Shudder at 75mph?

[AK SNO RIDER]

when i get my bronco, i will check the owner's manual... i have been using 85 ft lbs since i have started driving in 1983. i have never had a failure. if the new specs have changed, cool. i have always used a torque wrench set to 85 -90 foot pounds and never had a failure. also never snapped off a stud because it was overtightened with my pneumatic impact...

I believe you, but, the specs have in fact changed over the years. The Ranger is 100 lbs, as is the Bronco. This is a screenshot from the Bronco owners manual.

Sponsored

 

[Mr. Nice]

I believe you, but, the specs have in fact changed over the years. The Ranger is 100 lbs, as is the Bronco. This is a screenshot from the Bronco owners manual.

There you go 100 ft/lbs not 150ft/lbs.
I could live fine with 85ft/lbs but certainly not 150ft/lbs...

 

[AK SNO RIDER]

Dude, why? That's far under-torqued for most vehicles. Fords, anyway. A Ford ranger is 100 lbs. An F150 is 150lbs. Shoot, my Mustang is 150 +/- 15 lbs as well.

There you go 100 ft/lbs not 150ft/lbs.
I could live fine with 85ft/lbs but certainly not 150ft/lbs...

I never said the Bronco was 150, I just said 85 was too low and that some Fords call for 150. The Bronco, like the Ranger it's partially based on, calls for 100.

 

[SVTLightning]

I was having a bad day and this just saved it.

Happy to help a fellow Bronco enthusiast out!

 

[rdass623]

I never said the Bronco was 150, I just said 85 was too low and that some Fords call for 150. The Bronco, like the Ranger it's partially based on, calls for 100.

how many degrees of turn will it take to apply 100 ft lbs of torque over 85? or what is the difference in degrees of turn between 85 and 150? also do you torque with a wet torque or a dry torque. i always lubricate the threads on my lugs before torqueing. this is a forum, there are many things posted on here which are errant. if you don't like advice, don't use it. considering the six lug hub and the clamping force of 6 m12X1.5 studs, i feel confident when received my wheels will remain connected to my vehicle. as they have with four and five lug applications i have owned in my life. i guess we can agree to disagree. i will just remain to do what has done me right and you can use your best judgement.

 

[SVTLightning]

when i get my bronco, i will check the owner's manual... i have been using 85 ft lbs since i have started driving in 1983. i have never had a failure. if the new specs have changed, cool. i have always used a torque wrench set to 85 -90 foot pounds and never had a failure. also never snapped off a stud because it was overtightened with my pneumatic impact...

Was that on steel wheels? I won’t go under recommended torque spec on mine and very religious about retorquing as well. Only have to have a wheel come loose once and a 1000km trip to instil the importance of proper wheel torque in a guy.

 

[zombie]

That sounds crazy. My Boss calls for 100 ft/lbs..

My 2013 was also 100ft/lbs.

 

[rdass623]

Was that on steel wheels? I won’t go under recommended torque spec on mine and very religious about retorquing as well. Only have to have a wheel come loose once and a 1000km trip to instil the importance of proper wheel torque in a guy.

i have been a mechanic on and off since 1984. eight of those years were as a helicopter mechanic. i am religious with my maintenance. do what your conscience tells you is right... steel or aluminum should not change the required torque and clamping force required to hold the wheels to the hub, but over torqueing will damage aluminum wheels. i also always do wet torque not dry torque where a drag torque is not measured...

 

[jjack50]

I never said the Bronco was 150, I just said 85 was too low and that some Fords call for 150. The Bronco, like the Ranger it's partially based on, calls for 100.

My 2016 F350 calls for 165 lb.ft, so yeah Ford does spec relatively high torque for wheel bolts.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Half your problem could be the absolute trash that are Toyo tires. The other half should be fixable by a good tire shop with a proper balance machine.

Hmmm, First negative comment on Toyo's I have heard. I was looking at the 285/75-17 OC3 also.
Care to share more?
Recommendations?

Here's my testimony:
I had the same thing happen with Generals ... FANTASTIC reviews at Tirerack.... two sets, different models, different cars .... same issue ....SHIT rubber quality after the first year. Absolute shit.
Still have STELLAR reviews online everywhere.
SMH.
Rubber went hard (lol) and wouldn't grip worth a damn if there was any water on the road, like even just damp roads, they also got very noisy and rode like crap.

Happened with 75% tread left and I had to drive those pieces of crap until they were close to used up.
I run summer/winter sets, so it took several more years.
God how I hated those tires.
Now all I hear is folks wanting to get those General Grabbers ... go ahead, test 'em out for me... I'll wait.

Cars and trucks .... BFG's, Michelins and Firestones have all done well for me .... and Bridgestone Blizzaks.

Current beater truck came with Coopers. I think I am currently battling one or more out of round issues.

 

[jasonkosi]

Unless you bend the wheels.

While the 150 ft-lb is widely specd across Ford trucks to me it seems like way too much. I have never owned an impact wrench that would go above 120 and always felt being in the danger zone at 80-90. Are we sure this 150 number that nobody but a college linebacker will be able to duplicate changing wheels in the wild or even doing your own rotations

It’s called a torque wrench. Always did it to 150 ft-lb on my F-150, since it’s what the manufacturer specs in the owners manual.

 

[PSUTE]

Tighten mine until they squawk...

 

[Cheshire]

This is why Sasquatch is best. My Sasquatch at 85 mph is smooth, perfect!

 

[VelocityBronco]

how many degrees of turn will it take to apply 100 ft lbs of torque over 85? or what is the difference in degrees of turn between 85 and 150? also do you torque with a wet torque or a dry torque. i always lubricate the threads on my lugs before torqueing. this is a forum, there are many things posted on here which are errant. if you don't like advice, don't use it. considering the six lug hub and the clamping force of 6 m12X1.5 studs, i feel confident when received my wheels will remain connected to my vehicle. as they have with four and five lug applications i have owned in my life. i guess we can agree to disagree. i will just remain to do what has done me right and you can use your best judgement.

But why would you not follow a manufacturer recommend torque spec? You know better than Ford on what the lug nut torque needs to be so it stays on the vehicle at highway speeds?
If manual says 100, I'm torquing to 100. My F-150 says 150, so I go to 150...
Also, what are you lubing your threads with? Seems like a bad idea, I've never applied lube to wheel lug nut threads.

 

[NC_Pinz]

But why would you not follow a manufacturer recommend torque spec? You know better than Ford on what the lug nut torque needs to be so it stays on the vehicle at highway speeds?
If manual says 100, I'm torquing to 100. My F-150 says 150, so I go to 150...
Also, what are you lubing your threads with? Seems like a bad idea, I've never applied lube to wheel lug nut threads.

When they say lubricate, it means use something like antiseize. Lubricated threads have a more consistent torque level. Unlubricated threads can have an inconsistent torque level due to friction in the threads themselves. I use antisieze because I have it out anyway because I put some between the aluminum wheel and the steel hub.

Edit - and you're spot on. Torque to the level specified by the manufacturer. Silly not to.

Sponsored