Rock Jock rear tracbar bracket, it is recommended for 2" of lift over base.

So right now you are about .67" over base in the rear. If you go any higher, I'd do the bracket.

 

[Solfive]

I'm running the Eibach 2.0s and basically at the lowest setting...2" up front and 1.75" in the rear. I had planned on the Rock Jock 2" relocation bracket but based on Rock Jock's website it was not compatible due to the Eibach full compression being less than 18"...website states the relocation bracket will contact the frame at full compression if less than 18". Had I gone up 3" it probably would have been fine. Other brand relocation brackets are basically the same design as Rock Jocks so I opted for just a Metal Cloak adjustable track bar. I have a tiny bit of bump steer which I'll take versus the bracket contacting the frame. If you're not doing any serious wheeling you'll probably be fine to run the relocation bracket.

Much appreciated! Can’t usually go wrong with Metalcloak from what I’ve seen in the heep world.

 

[Solfive]

2.0 coilovers here at 3”, no bracket and axle is still in factory position. Spring time comes that will change to upper/lower control arms and track bar by core 4x4 crawl series.

if you’re serious about crawling I’d look into an adjustable track bar and arms. Way more flex with Johnny joints. Tires will stay planted

This is good to hear! Thanks for the feedback

 

[Solfive]

I have the Rock Jock rear tracbar bracket, it is recommended for 2" of lift over base.

So right now you are about .67" over base in the rear. If you go any higher, I'd do the bracket.

Ah that makes sense regarding base height. Thanks!

 

[Aonarch]

Ah that makes sense regarding base height. Thanks!

I don’t believe anyone who says their rear axle is centered after a big lift. This is just basic middle school geometry.

All Broncos have the same trac bars.

After lifting my OBX 2” my rear axle was off over half an inch, and as other people have echoed, I was experiencing what I’d describe as rear bump steer.

 

[climb2descend]

Best thing to do is just install the lift and then see how off level the trac bar is and measure how offset the axle is and then purchase what is needed to correct. I would bet a lot of people on here are just going off their eyeballs and don't notice how far offset the axle is.

 

[Fishwrinkle]

Well I measured mine before and after. There was a 1/4” difference so I’ll call that good enough. Not worth the bracket. Maybe I’ll go brush up on my middle school geometry. It’s not that far off of being horizontal either so idk what to tell ya

 

[Aonarch]

Best thing to do is just install the lift and then see how off level the trac bar is and measure how offset the axle is and then purchase what is needed to correct. I would bet a lot of people on here are just going off their eyeballs and don't notice how far offset the axle is.

This is exactly what I did. Installed the lift. Gave it 100 miles to settle, then measured. I needed a bracket to bring the geometry back and eliminate rear bump steer.

 

[Victorsen]

I did a lift on my badlands non Sas. Added the trac bar relocation brackets. My rear still feels floaty and less precise would an adjustable rear track bar help.

 

[indio22]

I don’t believe anyone who says their rear axle is centered after a big lift. This is just basic middle school geometry.

All Broncos have the same trac bars.

After lifting my OBX 2” my rear axle was off over half an inch, and as other people have echoed, I was experiencing what I’d describe as rear bump steer.

If all Broncos have the same track bar, wouldn't that cause a small shift of the axle, depending on the vehicle suspension height (Sasquatch vs Badlands vs rest of versions)? Or did Ford use different brackets for the various model versions to shift the axle as needed?

Or if track bar and linkage is all the same across the model versions, then Ford apparently didn't think a 1" height change warranted concern about rear axle shift.

 

[dgorsett]

If all Broncos have the same track bar, wouldn't that cause a small shift of the axle, depending on the vehicle suspension height (Sasquatch vs Badlands vs rest of versions)? Or did Ford use different brackets for the various model versions to shift the axle as needed?

Or if track bar and linkage is all the same across the model versions, then Ford apparently didn't think a 1" height change warranted concern about rear axle shift.

Making some bold assumptions and using Pythagoras somewhat improperly i came up with a 0.05" shift with 2" lift. So it should be fine, but folks have real concerns, and I think i got some bump steer with 1.7" lift.

 

[2021 bronco dude]

Much appreciated! Can’t usually go wrong with Metalcloak from what I’ve seen in the heep world.

They have nice stuff, I just installed all there rear bars on my 22 badlands and very happy with the quality for sure.

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