Missed downshift = Scary situation in traffic 7MT

[Lcubed]

I understand it is something to consider when troubleshooting.



The ECU takes this input and using its own internal programming actually makes the changes to ASS.

the faulty assumption here is that the MY21-24 and MT25+ ECU's are programmed the same way.

if the OP can replicate this behavior at will on his '25, pulling the ASS mod should be pretty definite indicator whether it's interacting properly with the newer ECU

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[Tooold]

I understand it is something to consider when troubleshooting.

However, I do know exactly how it is installed (done it myself ) and what it does. Anyone can research it.

It is a very simple device that uses the same signal as the OEM buttom. All it does is "remember" the last state of the button press - was it last pushed "on" or "off". On startup it "repeats" the last state signal.

The ECU takes this input and using its own internal programming actually makes the changes to ASS.

Trying to think of an analogy so folks will understand: it is a robot that presses the OEM ASS button on startup on the dash so you won't have to do it. Instead of a robot you can see in front of the button, it sits just behind the button and 'pulls' it instead...

Im no expert and may very well be talking out of my Auto Start Stop, but you may be correct if it's a simple SPDT switch. But if the ECU is checking or expecting to always see it in it's default "on" position, it may be throwing it off or going into some sort of protection mode.
If the aftermarket switch is using resistors it also cold be screwing with the ECM.
Remember there's the signal sender and the signal reader in your explanation.
But I hear what you are saying.

 

[crenca]

the faulty assumption here is that the MY21-24 and MT25+ ECU's are programmed the same way.

if the OP can replicate this behavior at will on his '25, pulling the ASS mod should be pretty definite indicator whether it's interacting properly with the newer ECU

I don't make that assumption. However the truth or falsehood of that assumption is irrelevant.

Pulling the ASS mod would make no difference, any more then turning off and on the OEM button itself would.

Now, it is in the realm of possibility that the ECU's programming itself is behaving differently depending on ASS state at around idle rpm's just after a bog (i.e a forcing the engine down to 200, 300 rpm - the OP's situation). However whether the Autostop Eliminator is in the signal chain or not would not effect that. Anyone, whether they have an Autostop Eliminator or not, can test that.

That said it is not very likely that the ECU"s ASS programming is the source of this trouble...up there with, I don't know, the possibility that a rotation of your tires (assuming they are all the same size) could cause it...

Im no expert and may very well be talking out of my Auto Start Stop, but you may be correct if it's a simple SPDT switch. But if the ECU is checking or expecting to always see it in it's default "on" position, it may be throwing it off or going into some sort of protection mode.
If the aftermarket switch is using resistors it also cold be screwing with the ECM.
Remember there's the signal sender and the signal reader in your explanation.
But I hear what you are saying.

Well, the device is an emulator of the very simple OEM component. For example when you press the OEM ASS off button, you get a pop up message (from the engine control module) on your screen. With the Autostop Eliminator installed, and if the last state is "off" - and it always is, who installs and and then allows ASS to remain on? - you get that pop up message as soon as you start your vehical. If you press the OEM button to re-engage ASS, you get another pop up message.

I suppose if the ECU was polling the Autostop Eliminator and it was not correctly "emulating", then you would get these messages...

Look, this mod is very very likely not the source of the trouble - it simply is not capable of causing the ECU to behave this way directly, and even indirectly it is not very likely at all...

 

[EvilJim1971]

Our 25 Heritage is designed not to run below 1000rpm. I can start off in first or second with clutch only/no gas and the engine will auto rev to 1400 to start off. However if I idle it in first at 1000rpm and lightly step on the brake the engine will instantly die. Sometimes I’ll select second when barely moving with the intention of accelerating away in second and the engine will shut down if it drops below 1000. 1000rpm is a high idle for a typical manual. I’m getting used to it but engine shutdown just as I pull into traffic is not fun. Auto restarts when I push the clutch even with auto restart selected off.

I just tried this in my 23 Heritage, was able to use the brakes and lug it down to 600 RPM in first and second.

 

[bastardsonofelvis]

I can't drive stick, is that something I should feel bad about?

Yes. 100%. Even though initially it may not have been your fault (not everyone is lucky enough to have a father) you’ve had enough time to correct the deficiency.

 

[GI_Jo_Nathan]

Our 25 Heritage is designed not to run below 1000rpm. I can start off in first or second with clutch only/no gas and the engine will auto rev to 1400 to start off. However if I idle it in first at 1000rpm and lightly step on the brake the engine will instantly die. Sometimes I’ll select second when barely moving with the intention of accelerating away in second and the engine will shut down if it drops below 1000. 1000rpm is a high idle for a typical manual. I’m getting used to it but engine shutdown just as I pull into traffic is not fun. Auto restarts when I push the clutch even with auto restart selected off.

Yeah literally none of that sounds right, or safe. I personally would bring it in to get it checked out. I'm not saying the typical dealer will know how or what or care to do anything about it. But I would document that crap. Worst case I would drive another 2025 and see if it's the exact same.

 

[BroncoDymond88]

Yes. 100%. Even though initially it may not have been your fault (not everyone is lucky enough to have a father) you’ve had enough time to correct the deficiency.

I inherited my dad’s car when I became old enough to drive, which at that point was already 15 years old. It too was automatic because it was using ‘40s tech in the 90s

I’m just being belligerent guys, don’t take me seriously. Hope everyone had a laugh.

 

[DALOLA]

Hopefully, OP will report back if he's able to replicate.... it sure seems like some kind of defect, or problem, and not normal behavior. I hope.

 

[Dral97]

Yes, yes it is.
A person should be able to do most things they are physically able to do
Sew repairs on clothes, do general maintenance and repairs on vehicles, cook a meal, ride a bicycle and motorcycle, track an animal, understand and practice firearms safety, mix a drink, navigate with a map and compass.

I was listening to an NPR segment on teachers talking about what today's students either cannot do or are not good at. One of the teachers commented that "I see kids in my class (this is middle school/high school) wearing crocs all the time because they don't know how to tie shoes".

That blew me away. We're doomed as a society. Tying shows is a kindergarten struggle, not a 10th grade struggle.

For manuals, is it necessary to know how to drive one? no. They are becoming increasing rare.

However, they are still around and will be for a long time. I look at it this way: I have a good friend who insists on driving a manual. If I'm ever in the car with them driving and something happens where I need to drive, what happens when I can't drive a manual? I agree that if it's something I can physically do and it's not that difficult to learn, I should do it. I've never learned to ride a motorcycle. Not a necessity, but it's something I've been meaning to do for a few years now. I just have to get off my ass and do it.

 

[Bio86250]

Not to derail the topic by judging your driving habits, but I don’t understand why you wouldn't take it to the dealer to have them check the backend for error codes. I mean, sure, ask if anyone else has the same issue and collect data points, but that doesn’t change whether or not your Bronco actually has a problem.

 

[Akwagon]

 

[Akwagon]

 

[Akwagon]

Here you guys go.... One with the ass eliminator another without.. Seems to be its trying to do the auto restart after a "stall" and keeps the throttle disengaged until a full stop

 

[crenca]

Here you guys go.... One with the ass eliminator another without.. Seems to be its trying to do the auto restart after a "stall" and keeps the throttle disengaged until a full stop

Ok, am I interpreting the sequence right:

1) You let out clutch at a slow speed in a high gear, pulling rpm's down below idle and the engine "stalls" - you can't hear combustion
2) You quickly put in low gear and let out clutch, so rpm's are quickly pulled higher (around 2k) but engine is still not receiving spark and/or fuel and thus not combusting.
3) Your stomping on the throttle, but again just the momentum of the bronco (with clutch out, engaging engine) is keeping rpm's up - the engine is not combusting, probably because of no spark and/or no fuel injecting.

Is that right?

 

[Akwagon]

Ok, am I interpreting the sequence right:

1) You let out clutch at a slow speed in a high gear, pulling rpm's down below idle and the engine "stalls" - you can't hear combustion
2) You quickly put in low gear and let out clutch, so rpm's are quickly pulled higher (around 2k) but engine is still not receiving spark and/or fuel and thus not combusting.
3) Your stomping on the throttle, but again just the momentum of the bronco (with clutch out, engaging engine) is keeping rpm's up - the engine is not combusting, probably because of no spark and/or no fuel injecting.

Is that right?

Engine is combusting fine and sounds normal for associated rpm’s.
It’s that the throttle is “dead”.

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