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Bronkers

Big Bend
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Good idea using those cardboard angle irons. Do you just lift the top slightly and put them in place before running the strap through?
Exactly, with some padded 2x4 wood spacers to hold it up off the sills (forgot those in original post), and with the front strap having to be laced up and back down over the cage. Keep the strap clean and so far I haven't noticed any paint damage even though it slides over it as you lift.
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subg

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Not sure why you don't get a soft top. I pulled my hardtop off the first day and installed a soft top...
It on the list.

Can you put the hard top back on for winter without removing any hardware from the soft top? The videos don't answer that.

Tnx.
 

Jdyount

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Clubs
 
Not sure why you don't get a soft top. I pulled my hardtop off the first day and installed a soft top...
Because soft tops look terrible up and worse down.


There are def lots of good options for hard top removal. I have a cheap Harbor Freight hoist ($114) that I mounted in my garage.

I use my cordless impact on the factory bolts (on the lowest setting), can have them all out WAY faster than the quick release bolts. I get it, they are pretty, but too expensive IMHO.

I can take all 4 panels off in less than 10 minutes, the hardest part is moving all my crap (and my kids' crap) around in the garage so I can back in.
 

Scopebit

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Roof off twice since March 2022. Comes off at the beginning of summer and goes back on when fall arrives. Resides in the garage all year, and when a roof off road trip occurs, the weather proof vehicle cover comes along just in case it is needed. T handles replaced the bolts and the clam shell hangs from the ceiling with an electric winch from Harbor Freight. The two front panels hang from the garage wall in their specialized bags. The only issue is I really don’t know how well the AC works since during the summer the roof is off. LOL.
Based on the 105 degree oven I drove home in last night, the AC doesn't keep up with the top off. (wife's idea for the AC, not mine.) Pretty simple heat transfer equation...
 

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jaruss01

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Is there a good technique to remove the 4 door clamshell solo? Never done it, but I was thinking one of the better methods would be to park near the grass, open up the glass, sit in the trunk and lift up the top a bit and pull it back a few inches to clear the pins, resting it back down on the metal. Get out of the trunk, then while standing on the ground, lean in under the center of the clamshell arms spread out, lift it up entirely, then drop to your knees on the grass, bringing it to the ground, then escaping from underneath it.
 
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Deucey

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Last Christmas my kids and parents all chipped in for a TopLift Pro (https://topliftpros.com/pages/bronco).
That plus quick release t-bolts (I think they were these: https://www.amazon.com/GPCA-Quick-Release-Easy-Install-Accessories/dp/B09V5QKFT5?) have allowed me to remove the top a dozen times this summer. My lady and I can get all 5 panels off in sub six minutes.
Awesome additions to the bronco adventure!
PS: I did once cut the F out of my armrest when the middle panel started cutting my hand and I dropped it into the cabin.
 

DEC

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20x in, is it still crack free?
 

HeliPilot

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Hey in your pick your back window is shut. Mine stays open. How did you get yours to stay shut?

Thanks
I just lowered it. Nothing special
 

rblock50

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$15 cam straps and 4 of those cardboard corner reinforcements you find in heavy shipping materials. *Feather the trigger* on mini impact with wobbler for the bolts and dont let the anvil strike more than 3-4 times.

Can do comfortably solo in 15-20min. 6'1" in good health and have done about a dozen times with no issues.
20210815_173240.jpg
I like using the sides as the support vs running the straps back through the window. How do you get the top off the truck running the straps in the side-to-side
direction? I wanted to go that way, but it would require my straps to go through the rollbars, and then I can't lift it all the way because the straps are going through each rollbar.
 

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slocobra03

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It on the list.

Can you put the hard top back on for winter without removing any hardware from the soft top? The videos don't answer that.

Tnx.
[/QUOTE
It on the list.

Can you put the hard top back on for winter without removing any hardware from the soft top? The videos don't answer that.

Tnx.
not easily. Need to fully remove softtop and associated hardware before reinstalling the hardtop
 

Gnomad

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I did get impatient the first time and took the top off my 2-door by myself. Not doing that again without the winch system I set up in the garage, using a boat trailer winch and a pulley. Takes me about 20 minutes all by myself and 45 if someone helps.
Pro tip for bald people-slit some pool noodles and place them on the sharp edges. It will save some unneeded scabbage on the noggin.
 

Bronkers

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I like using the sides as the support vs running the straps back through the window. How do you get the top off the truck running the straps in the side-to-side
direction? I wanted to go that way, but it would require my straps to go through the rollbars, and then I can't lift it all the way because the straps are going through each rollbar.
See above reply to @timhood So you're hooking to the undersides somehow? Roof is not designed to 'see' a spreading force like that. Not saying it's not strong enough for it, but given known build 'quality' of inglorious MIC top I'm wary of any kind of undue fatigue inducing eventual fractures.

A 'basket hitch' with the straps cradling the roof all the way across more closely replicates what it 'sees' every day when installed on vehicle.

Exactly, with some padded 2x4 wood spacers to hold it up off the sills (forgot those in original post), and with the front strap having to be laced up and back down over the cage. Keep the strap clean and so far I haven't noticed any paint damage even though it slides over it as you lift.
 

vzqhsg

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Spot on.

1: I’ve got more composite cuts than I’d like to admit

2: I immediately swapped the torx bolts for GPCA Tbolts. During that initial removal, I musta smacked the window a dozen times.

3: Nope. Not even once.

4: Same here! Too many reports of cracked ledges or broken pins
The Choc. Lab still trumps any and all comments in this thread!!
 

Combustion_King

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Was keeping track. Off 20 times, on 19.

Some worthless observations.

1) Mentioned before, beware of sharp edges.

2) Put some rubber hose or tape on the wrench handle. At some point, someone is going to crack a window taking the rear screws on or off. I've made some scary noises not taking my time.

3) Don't try it yourself. I was successful, but now worth the risk. At least the 2 door. Maybe the 4 door is easier/lighter?

4) When you set the rear section on the ground, do not let it rest on the location pins. They are not designed to carry the whole weight. I put mine on some 2x6's.

5) When I take my T's off, I always unlatch the twist ones first, then the big lever. Seems they T's have less movement when you loosen the twist latches. I have a feeling if you release the lever first the T's will flex more. Probably Doesn't matter, but don't want to get a crack in an already compromised product.

6) When I put the T's on, without even trying I can get an imperfect seal on the center line if not careful.

7) Make sure your kids know which order the T's go on. (not gonna mention any names).

8) Chase all 10 threads/weldnuts ASAP if you have a tap. Made things a lot easier going on and off.

I use the top lift pro, and an electric screw driver, with set at torque 9/drill to installing and removing the bolts.

I can get my 2 door top of and in my garage in like 10 min if that, by myself using that setup.
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