Is a mildish lift the solution to my problem?

[crenca]

Problem: I have been on my skids too much on level 5 & 6 trails such as:

https://www.onxmaps.com/offroad/trails/us/new-mexico/amatista-ledges {note, this is a 6 not a 7 as OnX has it)

These sorts of trails which are "ledgy" and rocky are common around here and often run with my local club. I am simply dragging on too many rocks. Just this past weekend I led a level 4 trail and was disappointed by how many bowling ball and a bit larger sized rocks that were getting caught on my skids, particularly (the usual) rear lower link mounts.

I run a Sasquatched manual Big Bend with OEM skids + transmission/front A arm/lower shock mount additions. I'm not heavy (currently no winch for example, but hidden winch wanted for future) but not light with tools, recovery gear, water, etc. in back at all times.

Solution:

I am just thinking this through and interested in y'all's input. Solution would consist of:

1. Accutune's 2.5 inch Front Coilovers, 2-3 Inch Lift DPA Ride Shocks "Adventure" tune, Weight Range 1 (or similar competing product). Perusing this maintained list, these have features I want (e.g. an inch less compressed length then many others to help with possible future 37 tire fitment, low & high speed adjustment, good-but-not-class-leading rear travel, etc.).
2. Broken Innovation's 3/4" (20mm) diff drop discussed here
   
   
3. Tracbar relocation bracket and yet to be determined UCA (maybe just Accutune's) to finish up lift.

My plan is to install suspension and leave 35's on and make a judgement (particularly about 37's) from there....

Questions, comments, concerns?

Thanks for any input!

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[Smocaine]

I lifted about 2" with the Eibach coilover kit and haven't scraped since. My nose was hanging quite low before - the winch kit sagged my factory suspension a bit in the front - and I have plenty of skidplate scars to prove it.

 

[PWillette]

Problem: I have been on my skids too much on level 5 & 6 trails such as:

https://www.onxmaps.com/offroad/trails/us/new-mexico/amatista-ledges {note, this is a 6 not a 7 as OnX has it)

These sorts of trails which are "ledgy" and rocky are common around here and often run with my local club. I am simply dragging on too many rocks. Just this past weekend I led a level 4 trail and was disappointed by how many bowling ball and a bit larger sized rocks that were getting caught on my skids, particularly (the usual) rear lower link mounts.

I run a Sasquatched manual Big Bend with OEM skids + transmission/front A arm/lower shock mount additions. I'm not heavy (currently no winch for example, but hidden winch wanted for future) but not light with tools, recovery gear, water, etc. in back at all times.

Solution:

I am just thinking this through and interested in y'all's input. Solution would consist of:

1. Accutune's 2.5 inch Front Coilovers, 2-3 Inch Lift DPA Ride Shocks "Adventure" tune, Weight Range 1 (or similar competing product). Perusing this maintained list, these have features I want (e.g. an inch less compressed length then many others to help with possible future 37 tire fitment, low & high speed adjustment, good-but-not-class-leading rear travel, etc.).
2. Broken Innovation's 3/4" (20mm) diff drop discussed here
   
   
3. Tracbar relocation bracket and yet to be determined UCA (maybe just Accutune's) to finish up lift.

My plan is to install suspension and leave 35's on and make a judgement (particularly about 37's) from there....

Questions, comments, concerns?

Thanks for any input!

My two cents...you're on the right track with a 2" lift to alleviate dragging on the skids but won't help much with the lower link mounts. Adding 37s is the answer.

Concerning the diff drop...IMO not needed for 2" of lift, maybe needed for 3".

Also, going up 2" is on the cusp of needing new UCAs. I'd also consider a rear trac bar relocation bracket for 2" of lift or more.

 

[Brian_B]

I agree with @PWillette

Lift only really changes where you ride nominally - it doesn't really change your max clearance since many of those lower elements (shock mounts, diffs, etc) are all still in the same spot, no matter what kind of lift you do. A lift will raise your frame mounted sliders and bumpers and fuel tank, so it isn't useless... just ... doesn't lift everything.

IMO - tires (or portals) for clearance, lift is to fit the tires

 

[Timbow]

2 dr squach, I did the eibach 2" springs, kept my bilstiens leveled it well, just enough lift, soft ride, maybe "Squishy" to some?

 

[crenca]

My two cents...you're on the right track with a 2" lift to alleviate dragging on the skids but won't help much with the lower link mounts. Adding 37s is the answer.

Lift only really changes where you ride nominally - it doesn't really change your max clearance since many of those lower elements (shock mounts, diffs, etc) are all still in the same spot,

This is a good point of detail. In my circumstances, besides my front LCA (which now have skids), my rear diff, shock skids, even rear link arms, are not looking too bad. Exception is the rear LC link mounts on the frame itself and which came re-inforced from the factory. The gas tank skid, transfer case/transmission skids, and the front bash & engine skids are taking the abuse. I assume from the trails I am choosing to do, and maybe my driving style though others who have clearance on par with mine are no different from what I can tell.

IMO - tires (or portals) for clearance, lift is to fit the tires

Ok, I get the point. I admit to (mentally) resisting going to larger tires right now, and the limitations of a 2-3 inch lift...why it's only 2-3 inches . I still want to keep the on road advantages of the 35's (CG, rotational mass, etc.) but it probably is not going to be possible and also do these levels of trails regularly

 

[Oldhippie]

I think ya got a good list there and when ya decide to go with 37”-38” you have what ya need with the Ride coilovers…just add the JKS kit for the tires (along with wheels/spacers)… party on!

 

[telenerd]

I would scrape all the time on my bone stock 2 door badlands with the stock shocks and happen even more when I added belly pan skids. I put Bilstein 6112s on and got about 2 inches of lift and kept my stock sas tires until I realized the stock Goodyears were also part of my problem as they were too soft and would lose a lot of clearance when airing down. Went with Mickey Thompson MT true 35s and gained a little bit of height over the Goodyears and when airing down they didn’t lose much height due to the stiffer sidewalls. Yeah you could go with 37s but there is a ton involved in making that change plus additional wear on parts over time. With the 2 inch lift I had to do front UCAs and track bar to get alignment correct. My rear alignment is still slightly off and considering rear upper and lower rear control arms to correct geometry and give a little bit more flex. Synergy sells high clearance arms that have a bend in the lower arms that will give you a little bit more clearance. My stock arms have a bunch of scrapes on them.

 

[andersman02]

Are you hitting the cross members often? Mine are smoked, what I did is put uhmv "inside" each channel. Still hit them, but can't even tell anymore.

37s were probably the biggest key though

 

[crenca]

Are you hitting the cross members often? Mine are smoked, what I did is put uhmv "inside" each channel. Still hit them, but can't even tell anymore.

37s were probably the biggest key though

2.3/manual so I don’t have the cross member issues. I am going to do uhmv on my front A arm skids and perhaps other strategic places.

y’all have me thinking about 37’s initally instead of waiting….I wanted to live in denial longer

 

[dgorsett]

A lift only raises those things carried by the springs. So, everything except axles, things attached to them and outboard portions of control arms. Larger tires lift everything.

Now, just me but, I'm a fan of lifts 2" or less, but not a big fan of large tires. Judicious tire placement goes a long way. Keep a picture of the underside of your rig stored in your brain and pick line accordingly. I would think anything up to a 6 trail should be no issue with your 35s

 

[userdude]

2.3/manual so I don’t have the cross member issues. I am going to do uhmv on my front A arm skids and perhaps other strategic places.

y’all have me thinking about 37’s initally instead of waiting….I wanted to live in denial longer

If you go to 38's, you've got 1.8" of real clearance over the stock GY tires. I think @Brian_B is running them and didn't have to jump through too many hoops. That would help with the link mounts. Also keep in mind COG if you get too tall.

 

[crenca]

@Brian_B , did you swap in adjustable/longer rear links (I don’t think you did longer driveshaft) when you went 38‘s on the rear or was front diff drop and track bar bracket enough?

 

[Brian_B]

@Brian_B , did you swap in adjustable/longer rear links (I don’t think you did longer driveshaft) when you went 38‘s on the rear or was front diff drop and track bar bracket enough?

I still have the stock rear links.

My diff drop and track bar bracket are from the RC 2.5" lift kit - I don't run the spacers on the coil overs since I went to ProComps, but those brackets are still in place.

(to be honest, I didn't even know I had the diff drop until I swapped out my diff a few weeks ago)

I did the JKS kit, added a 3/4" body lift, and then needed to shim the rear coil overs another 1/4" for some minor rubbing on the liner. If I had done a 1" body lift I probably wouldn't have needed the additional 1/4" in the rear.

I'm not certain what the offset is on my rims, but I would bet +12 or 0. (my truck came with the KMC rims and the RC kit pre-installed by the dealer)

 

[userdude]

I still have the stock rear links.

My diff drop and track bar bracket are from the RC 2.5" lift kit - I don't run the spacers on the coil overs since I went to ProComps, but those brackets are still in place.

(to be honest, I didn't even know I had the diff drop until I swapped out my diff a few weeks ago)

I did the JKS kit, added a 3/4" body lift, and then needed to shim the rear coil overs another 1/4" for some minor rubbing on the liner. If I had done a 1" body lift I probably wouldn't have needed the additional 1/4" in the rear.

I'm not certain what the offset is on my rims, but I would bet +12 or 0. (my truck came with the KMC rims and the RC kit pre-installed by the dealer)

Well, that's a little more updates than I knew about... lol I would like 38's for the clearance, though, so if that's he's looking for, at least they're not 40s, which would be a lot more work.

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