Lubricate shield bolts

[Nc211]

Was changing the oil this past weekend, at 15k (I do it every 5k). When removing the engine cover underneath, I noticed how difficult the three main bolts along the frame cross member had become to remove. Initially I was worried that I had cross threaded them while reinstalling them during the last oil change, but realized the odds of that for all of them was 0%. The cause was steel on steel and flash rust. The threads were seizing onto themselves.

My advice ($.02 worth before tax), next time you change the oil or have it changed, put a little grease on the bolt threads when reinstalling them. I had some brake slider pin grease handy, rubbed some on the threads, and they reinstalled very smoothly. Should prevent the bolts from seizing up for the next time. Also reduces the risk of a cross threaded bolt, which is a royal pain in the butt.

No real off-roading in mine this cycle, other than the wet open field here and there, otherwise just road surface.

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[Techun]

What if I drop them all in my oil catch tray

 

[raptorusmaximus]

What if I drop them all in my oil catch tray

along with the filler plug.....

 

[JBlanco]

Great advice, I'm about to do it's 4th oil change at 10,500 miles and I usually change it through the top without the need to remove the steel shields. I'll get those bolts lubed up.

 

[DALOLA]

As a *general * (not torque critical) rule-of-thumb, any bolt I ever remove from a vehicle gets a dab of never-seize before it goes back on.

 

[Nc211]

What if I drop them all in my oil catch tray

Should be fine, just some type of lubricant for the threads is really all you need. I had the slider pin grease handy and used that.

This is also a reason why I prefer to do my own work on stuff like this when I have the time. I have little doubt a shop would have just put the pneumatic wrench to the bolts and moved on to the next car. Not saying this is a do or die suggestion, but brought back some memories from an 05’ 4Runner we used to have and encountered cross threaded bolt under there.

 

[Y2KFirehawk]

Great advice, I'm about to do it's 4th oil change at 10,500 miles and I usually change it through the top without the need to remove the steel shields. I'll get those bolts lubed up.

I truly hope this fad does not catch on widely. This way of oil change does not empty the most important part, being the bottom of the pan and perhaps particles floating on top. Maybe doing it once every now and then but not normal practice.

 

[Poppavein]

Good advice.
I installed the Fumoto and didn’t have to drop the shield on my last oil change.
https://a.co/d/9uuXm0R

 

[broncobase1]

Was changing the oil this past weekend, at 15k (I do it every 5k). When removing the engine cover underneath, I noticed how difficult the three main bolts along the frame cross member had become to remove. Initially I was worried that I had cross threaded them while reinstalling them during the last oil change, but realized the odds of that for all of them was 0%. The cause was steel on steel and flash rust. The threads were seizing onto themselves.

My advice ($.02 worth before tax), next time you change the oil or have it changed, put a little grease on the bolt threads when reinstalling them. I had some brake slider pin grease handy, rubbed some on the threads, and they reinstalled very smoothly. Should prevent the bolts from seizing up for the next time. Also reduces the risk of a cross threaded bolt, which is a royal pain in the butt.

No real off-roading in mine this cycle, other than the wet open field here and there, otherwise just road surface.

I didn't have any rust but the bolts still required torque to back out. Nothing extreme I think its just a slight difference in the threads.

 

[broncobase1]

I truly hope this fad does not catch on widely. This way of oil change does not empty the most important part, being the bottom of the pan and perhaps particles floating on top. Maybe doing it once every now and then but not normal practice.

Its probably okay if you change the oil every 2500 miles, just do a real drain every 10K. That said it only takes a few seconds to remove the plate, and you still have to do the oil filter from the bottom. Not worth it.

 

[wjtinfwb]

Was changing the oil this past weekend, at 15k (I do it every 5k). When removing the engine cover underneath, I noticed how difficult the three main bolts along the frame cross member had become to remove. Initially I was worried that I had cross threaded them while reinstalling them during the last oil change, but realized the odds of that for all of them was 0%. The cause was steel on steel and flash rust. The threads were seizing onto themselves.

My advice ($.02 worth before tax), next time you change the oil or have it changed, put a little grease on the bolt threads when reinstalling them. I had some brake slider pin grease handy, rubbed some on the threads, and they reinstalled very smoothly. Should prevent the bolts from seizing up for the next time. Also reduces the risk of a cross threaded bolt, which is a royal pain in the butt.

No real off-roading in mine this cycle, other than the wet open field here and there, otherwise just road surface.

Pick up a small tube of Permatex Anti-Seize next time you're at the auto parts store. It's less than 4 bucks and will prevent he corrosion that happens when steel bolts are threaded into aluminum or similar metallic events. I also sue just a smidge on spark plug threads as the steel plus threaded into aluminum heads can become a problem to extract after being in for years.

 

[WarthogJr]

And what if I now only have 3 of the 4 bolts holding the skid plate on my ‘21 Black Diamond? @Ducati1098 - what part number are these bolts?

 

[Ducati1098]

And what if I now only have 3 of the 4 bolts holding the skid plate on my ‘21 Black Diamond? @Ducati1098 - what part number are these bolts?

W717376-S439B

 

[WarthogJr]

W717376-S439B

Thank you sir!

 

[Y2KFirehawk]

Good advice.
I installed the Fumoto and didn’t have to drop the shield on my last oil change.
https://a.co/d/9uuXm0R

Hmm! I wasn't aware that Fumoto had a workable solution for the plastic 2.7L pan. Thanks.

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