Replace factory subwoofer and amp?

[TBird92651]

After finishing the install of Kicker KS speakers and a Ket 200.4 amp, I am now looking at replacing the stock subwoofer and amp. Since I am going to run power and bass knob wiring, it's a relatively big job.

Before I commit to this, I'd love to know if installing a Key 500.1 amp and 6.75" speaker makes a big difference. I've read differing views and have also seen that it may introduce some rattling and other unexpected problems. Thanks.

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[RagnarKon]

My (perhaps controversial) opinion:

If you are going through the hassle of installing a 500.1, you should at least install an 8" subwoofer. Otherwise I'd consider other upgrades, like 6.5"/6.75" rear pod speakers.

 

[TBird92651]

Makes sense. I also don’t want to deal with modifying the subwoofer enclosure to 8”.

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

Makes sense. I also don’t want to deal with modifying the subwoofer enclosure to 8”.

What sub are you looking at that would fit in the stock enclosure and needs the 500.1?

 

[Brian_B]

The Kicker 6.5 isn't a bad upgrade at all. It's a 150W sub, and the OEM amp is 110W, so it's close... but you don't have much ability to affect the OEM amp - no volume dial, no low pass settings, nothing. So you get kinda stuck with whatever the head unit decides it wants to do.

So even doing the smaller speaker I'd still recommend a new amp.

The 8" Kicker that most people use is a 300W speaker. That's still less than the 500.1 ~could~ drive, but it's a good match, and it takes very little modification at all to get it to fit. That said, if someone doesn't want to do it, the 6.5" version is still a nice upgrade, and you have a nice amp that can drive other things later on (like the Stinger tailgate).

Getting the rear cargo trim piece off is the hardest part of the entire job - if you go to that trouble, yeah, I can absolutely agree with Ragnarkon - you should do the 8" speaker while you are doing it - the cost is only like $20 more, and the hardest part is just in the getting at it. But if you don't want to, it's still very worth while to just do the 6.5" - it will still make some (good) noise.

There are options other than the Kicker that fit the OEM enclosure, but it's not a bad subwoofer for the money and it will get loud enough for most people who aren't trying to rattle the windows at the neighbors.

 

[Chrome_Pony]

@RagnarKon is right. I've had the both: the 6.75" with the factory Ford amp and recently modified the box to fit the 8" and installed a 500.1.

The difference is night and day. Never got anywhere close to the bass I wanted from the 6.75". The 8" diameter has a better response and was definitely worth all the Dremel wheels I busted modifying the stock sub box.

 

[Squatch]

You will notice the amplifier difference more than the difference between a 6.5/6.75" sub vs an 8" of similar construction and quality.

I've had several odd setups that fooled the afficionados into thinking they were a larger subwoofer: 2x 8"; 1x shallow 10"; 2x 10". Unless you're playing specific frequencies and measuring the response with instruments better than your ears, you will not notice.
*if you do it right

...and that's my controversial opinion.

I rarely go against anything @RagnarKon says, so I'm hoping to avoid any wrath or pitchforks.

 

[RagnarKon]

You will notice the amplifier difference more than the difference between a 6.5/6.75" sub vs an 8" of similar construction and quality.

I've had several odd setups that fooled the afficionados into thinking they were a larger subwoofer: 2x 8"; 1x shallow 10"; 2x 10". Unless you're playing specific frequencies and measuring the response with instruments better than your ears, you will not notice.
*if you do it right

...and that's my controversial opinion.

I rarely go against anything @RagnarKon says, so I'm hoping to avoid any wrath or pitchforks.

Hah... no need for pitchforks. I think my opinion is more controversial in this case.

I do honestly think installing an amplifier with a 6.75" sub is a solid upgrade. But for a lot of people tearing all of those trim panels out and running the power wire back for the amp is a lot of work, so if you are going to do that work might as well go with the biggest subwoofer practical.

On the flip side, the rear pods is a relatively simple upgrade, is a cheaper overall, and OP already has an aftermarket amp in place for the speakers.

 

[Squatch]

Hah... no need for pitchforks. I think my opinion is more controversial in this case.

I do honestly think installing an amplifier with a 6.75" sub is a solid upgrade. But for a lot of people tearing all of those trim panels out and running the power wire back for the amp is a lot of work, so if you are going to do that work might as well go with the biggest subwoofer practical.

On the flip side, the rear pods is a relatively simple upgrade, is a cheaper overall, and OP already has an aftermarket amp in place for the speakers.

Absolutely agree the rear 6.5 pods are the easier path for an upgrade. Find some bass-focused 6.5s, though. I have Focals because I know the whole brand is generally a brighter sound, but I wouldn't add them without a subwoofer.

 

[JonB2]

Hi. Just wanted to follow up on the original question a year later. Right now have OEM factory sub and amp in my 2door. I am considering several options:

1. Keep factory amp but replace factory subwoofer with Kicker 6.75"

2. Upgrade amp to Kicker 500.1 with Kicker 6.75"

3. Upgrade amp to Kicker 500.1 with Kicker 8"

I don't listen to music super loud but want something to fill in the bass. Had 8" powered sub under passenger seat of my old 4Runner and that was good for me.

#1 is easiest option but may not sound much better than what I have now.
#2 is doable and being only 6.75" easiest to install with little enclosure modification.
#3 is probably the best sounding option but looks like alot of enclosure modification.

Anybody else struggle with these options and what was the result?
Thanks!

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

You have correctly assessed the situation. IMO you should discard Option (1) and focus on (2) and (3). If you are relatively confident you can make the enclosure mods needed to fit the larger sub then go for Option (3). Good luck.

 

[Brian_B]

Hi. Just wanted to follow up on the original question a year later. Right now have OEM factory sub and amp in my 2door. I am considering several options:

1. Keep factory amp but replace factory subwoofer with Kicker 6.75"

2. Upgrade amp to Kicker 500.1 with Kicker 6.75"

3. Upgrade amp to Kicker 500.1 with Kicker 8"

I don't listen to music super loud but want something to fill in the bass. Had 8" powered sub under passenger seat of my old 4Runner and that was good for me.

#1 is easiest option but may not sound much better than what I have now.
#2 is doable and being only 6.75" easiest to install with little enclosure modification.
#3 is probably the best sounding option but looks like alot of enclosure modification.

Anybody else struggle with these options and what was the result?
Thanks!

I’ve done all 3. Very little modification needed - for #2 it’s just new screw holes. For #3 a dremel or razor blade to open up the hole a bit more (and new holes) — not hard by any means. The hardest part is getting the rear cargo trim off — by far.

I recommend sealing the back port if you do get an external amp - it will sound better

There are also companies that sell replacement enclosures for up to 10” that fit in the factory spot that are reasonably priced. Gearshade comes to mind

 

[swamp2]

Like most said above, maybe not explicitly, do not bother replacing the sub driver without also replacing the sub amp. The factory sub amp is very low power and overall crappy.

Squeezing in the 8" into the factory enclosure isn't too bad if you have some basic tools&skills. I learned and read the threads by a couple of the other fellows here in this thread and added many improvements in my build thread here.

My advice on trimming, fitting and sealing (the port) on the factory enclosure, as well as a fairly easy way to mount the 500.1 should save you a ton of time. All in the link above.

Get after it, you will be happy! Happy 4th!

 

[brkdncr]

I modified the sub box and crammed a CompRT into it and was mostly disappointed for my listening taste, but it was a significant improvement over the stock B&O setup. I went with a Gearshade 3d printed box and a big JL Audio 10” sub i had from another project. It sounds better but now I’m dealing with rattles.

I would suggested either use a drop-in sub and do not modify the box, or just get a gearshade box. If you’re modifying the stock box you’re going to spend a lot of time on it and it’s not going to turn out great no matter what.

 

[Ford Donkey]

Are you guys talking about upgrading the stock 7-speaker system or the B&O system? I have the 7-speaker system and will be looking to upgrade it soon. Is the advice above applicable to me?

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