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It was the fuel pump and the fix is to replace it. Hopefully the new pump is more reliable.

Yeah, well it’s closer to a truck than a car but I get it. It’s a 2022 67,000 miles. nothing electrical, there’s an amp in the car, but it’s disconnected. The battery still works, all of the accessories are fine and when you push the button it tries to start

I was guessing the fuel pump since the symptoms seem to point directly to it. I wasn’t sure if other people were experiencing it as well.. for those that had this problem, did Ford just simply replace the fuel pump?

I was driving at 60mph and just lost acceleration. I pulled over and the truck just shut off. Anyone have a similar experience

Yes, Costco. Top Tier and manufacturer's octane guidance

This all looks great but I'm interested to know what the motor limits are. Everything looks bolt on so what do you think the internals can handle before you have issues?

Check out if there are any salvage yards in your area. I'm sure Broncos have been totaled so used parts are available.

Seems to me that if you have the time to painstakingly melt plastic, dab it onto the part that needs repair and then wipe with with something, you can slow down and be careful with a heat gun so you don't ruin the panel. To each his own, I am sure your methods works well.

proof of concept, just be careful

I think you are working too hard. If you take a heat gun and simply apply it to the plastic interior trim directly (moving back and forth so as not to burn or melt it completely) the scratches will disappear. Don't use an open flame, use a heat gun. Pretty sure a hair dryer works too.

Looks like a great idea but the access door being under the box doesn't allow you to just put stuff in it and lock it. Someone else also mentioned, everything appears to need to be strapped in. Maybe if there was a door on the rear facing side it would be more useful.

Could totally have been me. It was actually the wrong tool for opening the brake caliper. They said it fit my car but didn't. A lot of people love them for parts.

I've purchased from Rock Auto before but they sent me some wrong parts and the return process was such a pain. No customer care which I assume supports the low cost. I just through them out. Not sure if others had similar experience.

I think you are talking apples and oranges. I am talking incremental upgrade from OEM and you are talking wholesale huge jump from OEM. Based on the dealer cost of about $600 for all 4 wheels (including their mark up) and these costing $700, I think this is a fair comparison if someone is...

Sounds like the ship has sailed but I was thinking of replacing my brakes and rotors with the power stop z36 series. $700 for all four wheels. Seems they are an upgrade from OEM and certainly affordable if you replace them yourself.

This is definitely a future upgrade

I wouldn't say I'm putting my head in the sand or ignoring it. I simply won't use the 4A function in light snow. Since I can use 4H in snow, and use the 4A in dry and wet conditions, I'm fine not using it in between. Unless I am off-road, 99% of the time I am in 2H.

I’m not a fan of slippery mode because I don’t like the throttle response. I know why they do it, I just don’t like it.

Honestly, I am out of warranty and at this point, if I just bring the car in, they will tell me nothing is wrong with it and if I drive it in 4A and it fails, it won’t be covered. If they tell me there’s a problem and it needs to be replaced, it won’t be covered I’m kind of stuck.

A word of caution with 4A. I don't believe it should be used on snow covered roads where the traction shifts constantly. I believe you use 4H for that. Last year I was in Montreal and used 4A on a snow covered windy road and smelled a burnt clutch/brakes odor every time I got out of the car...