Help!!! Kings made my steering wonky.

[AccuTune Offroad]

That is wild.

There are two methods of removing and installing shocks on these.

Method A. Remove tie rod from knuckle, remove sway bar end link from knuckle, remove upper control arm from knuckle, Remove axle nut, push out the CV stubs, then the top nuts of the strut, and then pressure down on the lower control arm to wrestle the strut out.

You absolutely have to remove the CV axle nut and put it out of the hub to prevent damage to the CV if you do method A.

Method B. Remove the lower control arm to the frame.

I prefer to do A, since it doesn't completely jack up the alignment.

Sounds like your guy just brute forced it, which DOES NOT WORK. I bet you have a separated CV joint.

Air hammer was used to push out the lower shock bolts that are pressed into bar pin. This allows you to remove the shock in a more efficient way.

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[K9handler47]

Wait so they drove it and gave it back to you?

Correct

 

[K9handler47]

I was thinking about your problem on the way home from work yesterday, so decided to test something out.

I shifted into 4H on dry pavement at a very slow speed and accelerated several times like you mentioned in your post. There was absolutely no torque steer, BUT the rear squatted a LOT and the front lifted A LOT; way more than in 2H.

That made me wonder how your rear shocks are set up? In theory, if your rears are set to full-soft on the preload, and the clickers are way off (like the front was), I can see how it might affect straight-line tracking under heavy acceleration on dry pavement, particularly if your alignment isn't perfect.

Try this: Note your current rear clicker settings, then set them to full-hard on both sides and drive it again. Don't do anything to the front clickers.

I’ll give this a try, thank you. If this helps what do you think the cause or next step would be?

 

[K9handler47]

Thanks for tagging us in, sorry for the delay. I had some time to go through the comments and get a better understanding of whats gong on. I totally understand the frustration and wanting answers. I wish we had answers and an easy solution.

I agree with others that the shocks are likely not the issue. There were some assumptions that the shocks may not be set up for vehicle correctly, which is also not the case. Different preload settings on vehicles is totally normal and often times required to get the vehicle to sit level. Compression adjuster settings would not cause the vehicle to pull to one side like described. Those adjusters are for fine tune adjustments. Driving in 4wd on the street however, will definitely do some weird stuff. I personally have never driven a 21+ Bronco on the street in 4wd to compare to my other experiences.

I'm not sure what could cause this issue the OP has. If we had experience with this issue, our sales team would be trained and ready to help if the topic popped up. Fortunately, we've not encountered this issue before so we have zero experience diagnosing it. We are always happy to help and go above and beyond to help customers (or non-customers) with suspension issues. This is an oddball situation and doesn't seem to be a common problem others have encountered. I sincerely hope a solution is found without too much more of a headache.

Thanks for replying. Like I explained, I was driving in sport mode on my wildtrak as I always have done. Now when I put the car in sport mode it tries to hurl me into oncoming traffic. I’m a single dad with a young daughter I’m sure you can understand the concern.

I’ll just drive in 2H for now and lose sport mode.

 

[BAUS67]

That is wild.

There are two methods of removing and installing shocks on these.

Method A. Remove tie rod from knuckle, remove sway bar end link from knuckle, remove upper control arm from knuckle, Remove axle nut, push out the CV stubs, then the top nuts of the strut, and then pressure down on the lower control arm to wrestle the strut out.

You absolutely have to remove the CV axle nut and put it out of the hub to prevent damage to the CV if you do method A.

Method B. Remove the lower control arm to the frame.

I prefer to do A, since it doesn't completely jack up the alignment.

Sounds like your guy just brute forced it, which DOES NOT WORK. I bet you have a separated CV joint.

It does not jack up the alignment too bad, just mark a line on the cams that goes onto the crossmember. Then when reinstalling line up the marks and you should be close enough to drive to the alignment shop.

Agree the "brute force" method does not work as it pulls the CV apart, I've seen others do it.

 

[K9handler47]

That is wild.

There are two methods of removing and installing shocks on these.

Method A. Remove tie rod from knuckle, remove sway bar end link from knuckle, remove upper control arm from knuckle, Remove axle nut, push out the CV stubs, then the top nuts of the strut, and then pressure down on the lower control arm to wrestle the strut out.

You absolutely have to remove the CV axle nut and put it out of the hub to prevent damage to the CV if you do method A.

Method B. Remove the lower control arm to the frame.

I prefer to do A, since it doesn't completely jack up the alignment.

Sounds like your guy just brute forced it, which DOES NOT WORK. I bet you have a separated CV joint.

Thank you very much for taking the time to put this together and help me better understand. I truly appreciate it.

 

[BAUS67]

Thanks for replying. Like I explained, I was driving in sport mode on my wildtrak as I always have done. Now when I put the car in sport mode it tries to hurl me into oncoming traffic. I’m a single dad with a young daughter I’m sure you can understand the concern.

I’ll just drive in 2H for now and lose sport mode.

You can still use sport mode you just need to switch it to 2WD. That is what I do.

 

[K9handler47]

Thanks for tagging us in, sorry for the delay. I had some time to go through the comments and get a better understanding of whats gong on. I totally understand the frustration and wanting answers. I wish we had answers and an easy solution.

I agree with others that the shocks are likely not the issue. There were some assumptions that the shocks may not be set up for vehicle correctly, which is also not the case. Different preload settings on vehicles is totally normal and often times required to get the vehicle to sit level. Compression adjuster settings would not cause the vehicle to pull to one side like described. Those adjusters are for fine tune adjustments. Driving in 4wd on the street however, will definitely do some weird stuff. I personally have never driven a 21+ Bronco on the street in 4wd to compare to my other experiences.

I'm not sure what could cause this issue the OP has. If we had experience with this issue, our sales team would be trained and ready to help if the topic popped up. Fortunately, we've not encountered this issue before so we have zero experience diagnosing it. We are always happy to help and go above and beyond to help customers (or non-customers) with suspension issues. This is an oddball situation and doesn't seem to be a common problem others have encountered. I sincerely hope a solution is found without too much more of a headache.

I’d like to clarify that I’m not throwing the car into 4H or 4L and driving the car around the street in manners that it wasn’t intended. I am simply driving it in sport mode which activates 4A.

 

[K9handler47]

You can still use sport mode you just need to switch it to 2WD. That is what I do.

I actually wasn’t even aware you could do that. Thank you. Mine automatically turns on the 4A.

 

[BAUS67]

I actually wasn’t even aware you could do that. Thank you. Mine automatically turns on the 4A.

Yepper, just push where it has the 2H and it will switch to 2WD. Should get a notification on the screen that it is switching out of 4WD.

 

[Aonarch]

Air hammer was used to push out the lower shock bolts that are pressed into bar pin. This allows you to remove the shock in a more efficient way.

Earlier it was said that they did not remove the CV stubs.

 

[BroncoBoy22]

Well shoot… the worst part is I’ll have to drive 2.5 hours to confirm and then probably another trip to have them replace it after it’s ordered. I hope my car doesn’t blow up. This blows.

everyone’s help and input has been amazing.

Anyone know any Orange County ca shops that could help so I don’t need to go to Chula Vista several more times?

APG off road is in Garden Grove 1 block away from the Kings shock factory. They should definitely be able to help they specialize in Broncos

 

[K9handler47]

APG off road is in Garden Grove 1 block away from the Kings shock factory. They should definitely be able to help they specialize in Broncos

Ahh this is perfect! Thank you!

 

[BroncoBoy22]

Ahh this is perfect! Thank you!

No problem man! Owner’s name is George. Tell him Jason who got his hard top painted sent you

 

[K9handler47]

Thanks

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