Electric wiring question

[ejaffe]

I am installing ditch lights and I will be connecting (2) 14 ga wires to the (1) 16 ga wire provided as part of the up fitter kit. What did you use to make that connection?

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[RagnarKon]

Butt connectors would probably work. Preferably the ones with heat-shrink so you can weather-proof them a bit.

That said... if you are running 2x 14-gauge wires from a single 16-gauge wire, that implies you're gonna be pulling too much current from that single 16-gauge wire. I obviously don't know what's at the other end of that 14-gauge wire, but I'd definitely check that first. You may have to add a relay.

 

[CalvinT]

I am installing ditch lights and I will be connecting (2) 14 ga wires to the (1) 16 ga wire provided as part of the up fitter kit. What did you use to make that connection?

Several companies make 2 into 1 crimp connectors or step-down connectors. You can put two 14 gauge wires at one and and the 16 gauge at the other.

I bought from Del City. They have good phone support.

https://www.delcity.net/store/terminals/sealed-connectors/heat-shrink-2-1-butt-connectors/

https://www.delcity.net/store/terminals/butt-connectors/heat-shrink/clear-view-crimp-step-down/

They carry others. I bought Molex.

Like RagnarKon said, check your current draw or you risk performing a "smoke test."

 

[WarthogJr]

Strip back some insulation on each wire. Twist the wires together 1 or 2 turns. That’s plenty of physical connection because there will never be any vehicle vibration. For protection, wrap it once with scotch tape or masking tape. Neither heat nor moisture have a chance at getting through this combo. Keep a fire extinguisher close by just in case.

 

[ejaffe]

Butt connectors would probably work. Preferably the ones with heat-shrink so you can weather-proof them a bit.

That said... if you are running 2x 14-gauge wires from a single 16-gauge wire, that implies you're gonna be pulling too much current from that single 16-gauge wire. I obviously don't know what's at the other end of that 14-gauge wire, but I'd definitely check that first. You may have to add a relay.

You would think but the lights are 40 watts, only draw less than 4 amps each. I don’t know why the wires are 14g

 

[Brian_B]

Don't tell anyone, but I use wagos all over the place for things like this if it's in a spot that isn't too exposed. Just wrap them in tape to keep the levers locked. Alternatively, I would solder them and heatshrink over it - not far off from what @WarthogJr jokes about.

The best answer is from @CalvinT

 

[DALOLA]

I'm also old-school, and like solder with heat shrink tubing. Butt connectors are quick & easy, if crimped properly.

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

Don't tell anyone, but I use wagos all over the place for things like this if it's in a spot that isn't too exposed. Just wrap them in tape to keep the levers locked. Alternatively, I would solder them and heatshrink over it - not far off from what @WarthogJr jokes about.

The best answer is from @CalvinT

BAD Bronco Owner. NO DONUT!

Wagos are not for automotive use...

 

[CalvinT]

I don’t know why the wires are 14g

Probably because they use 14 gauge wire for their larger, higher wattage lights. It keeps their inventory simple.

 

[RagnarKon]

Don't tell anyone, but I use wagos all over the place for things like this if it's in a spot that isn't too exposed.

Sweet, now I have a permission slip!!

In all seriousness though... back in 2021 (?) WAGO released the 221 inline series, which is rated for both solid and stranded wire. I'll admit I have probably a half dozen of them in my Bronco because I ran out of butt splice joints awhile back and spent a good 3 years being too lazy to order more.

Never tried them in the engine bay though. But they do have those one water resistant ones that are encased in those grey gel packs.

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

Sweet, now I have a permission slip!!

In all seriousness though... back in 2021 (?) WAGO released the 221 inline series, which is rated for both solid and stranded wire. I'll admit I have probably a half dozen of them in my Bronco because I ran out of butt splice joints awhile back and spent a good 3 years being too lazy to order more.

Never tried them in the engine bay though. But they do have those one water resistant ones that are encased in those grey gel packs.

Bad idea.... vehicles shake and vibrate. They also get water inside. Wagos are not supposed to be used in automotive applications. Same with wire nuts (yes we've had people bring vehicles in with wire nuts).

You want to use weatherproof wire connectors that are heat shrinkable. They shrink and melt and provide a waterproof layer over the wires. Perfect for automotive use.

You can also solder if you want to be old school BUT you need to also wrap your connection in a waterproof membrane (heat shrink for example). Otherwise water will corrode the wires and that corrosion will make it's way THROUGH the wire.

 

[RagnarKon]

Bad idea.... vehicles shake and vibrate. They also get water inside. Wagos are not supposed to be used in automotive applications. Same with wire nuts (yes we've had people bring vehicles in with wire nuts).

You want to use weatherproof wire connectors that are heat shrinkable. They shrink and melt and provide a waterproof layer over the wires. Perfect for automotive use.

You can also solder if you want to be old school BUT you need to also wrap your connection in a waterproof membrane (heat shrink for example). Otherwise water will corrode the wires and that corrosion will make it's way THROUGH the wire.

Shucks, reasoning and logic has arrived to ruin my MacGyver party.

I wouldn't use the original solid wire Wagos, or the push-wire friction-connect Wagos, and I absolutely would never use the wire nuts—blown away anyone would even consider using wire nuts.

But the lever-lock Wagos are used in HVAC and RV applications due in large part to the vibrations. Granted, never seriously considered using them in the engine bay until I read @Brian_B's post, that got the wheels turning in my head for a bit.

But... you're probably right.

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

Shucks, reasoning and logic has arrived to ruin my MacGyver party.

I wouldn't use the original solid wire Wagos, or the push-wire friction-connect Wagos, and I absolutely would never use the wire nuts—blown away anyone would even consider using wire nuts.

But the lever-lock Wagos are used in HVAC and RV applications due in large part to the vibrations. Granted, never seriously considered using them in the engine bay until I read @Brian_B's post, that got the wheels turning in my head for a bit.

But... you're probably right.

3 words I never hear my wife say

 

[ejaffe]

Thank you all. The way the harness was built, they used blade connectors to attach the wires to the switch. I didn’t need to cut any wires, just detach the switch. So, I will attach blade connectors to the ends of the wires in the Bronco and just make the connection.

3 words I never hear my wife say

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