De-complicating Audio in the Bronco

[Farm8265]

Hi Guys,

I get a bajillion questions all around a similar topic so I though it would be easier for everyone if i dump my knowledge into one place.

There are 3 audio systems in the bronco:

Base:
In this system the Heaudnit(ACM, Audio control module) drives all speakers directly, woofers and tweeters are driven off the same channel in the front and then one channel each to the rear pods. In this system the ACM does all your signal processing and chimes handling.

Mid:
In this system the ACM drives all the speaker and also sends a low level signal to the rear subwoofer amplifier. In this system the ACM does all your audio processing and chimes handling as well.

**Both of the above systems can be coded to disable DSP processing and you do not need an interface**

B&O system:
This system is fundamentally different to the other two, in this system the ACM does not do any processing at all, nor does it handle chimes. it simply passes a full range unprocessed signal to the rear amplifier over A2B (Automotive audio bus) This is a pure digital 24bit 48k signal. The ACM will then send all of the fade, balance and other audio related commands including chimes via the CAN bus. The amplifier has to handle all of this as well as process the signal.

The back amplifier drives the front door woofer, the dash speakers and the subwoofer, 5 channels in total. The ACM drives the rear pods and the center channel, 3 channels total (it does not do the processing for these channels though!! this signal is fed through the rear amp and then back to the ACM via A2B). This is why we include an ACM harness in our kit to grab these speaker wires and run them back for our amp to drive them. This is also why these speakers stop playing when you fit an aftermarket A2B pre-amp or amp.

Upgrading these systems:
Base and mid are easy to upgrade but you will never get as good of a result as you will upgrading the B&O system and ill explain why. You can code the base systems and then feed them into any DSP amp and get a good result, however you are still grabbing a signal that was digital in the ACM then it was converted to analogue to be amplified, then fed into the aftermarket DSP and converted back to digital and then finally back to analogue to be amplified AGAIN. So that is 3 conversions!! You will loose a lot of fidelity.

If you're upgrading the B&O system you might as well take full advantage of this digital audio bus and get a seriously awesome system. Here are your options:

By far the easiest and most advanced way to upgrade this system is with out K2 amplifier. It is the ONLY aftermarket amplifier on the market that takes the factory A2B bus directly in. Therefore you have the most pure signal path possible. It is also the only way to retain full fade and directional chimes (like parking beeps) with a digital input. I get a lot of questions on why our amplifier is different to others and this is why.

Why you don't want to leave the B&O amp in when upgrading these systems - The B&O amplifier has a full DSP and each channel is tuned to each speaker and its specific response. The factory B&O speakers will have a completely different frequency response to most aftermarket speaker and this is why you can actually end up with a worse sounding system by just swapping speakers sometimes. Even if you add a DSP amplifier after the B&O amplifier to correct this signal you're still battling an already amplified signal and now you're double DSPing it. You also have no ability to adjust chime level independently to the rest of the signals.

What a pre-amp does - A pre-amp grabs the audio signal off the A2B bus and the audio commands off the CAN bus and converts them into an RCA output and or TOSLINK. Because the amplifier is removed from the system you get a clean untouched signal you can then feed this into any aftermarket amplifier you choose.
I recommend this approach if you want a stupid amount of power or if you like slightly warmer sound of class A/B amplifiers.

The pre-amp approach is a much bigger job as you have multiple modules to wire up and mount and tune.

Output figures of B&O amp vs K2 (RMS figures)
Factory - K2
Sub 50w 400W
Kick panels 25w 150w
All other locations 25W 70w

How to get the best bang for buck upgrade on a tight budget - This is the question i get asked the most, now as i don't really dabble in the non-B&O realm i will not comment on these systems as I don't have enough experience. This advice applies for B&O systems only
In my opinion by far the best bang for buck upgrade is to upgrade the amplifier and subwoofer. Unfortunately with modern cars that have heavily tuned factory dsp amplifier gone are the days of upgrading your speakers to 6x9s and getting awesome results. The factory speakers can handle a little bit more power and don't sound half bad when tuned correctly. As the subwoofer is the most power hungry speaker it is also the one that needs to be upgraded first when you add more power. The combination of increased sub, slightly more midbass from the increased power in the kicks and hands down better amplifier and DSP means you actually get a night and day increase in audio performance while not blowing the budget and making your wife angry.

TLDR:
- Yes, the K2 supports all factory functionality including directional chimes, it is the only way to so this with a digital signal path.
- Don't even bother trying to do anything more than a sub upgrade in a B&O system without a pre-amp installed at a minimum.
- All-in-one amp is easiest and advacned way to upgrade these cars and can be done DIY.

I also figured this would be a good place for everyone to post questions. So ask away!

Is there a subwoofer that would still fit in factory space and work with this?

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[Phil B]

I am considering the JL 10TW3 with the enclosure these folks sell. https://additivecaraudio.com/product-category/bronco6g/

There are cheaper options involving modifying the factory enclosure. Lots of posts about it.

 

[eduard4us]

I am considering the JL 10TW3 with the enclosure these folks sell. https://additivecaraudio.com/product-category/bronco6g/

There are cheaper options involving modifying the factory enclosure. Lots of posts about it.

These are some nice enclosures.
I went with a similar enclosure, custom built out of MDF.
The only problem with the OEM location is that no matter what enclosure you will be using, there will be some sort of resonance especially in the low end.
There are compromises to make if you want to keep a factory look and trunk space.

 

[Farm8265]

These are some nice enclosures.
I went with a similar enclosure, custom built out of MDF.
The only problem with the OEM location is that no matter what enclosure you will be using, there will be some sort of resonance especially in the low end.
There are compromises to make if you want to keep a factory look and trunk space.

Thanks

 

[mpeugeot]

This is a great post. I have a friend who considers himself a expert on car audio and he's roasting me over what I'm about to spend. I copied this to him, maybe I'll get a little respect now.

Let him roast you all he wants, but @HalfmuleFarmer (a guy who worked as a professional in the music industry) was impressed with the sound quality of my MoBridge setup (despite my using relatively budget speakers and my suboptimal tuning of the system).

 

[ChrisNYC]

Wanted to chime in here as I’ve recently (3/25) installed the mObridge Bronco B&O replacement kit. There are multiple threads and now even a great vid detailing the install process so I won’t go into this but to say if you’re handy in even a slight way, it’s a breeze. The kit is complete with everything you need and it can all be done in a day, roughly 6hrs. Seriously, don’t be intimidated in the slightest way.

Speakers:
The hottest topic on 6G and something that really comes down to taste and budget, IMO. Here’s an irrefutable truth, ANY speakers you choose, provided they align, roughly, with the output from this DSP amp on each channel, will floor you as compared to the stock B&O system. I know the 25 MY has made further improvements to the system and, admittedly, I have not heard that system as I have a 24’. That said, simply by virtue of the mObridge amp (power) and the INCREDIBLE DSP, you can easily achieve very satisfying mix and volume. For me, I took the plunge to upgrade to something that would allow my wife to hear her music with the doors and top off as this is her baby.

After reading everything on this forum and also speaking with Fraser, I ultimately decided on the following;
Fronts and Pods- Morel Tempo Ultra Integra 402 MKII across for all three dash speakers and in stock pods
Kicks - Morel Hybrid MW6
Stinger Tailgate Audio Control 12" Sub

Here's what I will say about this setup; I was concerned that going with 2-way speakers in the dash instead of a component set would leave me unhappy. I've done components several times in my life, though the last time was YEARS ago, and I was worried the 2-ways would have trouble with clear and smoot vocals and crisp (not fatiguing) highs. I was 100% wrong. The 402s are pretty amazing. Can't fathom the Hybrid 42s.

The Hybrid MW6 in the kicks are, hands down, the biggest improvement to me. There's a lot of talk on this forum about the location of these kick panel speaker and the inability to get good, solid, base, from that location. With some sound deadening installed inside the speaker cavity and this amp, the problem is literally solved. The base these produce is tight, musical, perfect. IMO.

Stinger Tailgate Sub. More than does the job. LOTS of clear low-end thump. No-brainer for the cost of this. Install is also easy on this one.

Tuning the DSP - Here is the biggest challenge, at least for me. Unless you're someone who's familiar and confident with a pretty advanced DSP system, this is formidable. However, don't fear this either. I was provided with a Base Tune first and the Fraser actually sent me a customized Tune for my speaker setup. Ironically, this isn't the one I'm even using today as I was also provided a version of another Tune Fraser created, actually for a Hertz speaker set up that I then played around with for a few months to a point where I'm very happy with the sound. All this said, between Fraser and members of this forum, you've got access to a wealth of support and help and even the Base tune that will come on the amp is miles ahead of the sound you're leaving.

Final Thoughts - Yes, it's not cheap. I get it. But if you've got the B&O system and you're not happy with the sound or you're frustrated (like I was) that you really can't hear your music while riding with top off, this is your best option. Sure, if you're an audio guy and skilled in understanding the intricacies of advanced audio and wiring, you can probably figure out how to do it cheaper. I'm not that guy. I can take things apart and put them together with some instruction and some trial and error. This system, with or without expensive speakers (again, you're going to have to get speakers that handle the wattage being pushed to them or they'll be short lived, I'd imagine), will impress. Lastly, the customer service offered by Fraser is second to none. I had a 22' Bronco with the base system previously (unfortunately it got totaled by a 16-year-old kid in a Ram 2500) and ordered another kit from another guy who frequents this forum, and it was a total nightmare. Shady af is all I will say. Fraser is legit. Cares that you're happy, knows his stuff, trustworthy. Hope this helps someone else as they are making a decision on upgrading your sound.

TN Kane, I’m in the middle of installing a very similar MObridge/Morel set up (a couple of minor differences-I put in the Morel 6.5 inch speakers in new rear pods and am going with the Additive Car Audio sub box for the 10 inch JL subwoofer). I wasn’t going to replace the center dash speaker, in part because I’ve read different things on whether it is worth it to buy a second set of four inch speakers to replace the one center dash speaker. Any thoughts on whether you thought the center dash replacement was worth it?

 

[TN Kane]

Hello, Chris. It’s tough to tell, honestly. Ho
Early I was on the fence about buying another set of the 402 MKIis but convinced myself that I’d gone this far and would always be wondering if muting that stock speaker was making the sound not what it should be. I tried and tried to get Crutchfield to sell me a single speaker, lol. No deal on that. I did however get an open box set for about $25 off the original price of the set. Because that stock speaker in the center is only set up to get 25watts I’d assume you’ll burn it pretty quick if you don’t just eliminate it if you’re not gonna take the plunge on a set. Bottom line, these Morel 2-ways sound great but if you skip it, I’m betting you’re still VERY happy! Also, once you’re all installed hit me up and I’ll send you the rax file I’m using. Try it out! Good luck bro. You’re gonna love it!

 

[elbroncodor]

TN Kane, I’m in the middle of installing a very similar MObridge/Morel set up (a couple of minor differences-I put in the Morel 6.5 inch speakers in new rear pods and am going with the Additive Car Audio sub box for the 10 inch JL subwoofer). I wasn’t going to replace the center dash speaker, in part because I’ve read different things on whether it is worth it to buy a second set of four inch speakers to replace the one center dash speaker. Any thoughts on whether you thought the center dash replacement was worth it?

Doing this same setup. Just put in the mobridge and morels (including 6.5s in mabett pods). I left in my old jl-c1 in the center. Got the Morel tune from Fraser and after changing the eq settings in the dash got it sounding pretty good (treble all the way up, bass slightly up from middle, mid slightly down). My kicker comp rt 8" has some resonating but sounds pretty good. Just waiting on the gearshade box to swap in the jl that just arrived. Then looking forward to that tuning video from Mobridge to really get it dialed in.

 

[Jack667]

Hi Guys,
...

Base:
In this system the Heaudnit(ACM, Audio control module) drives all speakers directly, woofers and tweeters are driven off the same channel in the front and then one channel each to the rear pods. In this system the ACM does all your signal processing and chimes handling.

Mid:
In this system the ACM drives all the speaker and also sends a low level signal to the rear subwoofer amplifier. In this system the ACM does all your audio processing and chimes handling as well.

**Both of the above systems can be coded to disable DSP processing and you do not need an interface**

B&O system:
This system is fundamentally different to the other two...
.....
I also figured this would be a good place for everyone to post questions. So ask away!

Cut out some of the message to focus on Base and Mid.
(btw - Does Ford know that kids use the term 'mid' pejoratively?)

Is there an answer to this Q for Mid?
How to get the best bang for buck upgrade on a tight budget

 

[Phil B]

I just ordered the Additive enclosure for the JL speaker. I plan to do 4” Morels in the rear pods, maybe later I’ll upgrade to 6 1/2 and move one of the 4” to the center dash. I have not settled on the kick panel’s yet, what are you using there?

 

[Truckin]

I can’t find it but thought someone posted ford changed the 25 b&o configuration? If so are there systems for beginners that will work better than others?

 

[BlarneyStoned]

I am considering the JL 10TW3 with the enclosure these folks sell. https://additivecaraudio.com/product-category/bronco6g/

There are cheaper options involving modifying the factory enclosure. Lots of posts about it.

100% recommend this solution, I upgraded from the StealthBox to this and it's a much better sounding option.

I also would not bother upsizing the rear-pods, it's just not going to make enough of a difference to justify the extra cost.

 

[TRS10]

Is there a subwoofer that would still fit in factory space and work with this?

DS18 *" subwoofer for Bronco- Exact plug and play fit. It is a good replacement,

 

[Farm8265]

DS18 *" subwoofer for Bronco- Exact plug and play fit. It is a good replacement,

Thanks for the info

 

[Im_lloyd]

Just did a 25 Heritage with base audio two weeks ago and found its the new a2b for the sub only amp. Acm still powering all the other speakers. Have a dtc for a2b. Haven’t found anything with forscan to disable the a2b to get rid of it.

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