Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!

[dangerfoot]

Did you measure db drop?

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[Ft. Worth Rob]

FWIW, I just got around to installing my 200.4 Kicker amp on my non-B&O base system. I’m using 4” Focal ASE speakers in rear and the Focal ASE 165 components up front with speaker baffles on the 6.5’s. Set bass filter to 80Hz and have gains all the way down and sound is clear with volume set at max 30 though the amp kicks out if I keep it at that volume for a minute. I’ll be leaving the gains where they are set. Overall I’m impressed with the sound processing the amp did. Much better sound imaging than stock. Installing 500.1 tomorrow and the SRQ box with 8” square DVC Kicker sub running at 2 ohms in the B&O sub location.

 

[Mc1guil]

May have missed it in the vast amount of info provided but if someone can give me direction I would appreciate it.

Have the PNP harness for the key and hideaway with the optional power from the amp. Blue wire on the amp wiring and blue wire on the hideaway….do i just cap these or do I still need to connect to something else?

Sorry if I overlooked this question.

 

[Ft. Worth Rob]

May have missed it in the vast amount of info provided but if someone can give me direction I would appreciate it.

Have the PNP harness for the key and hideaway with the optional power from the amp. Blue wire on the amp wiring and blue wire on the hideaway….do i just cap these or do I still need to connect to something else?

Sorry if I overlooked this question.

I didn’t need the blue wire for my Kicker Key 200.4 or 500.1. I’m not sure about the hideaway.

 

[carljackson04]

FWIW, I just got around to installing my 200.4 Kicker amp on my non-B&O base system. I’m using 4” Focal ASE speakers in rear and the Focal ASE 165 components up front with speaker baffles on the 6.5’s. Set bass filter to 80Hz and have gains all the way down and sound is clear with volume set at max 30 though the amp kicks out if I keep it at that volume for a minute. I’ll be leaving the gains where they are set. Overall I’m impressed with the sound processing the amp did. Much better sound imaging than stock. Installing 500.1 tomorrow and the SRQ box with 8” square DVC Kicker sub running at 2 ohms in the B&O sub location.

I am curious to see how you like the SRQ box and what it sounds like? I have all the wiring harnesses, kicker key 500 amp, and mountains to metal mounting plate. Just trying to decide on a box. The SRQ seems to be the best option available. I am not willing to compromise any space and would like it to still look oem.

 

[Ft. Worth Rob]

I am curious to see how you like the SRQ box and what it sounds like? I have all the wiring harnesses, kicker key 500 amp, and mountains to metal mounting plate. Just trying to decide on a box. The SRQ seems to be the best option available. I am not willing to compromise any space and would like it to still look oem.

I have the box mounted and should have the sub installed in it this weekend (first sub was a dud) and will report back. They give you the bolt, washers and nuts to fasten it to the truck. I had to run the screw through the front of the box, put a washer then nut on at the backside of the box and tighten (they countersunk the back of the box where the bolt passes through so it sits flat and tight against the wall) then place the bolt through the hole in the truck and reach back around with my left arm with the second washer and nut to tighten with a socket wrench with a short extension to fasten it. Even though it’s only one bolt, it isn’t going anywhere. Otherwise the sub can’t seat into the opening. The bolt head is super close to the subwoofer magnet. I had to detach the park assist module to the left of the box to get my arm back there, which wasn’t a big deal.
I was able to mount the 500.1 on the Mountains 2 Metal plate with a few wire ties after notching the plastic flange on one end of the amp so it would sit flat on the plate. Plenty of room above the glove box for it.

 

[Ft. Worth Rob]

Thanks @Bearcat1 - I have the kit now and will be installing soon - have the same thing. Clips 17ish, which is just a hair quieter than I'd like with the top off at speed.

My 200.4 was cutting out due to the limiter on the amp at 20-23 on the volume dial.

Thanks @Bearcat1 - I have the kit now and will be installing soon - have the same thing. Clips 17ish, which is just a hair quieter than I'd like with the top off at speed.

My 200.4 was cutting out around 20-23 on the volume dial. I thought I had the radio detect button pressed in because it was flush to the amp face. Turns out it wasn’t and sits below the surface when pressed in. My amp isn’t cutting out now that it is pressed in but I guess I’ll know for sure on my 25 minute commute to work tomorrow.

 

[carljackson04]

I have the box mounted and should have the sub installed in it this weekend (first sub was a dud) and will report back. They give you the bolt, washers and nuts to fasten it to the truck. I had to run the screw through the front of the box, put a washer then nut on at the backside of the box and tighten (they countersunk the back of the box where the bolt passes through so it sits flat and tight against the wall) then place the bolt through the hole in the truck and reach back around with my left arm with the second washer and nut to tighten with a socket wrench with a short extension to fasten it. Even though it’s only one bolt, it isn’t going anywhere. Otherwise the sub can’t seat into the opening. The bolt head is super close to the subwoofer magnet. I had to detach the park assist module to the left of the box to get my arm back there, which wasn’t a big deal.
I was able to mount the 500.1 on the Mountains 2 Metal plate with a few wire ties after notching the plastic flange on one end of the amp so it would sit flat on the plate. Plenty of room above the glove box for it.

Thanks for the info. I can’t wait to start working on my system. Just need to pull the trigger on a box I guess.

 

[Nflandrum]

If anyone has a copy of the dash removal instructions 67BroncoG1 was using and could add it to the chat I would appreciate it. Hoping to install my 200.4 tomorrow in just about the same way but I don’t have a smartphone to watch the video while I do it. Thanks.

 

[Barlos]

Yes. The thing to keep in mind here is that typically folks set subwoofer crossovers at 60Hz. So 60Hz and below gets you that bigger BOOM and anything above 60Hz is handled by other speakers in the soundstage.

So that in mind, 6.5" speakers that have a range starting at 65Hz are designed for use WITH subwoofers. This is the problem many folks are running into when they replace the factory kick panel speakers with "good" 6.5" woofers. They are losing low end range because they're designed to be used in conjunction with a subwoofer.

If you don't want to run a subwoofer, you need 6.5" speakers that have a lower range (like the factory speaker) and those typically exist at the lower end of the price scale. There are 6.5" woofers that have a range starting at 35Hz. For example the Polk DB+ 6502 components start at 35Hz (got these for the kick panels) and the Polk DB+ 652 2-way coaxials start at 40Hz (I got those 6.5's for the rear speakers to use in the SSV speaker pods I got).

If you go buy some fancy 6.5" speakers that are better than the run of the mill stuff, you'll see they typically do not service any of the range that is subwoofer territory.

That’s exactly what happened to me. Spent $300 on them fancy 6.5s and lost sound :/ I though I needed more power but now I know. Thank you for the knowledge! I will follow your advise. And yes I am a bass head lol

 

[Barlos]

My 200.4 was cutting out due to the limiter on the amp at 20-23 on the volume dial.

My 200.4 was cutting out around 20-23 on the volume dial. I thought I had the radio detect button pressed in because it was flush to the amp face. Turns out it wasn’t and sits below the surface when pressed in. My amp isn’t cutting out now that it is pressed in but I guess I’ll know for sure on my 25 minute commute to work tomorrow.

Mine does the same at vol 19 it cuts , I have a questions for you guys , are you running power from your harness or straight from the battery ?

 

[Ft. Worth Rob]

Thanks for the info. I can’t wait to start working on my system. Just need to pull the trigger on a box I guess.

I installed the Kicker sub in the SRQ box. I just have the 500.1 at the lowest gain, low pass crossover at 10Hz and high pass at its max (160Hz, I think?) and the bass boost turned off and sub wired to 2ohm and it sounds great. Deep, tight bass more reminiscent of a 10” sub from my experience. I’d definitely recommend the SRQ box.

 

[Mc1guil]

Did the entire install, PNP with power to head unit for kicker key and Hideaway 10. Ran all the wires, dual power to the batter for extra line on the amp and sub and fired up when I switch the power switch to the lower. No sound from front left speakers (dash/kick panel). Turned the vehicle off to check and then back on and now nothing. No power to sub, no power to amp, no blown fuses. Unplugged the PNP Fromm the head unit and returned to stock, minus the upgraded 6 speakers, and works perfect.

Any suggestions??

I grounded the amp power to a ground adjacent from the kick panel speaker and ground the sub to a spot on the inner rear fender behind the plastic trim.

Appreciate the feedback

 

[Ft. Worth Rob]

I installed the Kicker sub in the SRQ box. I just have the 500.1 at the lowest gain, low pass crossover at 10Hz and high pass at its max (160Hz, I think?) and the bass boost turned off and sub wired to 2ohm and it sounds great. Deep, tight bass more reminiscent of a 10” sub from my experience. I’d definitely recommend the SRQ box.

Update. For those who install this box, note that SRQ notched a couple spots on the bottom where some threads protrude from the wheel well to help the box sit lower. Mine wasn’t notched in the correct place. I used a drill bit to burrow out the correct location. I also had to take an orbital sander with 60 grit paper to trim about 1/3” off in the following spots circled in yellow to get the box to sit low enough for the rear trim panel to clear. The rear side trim panel needed the front edge of the box to sit 6” below the bottom of the metal lip that the top rests on as pictured.

Finally, here are some pictures of what I did to prevent rattles.
1. I put adhesive-backed felt over all holes/slots that clips fit into.
2. Where clips mounted to the back of the plastic trim panel, I put cloth tape either around the heads or on the panel.
3. I applied dynamat to all flat surfaces on the back of the panel and in a few spots on the sheet metal.
4. I applied quilt batting to the back of the panel with double-sided tape to prevent any metal on plastic contact.
Not pretty but I have no buzzing or rattles.

 

[Ft. Worth Rob]

Did the entire install, PNP with power to head unit for kicker key and Hideaway 10. Ran all the wires, dual power to the batter for extra line on the amp and sub and fired up when I switch the power switch to the lower. No sound from front left speakers (dash/kick panel). Turned the vehicle off to check and then back on and now nothing. No power to sub, no power to amp, no blown fuses. Unplugged the PNP Fromm the head unit and returned to stock, minus the upgraded 6 speakers, and works perfect.

Any suggestions??

I grounded the amp power to a ground adjacent from the kick panel speaker and ground the sub to a spot on the inner rear fender behind the plastic trim.

Appreciate the feedback

I’d suggest calling Kicker tech support.

I’m not an expert but here are some thoughts.

I’ve never heard of anyone running power for the amp to two locations - off the radio wires and also to the battery. I’d imagine that’s not advisable. Be sure you have an inline 20 amp fuse near the battery for the Kicker 200.4.

Do you have power running to the battery from the hideaway or are you trying to run that off the radio power? The hideaway should be running to the battery with its own separate 15amp fuse. Be sure the DC offset button is set so the sub amp gets its turn on.

Regarding only getting sound out of the left speakers, check your connections on the right speakers. I got a metra pigtail that was missing the female connector. Not sure if you’re having ohm load issues with the Kicker 200.4 not knowing how the mids/highs are set up.

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