SAS Strut bolt question

[Cardboardbronco]

So I bought a set of SAS takeoffs but they had cut the original pressed fit bolts off during removal so they included new hardware. Since these aren’t press fit would I have any issue with the install? It seems to me that they would have some play to slide around the front shock since they aren’t snug like the pressed fit are. Or am I thinking of this wrong.

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[Bschurr]

So I bought a set of SAS takeoffs but they had cut the original pressed fit bolts off during removal so they included new hardware. Since these aren’t press fit would I have any issue with the install? It seems to me that they would have some play to slide around the front shock since they aren’t snug like the pressed fit are. Or am I thinking of this wrong.

It’s pressed so you don’t need an additional wrench for the top of the bolt to remove the nut. The splines do not assist in holding the parts together just for the bolt not to spin during nut installation. (Think lug bolt & nut)

 

[RallyGorgo]

I’m kinda’ glad this came up…

One of the first things I noticed about the Bronco is the nut and end of the bolt sticking down from the lower control arm. Has anyone removed those bolts and replaced them with bolts going in from underneath to get more clearance or to reduce the chances of scraping the bolt when off-roading?

 

[Snacktime]

I welded new bolts in when I took my spacer lift off. Simplest way would be to reuse your Hitachi shocks tops as they are the same part.

 

[Bmadda]

I’m kinda’ glad this came up…

One of the first things I noticed about the Bronco is the nut and end of the bolt sticking down from the lower control arm. Has anyone removed those bolts and replaced them with bolts going in from underneath to get more clearance or to reduce the chances of scraping the bolt when off-roading?

I have mine installed that way. Over 10k miles and quite a bit of trail time, no problems!

 

[dgorsett]

I’m kinda’ glad this came up…

One of the first things I noticed about the Bronco is the nut and end of the bolt sticking down from the lower control arm. Has anyone removed those bolts and replaced them with bolts going in from underneath to get more clearance or to reduce the chances of scraping the bolt when off-roading?

When I did my Bilstein 5100s a year ago I inverted the hardware, so far so good.

 

[Jdimaggio]

Would anyone know the bolt pattern for these or the front top strut bolts?

 

[Damion1day]

Any answer on this? I have the same problem.

 

[GI_Jo_Nathan]

Any answer on this? I have the same problem.

You're needing the spacing for the top studs?

 

[Damion1day]

You're needing the spacing for the top studs?

No, curious if replacement bolts would work. Bought SAS struts, no bolts included.

 

[GI_Jo_Nathan]

No, curious if replacement bolts would work. Bought SAS struts, no bolts included.

Ok gotcha. Just checking since the post above yours was talking about the top or something.

Yep you can definitely use bolts. Some spacer kits like Zone actually come with some to replace the studs. I just had to buy a couple from the hardware store because the threads on one of mine got a little smushed. I've had them in and out a few times. Unfortunately I don't remember the size.

I actually like running the bolts because it makes installing and removing them a little easier. You don't have to drop the LCA's or anything. But they are sill a pain to line up because the bushings are so tight. I also like that the head of the bolt is on the bottom, so less likely to be damaged by rocks.

 

[Y2KFirehawk]

Would anyone know the bolt pattern for these or the front top strut bolts?

This. Anyone know the replacement fastener length and thread? Swapping to HOSS 3.0's (Fox) and would rather press out the studs and do this way.

 

[Damion1day]

Ok gotcha. Just checking since the post above yours was talking about the top or something.

Yep you can definitely use bolts. Some spacer kits like Zone actually come with some to replace the studs. I just had to buy a couple from the hardware store because the threads on one of mine got a little smushed. I've had them in and out a few times. Unfortunately I don't remember the size.

I actually like running the bolts because it makes installing and removing them a little easier. You don't have to drop the LCA's or anything. But they are sill a pain to line up because the bushings are so tight. I also like that the head of the bolt is on the bottom, so less likely to be damaged by rocks.

This is what I wound up doing. Went to ACE and found some bolts that were a very close match and picked up some lock nuts. Worked great. Come to find out, one of the struts had two old pressed bolts in but the threads were jacked up. Took them to O’Reilly and asked them to press them out for me.

 

[Brian_B]

When getting odd and end bolts - make sure you are looking at the bolt classification. Most out of the bin I’ve found are 4.6 or 8.8 rated.

For high stress applications, like suspension and drive train, you probably want at least 10.9 rating

https://www.kenenghardware.com/understanding-bolt-grades-what-you-need-to-know/

 

[Damion1day]

When getting odd and end bolts - make sure you are looking at the bolt classification. Most out of the bin I’ve found are 4.6 or 8.8 rated.

For high stress applications, like suspension and drive train, you probably want at least 10.9 rating

https://www.kenenghardware.com/understanding-bolt-grades-what-you-need-to-know/

Yup, good point. I got the same classification as the stock ones

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