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PSA Cheap Effective Mod: Tailgate Pin Reinforcement

Umichigan1

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Can anyone clearly state the torque values for these bolts, top to bottom?
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Draughon

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I think you're a bit low...probably closer to 300. ;-)

Based on my experience I'm gonna say the painted bolts are torqued to about 250 ft. lbs.
 
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PWillette

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How did you break the painted T30 bolts loose without stripping them? I completely stripped the top one trying to loosen it. Guess this project is on indefinite hold now...
They were a bitch to break free for sure...a good quality Torx Plus bit on a 1/2" ratchet, lots of presure on the back of the racthet to keep the bit buried and slowly increased the pressure.
 

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Yeah in retrospect if I had known they were on so tight I suppose I could have gotten them loose without stripping them. I was not expecting it to be on so tight and went in ham-fisted. A little heat probably would have went a long way too.
 

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Draughon

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I knew they were stuck so started with an impact wrench... yeah, that was mistake...

Yeah in retrospect if I had known they were on so tight I suppose I could have gotten them loose with stripping them. I was not expecting it to be on so tight and went in ham-fisted. A little heat probably would have went a long way too.
 

Umichigan1

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Something isn't adding up correctly. According to the spec, the torque value on a size 30 torx plus fastener (this is for an M6 bolt) is 418 in/lbs or 35 ft/lbs. The OP and subsequent posters suggest this process (other than ensuring correct location) is relatively easy. Later posters in this thread talk about stripping out the fasteners because they're in so tight. Why the mismatch in description? What do the OPs know that others apparently do not.
 
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PWillette

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I knew they were stuck so started with an impact wrench... yeah, that was mistake...
Yup,
Something isn't adding up correctly. According to the spec, the torque value on a size 30 torx plus fastener (this is for an M6 bolt) is 418 in/lbs or 35 ft/lbs. The OP and subsequent posters suggest this process (other than ensuring correct location) is relatively easy. Later posters in this thread talk about stripping out the fasteners because they're in so tight. Why the mismatch in description? What do the OPs know that others apparently do not.
Mine had a healthy dose of loctite which I'm sure contributed to the stuck factor. If anyone attempted to use a regular torx bit they we're pretty much destined to strip.
 

Brian_B

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Can anyone clearly state the torque values for these bolts, top to bottom?
The factory torque spec is 18 ft lbs for the striker bolts, 17 ft lbs for the latch bolts (above/below striker), and 22 ft lbs for the bump stop post.

Code:
  *       17
*   *   18 / 18
  *       17

  *       22
Source
 

Gluestick

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Welp. I figured you guys were all just bad at using hand tools and this would be a breeze. Had only the middle painted bolt left to loosen and rounded out the head on the first push of the ratchet… it seemed like the paint prevented the bit from seating properly though the top one worked no problem. Had to use the drill and smash a bolt extractor into it… then still a lot of pressure required to turn it. Whoever put those on must’ve had a perfect storm of improperly calibrated tools, loctite, temp variations and galvanic corrosion for it to be so challenging.

not sure the official part number but it’s an M8 dog end. I’ll be replacing that one, right after I have a slice of humble pie.

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jh3113

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For everyone having issues, heat is the answer. I destroyed a crappy T40 bit before I broke out the heat gun. Once I applied heat for 2-3 minutes, they broke free easily.

Also, I am not sure how any of you are getting it off with a TP30. That was way too small for my bolts and had significant play. I used a regular T40 bit and had to rubber mallet it into the bolts to get it to fit, I'm guessing because of the paint. Once it was heated up they broke free. I'm guessing some high temp loctite was used.
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