MIC 2.0 Repair- is it possible?

[Nc211]

something definitely hit that top hard, and skidded across it a bit too. I see the red paint marking as well. I absolutely think you need to return to the carwash and discuss with the owner (assuming it was the carwash). There is clearly something wrong with their machine to be hitting a car that friggin' hard to rip a piece of the top off like that. Willing to bet if you looked at their machine close enough, you'll find something red on it too that matches the red on your top. I would look at the guide wheels of the machine, as that looks like a stuck guide wheel slammed into it and was dragged a few inches until the machine lifted off the top of the car.

I think you're in for some of that waterproof black tape to cover this up. Whatever that seal stuff is called. Or just a new top in general unfortunately. Water is going to get in there eventually, as it will flow over that spot whenever you're moving in the rain.

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[Rick U]

Look into alternatives to regular epoxy. For instance, bumper repair kits are designed for polyethylene and thermoplastic bumpers.. Around here they even have mobile bumper repair guys.

 

[Bruno]

take one panel to an automotive paint house that also makes rattle cans.
get them to color match and
make you a can. Buy the correct primer from them too.
clean it, epoxy fiberglass boat fix something like that. do a decent job, use some spot filler in the end.
paint the area with that color match paint.

 

[Fly by Nite]

I just ordered some. I’ll report back. This looks like the best option short of replacing top which I really don’t want to do.
We’ll see how well I can do mixing colors

That's worth a try. I too would use an epoxy (or JB Weld). Work it into the hole as much as you can. When I do JB Weld repairs, I often put a piece of masking tape over it, then shape it/smooth it out with a straight edge & let it cure. When it's cured, the masking tape will peel right off and leave a slight texture on the surface. That'll save you from needing to sand it flat.

If you have a boat repair facility near you, they may be able to do the repair as they're familiar with using epoxies.

 

[UncleBrad]

Unsure if it would hold or not, but Bondo may be an option as well.

Wouldn't recommend Bondo. The shock/vibration and flex may knock it out. Just to stabilize the patient, you could try to buff out most the scrape, mask off the hole (maybe a 1/2" all around it) and use a few light coats of black Flex Seal in it. That will keep the rain out, seal it off, and it will look a lot better. Plus, it's reversible. I agree that with the previous statements that an interior specialist may have some good ideas, and those boat guys really know their epoxy solutions.

 

[Phil B]

Accidents are very common at carwashes, not just to vehicles, but to their employees as well. Odd's are good they have cameras. Ask about video to prove they DIDN"T cause the damage.

 

[Mr Bacon Jr]

I’m about 99.9% sure it happened at the car wash. I was in and out of the back a lot yesterday, and when I got home from fishing I hand washed the glass. Every time I wash the windows I wipe down the seal on the rear lift glass. There’s no way I would have been able to miss it.
Got home from the car wash and grabbed a towel and blower to wipe down the excess water and BAM!!!!! There it is. But can I prove it happened there? Not without a video or matching the damage to the arm of one of their equipment pieces. I had to hit the road to travel for a wedding or I would have gone back to talk to them.
Insurance- maybe it’s worth it. I’ve never submit a claim so I guess it can’t hurt, just won’t have time to deal with that until next week when I’m back.

It would be a no-fault claim, so it would not affect your rates. If it happened at the car wash, there is almost assuredly already water in the top cavity. Get it replaced.

 

[Bill K]

I would try Marine Tex marine epoxy. This stuff hardens and seals well (wear gloves and don't get it on your fingers). Maybe put a backer in there like fiberglass sheets or dry wall tape so the stuff doesn't go everywhere... Believe you can get it in grey, but it won't match.

 

[2023bronco]

I would try Marine Tex marine epoxy. This stuff hardens and seals well (wear gloves and don't get it on your fingers). Maybe put a backer in there like fiberglass sheets or dry wall tape so the stuff doesn't go everywhere... Believe you can get it in grey, but it won't match.

This is a C10 console I restored myself using marine tex to save some money. The white areas were missing or damaged. I had a professional color match it to match the rest of the interior. The exterior grain does not match, but the repaired areas aren't visible.

Marine tex should work fine to repair/seal that MIC top, but doing it DIY using marine tex, it will be impossible to match the MIC top's texture. That could be good enough for OP though.

 

[JTK37]

Trying to match the color proved to be quite difficult. This is too light, but at least it should seal. After it set up over night I can go back and sand. If I can match the contours pretty closely I’ll be happy.

Might come back over it with some carbonized grey spray

 

[Rick U]

What did you end up using for the repair?

 

[JTK37]

What did you end up using for the repair?

I went with this one

This is what I would do:
First, it's on the top of your rig so it isn't something you're gonna see all of the time, so I wouldn't worry about spending a thousand dollars fixing it. Get a magic eraser or something and clean up the scuffs. Get a marine epoxy repair kit and fill the hole to seal it. They make it to color match boats. Move on and live life.

https://www.amazon.com/underthecloud-Fiberglass-Repair-Marine-Waterproof/dp/B0FH5N8KS3/ref=sr_1_14_sspa?crid=U40NC74X3NEV&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Wk9SKniR45ZX-2sELh4OudgUOD9nofUtd_03CFr3ShOfRQZD9sjRQCCxagViUBENghdiXaHhzvUieBfzpdOKvk886H09d9hZ2er555MAvj7G4kPqUIUwgbp3YMWWu-aRiVr9YJtLYOuCscajy7Gumtyk-cCnbZaxR7-XwOQR0XyEEINIDPu_Tvr424WDQvaWgW-13IqNRwLplZLXjCPp8bxe1JB1kCrHwbn5u0dVx2WU6ipCrLLbHZPHDG1VVu2WKgFeMCHL11WO6PdqWN4a6RvCVVa-xxVeZBTAGx8sHrw.Fb_DHJq36swj1N0bUXHHN1uzep1KOhypJANfp1u2V3A&dib_tag=se&keywords=marine+epoxy+repair+kit&qid=1756476411&sprefix=marine+epoxy+repair+kit,aps,112&sr=8-14-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1

 

[Fordified1]

Trying to match the color proved to be quite difficult. This is too light, but at least it should seal. After it set up over night I can go back and sand. If I can match the contours pretty closely I’ll be happy.

Might come back over it with some carbonized grey spray

Color isn’t too bad. Hopefully it will sand down well.
Here’s a thought. With enough lift (tires/ lift kit) only really tall people will be able to see it.

 

[JTK37]

After sanding, and considering how heart broken I was(and I’ve never done any “body work”), it came out about as good as I could have hoped.

Color is just about perfect when wet. A little light when dry. Still needs some more sanding but I’m exhausted.

Huge thanks to @Jdyount, used his suggestion for the materials and it went well. I may have to come back with some paint, but for now it’s sealed up. Spending more time looking at it yesterday I’m hopeful the damage wasn’t quite deep enough to let moisture soak through. It seemed that the gouge didn’t penetrate the back of the exterior layer. Fingers crossed

 

[BroncoChallenger]

Touchless car washes should be ok, and is the only kind of car wash I use.

While I generally agree that touchless washes are better because you don't know how much rock, dirt, and debris went through a touch car wash before you (and because one knocked the radar out of position on the wife's Expedition), I don't agree when it comes to the Bronco. Ours went through a touchless ONE time before I found out that the MIC top isn't supposed to go through one AT ALL. Heck I don't even use high-pressure from the power washer at home, I stand way back so it's just getting wet and if there's something on it I scrub it off. I DO apply a quality spray-on wax though, and that seems to be fine.

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