Driving without CV Axle Nut?

[BigP'sGreenMachine]

Dumb question but I was at a buddies shop today today putting on my lift and the axle shaft tread on my driver side got damaged. Can’t get the nut back on.

I realize I am likely going to need to replace if I can’t get it rethreaded, but am I safe to nurse this back to my house without that nut attached?

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[ScLeCo]

 

[the poacher]

I would suggest that you not drive it. There will be a lot of play without the nut and you will definitely risk some serious damage.

 

[BigP'sGreenMachine]

Pretty much what I expected. Thanks

 

[Brian_B]

Can often clean the threads up with a file - assuming you probably pounded on it trying to get it out and damaged the first few and can't get the nut started.

Takes some patience, but it can be done.

 

[kr_1315]

This is all that's needed to fix. New axle nut and M24x1.5 die. No need for a new CV axle. Possibly only a new nut would work.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09NCWBNWF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[AdamF@IAG]

You'll be replacing a wheel bearing as well without that axle nut in-place.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

So much misinformation here... I've literally put 5K miles down without any CV axles, or axle nut. on older GM designs, they would come apart if the NUT was not there to hold things together. If there was gonna be a problem, the stress from the 41" tires would have found an issue...most Fords unit bearings are designed and built in a way that they are safe to drive without the NUT in place.

 

[ScLeCo]

Well there you go. I still wouldn't do it. But that's just me.

 

[AdamF@IAG]

Experience tells me its a bad idea, but it appears there are exceptions.

 

[BroncoChallenger]

If you were going to do this, I would consider just taking the whole CV shaft out, but depending on how the front pumpkin is built (I don't personally know) you could be inviting contaminates into the differential housing. I wouldn't drive it at all, if you needed to get it home I'd put it on a flatbed.

If you're careful you can fix the threads with a file, you may need to mess with them a bit to get a die to fit as shown above.

For future reference though, I'm guessing you took the nut off, then hit the end of the shaft with a hammer and boogered up the threads. Never do that. ALWAYS leave the nut on the shaft, preferably flush or a little proud of the end of the shaft, to break the shaft loose. Once the shaft is loose, remove the nut (if you did damage the threads, it will at least mostly straighten them back out), then remove the shaft.

 

[BigP'sGreenMachine]

Quick update, but first, thanks for all the feedback.

After a lot of patience, a bit of filing, and using the die, we are back up and running.

Just took me a few hours, and definitely learned some lessons on this one.

I’ll post a photo once a get my tires mounted and the alignment done.

Thanks again, everyone.

 

[ScLeCo]

Quick update, but first, thanks for all the feedback.

After a lot of patience, a bit of filing, and using the die, we are back up and running.

Just took me a few hours, and definitely learned some lessons on this one.

I’ll post a photo once a get my tires mounted and the alignment done.

Thanks again, everyone.

 

[87-Z28]

Good info here. See post #5.
By @jeff in ohio

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/front-unit-bearings-safe-to-run-without-a-cv.85001/

 

[BigP'sGreenMachine]

Final product
Eibach 2.0 Coilovers
Wildpeak AT4W 315/70/17
While it took way longer than I would have liked, definitely worth all the work.

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