My B&O audio system upgrade

[VailAZBronco]

I have been trying to decide what to do with the stereo in my Bronco for over a year. The posts on this forum have been very helpful so I thought I would share what I finally came up with. I drive my Bronco with the top off about 90% of the time so the factory B & O system that is already terrible is even worse with no top. I originally planned to just upgrade the speakers and add an amp for an aftermarket sub but realized that would not be enough. I ran across the moBridge amp replacement kit and knew it would be the perfect solution.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/members/mobridge.49453/



I am so happy I decided to go with mobridge. The customer service was amazing. Before my amp was sent out, Fraser from mobridge called me to go over what I would be installing. He customized the wire harness for my configuration and spent some time talking over everything. There is no way you will get this level of customer service with any other stereo company. All the wiring is included with this amp. The only extra wiring I had to do is to run speaker wire directly to the tweeters from the amp. The kick panel speakers and dash speaker run on the same channel from factory.



https://mobridge.us/product/ford-bronco-amplifier-plug-and-play-a2b/



For the kick panel and dash speakers I used JL Audio C2-650 component speakers bought from Crutchfield. The speakers included adapters need for the dash locations. For the kick panel speakers, I found some great adapters that also include sound dampening material for Sounds Good Stereo. With the amp/dsp from mobridge the included crossovers were not needed since the DSP would do the work. This was also verified by a conversation I had with Fraser at mobridge before he sent my amp.



https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C2650/JL-Audio-C2650.html?tp=105



https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...ford-bronco-6th-gen-front-kick-panel-location



I decided to delete the center channel location for a true stereo sound. From factory, phone calls are routed to this speaker. Once the new amp is installed you can map the phone calls and beeps to any speaker of your choice. This was very easy by connecting a laptop to the new mobridge amp.



For the rear pods I went with MTI Acoustics pods with JL Audio C2-650X 2 way speakers. MTI will include the speakers at a discount. This was a huge upgrade to the rear fill compared to the factory 4” speakers. I am very happy with these pods from MTI but their customer service is not great. You will receive no instructions with any of their products and when I emailed to ask a few questions, there was no response. Luckily the installation is mostly self-explanatory.



https://www.mtiacoustics.net/ford.h...r-Speaker-Pods/p/441935695/category=127527300



For the sub I originally was waiting for the JL Audio Stealthbox. After reading some reviews I decided for the price and performance it was not worth hiding the sub. I went with the MTI Acoustics tailgate mounted sub with a JL Audio 12” TW3-D4 subwoofer. MTI will include the sub at a discounted price. Again, no instructions from MTI but they do have a good video on their website, so this process was easy. You will have to drill and install rivnuts in your tailgate.

https://www.mtiacoustics.net/ford.h...ofer-enclosure/p/441936679/category=127528592





To mount the amp, I used MTI again. They have a great solution for the space left when you remove the factory sub and amp. If you needed to, you could easily fit two amps in this location.



https://www.mtiacoustics.net/ford.html#!/Amp-Rack/c/127527532



I also added a USB port to the rear cargo area so if I wanted to do any adjustments in the future it would be easier.



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCA9XEI?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1





This whole process was easy. The hardest part for me was removing all the interior trim without breaking anything. The part that I was the most unsure of was configuring the DSP. I was able to do most of the basic crossover settings and speaker mapping. Fraser from mobridge is going to help me fine tune everything later. Even without the fine tuning the sound is night and day from the factory B & O system. I can actually hear the music clearly now with the top off.





Other installation materials

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MV68BJH?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084GDLSCK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QC0XZO?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RX6QYX5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TBL1GM4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Some of the tools I bought

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZV3P2R6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2PTYS6N?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KXYHZWT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1857QC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

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[RagnarKon]

I drive my Bronco with the top off about 90% of the time so the factory B & O system that is already terrible is even worse with no top.

HAH... HAHHHAHAH... ... hah.... ...ugh....

I had more weekends with rain this summer than sun, and It's currently 38 degrees and drizzling.

---

ANYWAY... great work.

Putting in the USB plug was actually a really good idea. Most people seem to just be hiding a USB cable behind the square panel used for the soft top mount, but what you came up with was clean.

 

[eduard4us]

I have been trying to decide what to do with the stereo in my Bronco for over a year. The posts on this forum have been very helpful so I thought I would share what I finally came up with. I drive my Bronco with the top off about 90% of the time so the factory B & O system that is already terrible is even worse with no top. I originally planned to just upgrade the speakers and add an amp for an aftermarket sub but realized that would not be enough. I ran across the moBridge amp replacement kit and knew it would be the perfect solution.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/members/mobridge.49453/



I am so happy I decided to go with mobridge. The customer service was amazing. Before my amp was sent out, Fraser from mobridge called me to go over what I would be installing. He customized the wire harness for my configuration and spent some time talking over everything. There is no way you will get this level of customer service with any other stereo company. All the wiring is included with this amp. The only extra wiring I had to do is to run speaker wire directly to the tweeters from the amp. The kick panel speakers and dash speaker run on the same channel from factory.



https://mobridge.us/product/ford-bronco-amplifier-plug-and-play-a2b/



For the kick panel and dash speakers I used JL Audio C2-650 component speakers bought from Crutchfield. The speakers included adapters need for the dash locations. For the kick panel speakers, I found some great adapters that also include sound dampening material for Sounds Good Stereo. With the amp/dsp from mobridge the included crossovers were not needed since the DSP would do the work. This was also verified by a conversation I had with Fraser at mobridge before he sent my amp.



https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C2650/JL-Audio-C2650.html?tp=105



https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...ford-bronco-6th-gen-front-kick-panel-location



I decided to delete the center channel location for a true stereo sound. From factory, phone calls are routed to this speaker. Once the new amp is installed you can map the phone calls and beeps to any speaker of your choice. This was very easy by connecting a laptop to the new mobridge amp.



For the rear pods I went with MTI Acoustics pods with JL Audio C2-650X 2 way speakers. MTI will include the speakers at a discount. This was a huge upgrade to the rear fill compared to the factory 4” speakers. I am very happy with these pods from MTI but their customer service is not great. You will receive no instructions with any of their products and when I emailed to ask a few questions, there was no response. Luckily the installation is mostly self-explanatory.



https://www.mtiacoustics.net/ford.h...r-Speaker-Pods/p/441935695/category=127527300



For the sub I originally was waiting for the JL Audio Stealthbox. After reading some reviews I decided for the price and performance it was not worth hiding the sub. I went with the MTI Acoustics tailgate mounted sub with a JL Audio 12” TW3-D4 subwoofer. MTI will include the sub at a discounted price. Again, no instructions from MTI but they do have a good video on their website, so this process was easy. You will have to drill and install rivnuts in your tailgate.

https://www.mtiacoustics.net/ford.h...ofer-enclosure/p/441936679/category=127528592





To mount the amp, I used MTI again. They have a great solution for the space left when you remove the factory sub and amp. If you needed to, you could easily fit two amps in this location.



https://www.mtiacoustics.net/ford.html#!/Amp-Rack/c/127527532



I also added a USB port to the rear cargo area so if I wanted to do any adjustments in the future it would be easier.



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCA9XEI?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1





This whole process was easy. The hardest part for me was removing all the interior trim without breaking anything. The part that I was the most unsure of was configuring the DSP. I was able to do most of the basic crossover settings and speaker mapping. Fraser from mobridge is going to help me fine tune everything later. Even without the fine tuning the sound is night and day from the factory B & O system. I can actually hear the music clearly now with the top off.





Other installation materials

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MV68BJH?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084GDLSCK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QC0XZO?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RX6QYX5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TBL1GM4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Some of the tools I bought

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZV3P2R6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2PTYS6N?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KXYHZWT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1857QC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Great work!!

I’m trying to find the name for the three connectors dual pins that connects to the amp for the pods and center channel. After a year of having the system installed I’m going to ditch the center channel and get the system running as a 3-way system.
Thank you in advance!

 

[mObridge]

Great work!!

I’m trying to find the name for the three connectors dual pins that connects to the amp for the pods and center channel. After a year of having the system installed I’m going to ditch the center channel and get the system running as a 3-way system.
Thank you in advance!

They are a molex minifit JR

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3523581233...b3ohbE0SJ6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

There way active the world!

 

[eduard4us]

They are a molex minifit JR

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3523581233...b3ohbE0SJ6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

There way active the world!

The one I have are not the mini version and they are only 2 pins. Most likely are the regular Molex for two pins. Thanks!

 

[mObridge]

The one I have are not the mini version and they are only 2 pins. Most likely are the regular Molex for two pins. Thanks!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4013734179...b3ohbE0SJ6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Sorry this is the one

 

[eduard4us]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4013734179...b3ohbE0SJ6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Sorry this is the one

Yup, that is the one. Thanks a lot!!

 

[Stevoid]

VailAZBronco How did you hook up the USB adapter to the Mobridge? Looks like the end that goes into the amp not usb-a.

 

[VailAZBronco]

Mobridge comes with a USB cable.
I ordered a USB A female to female adapter and a USB port for my installation.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MV68BJH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCA9XEI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[Cormeister]

@VailAZBronco. Great writeup! I have been planning for months to install the JL Audio Stealthbox, though have been struggling to figure out where to hide the amp (probably the JL Audio VX700/5i). Now knowing about what MTI offers (thanks to your post), I could use their amp rack to hide the amp. I wasn't planning on doing a tailgate box, though I suppose that's a great alternative if that means I can finally find a place to conceal the amp.

A few questions on your setup:

Front speakers. You went with components with the tweeters in the dash. How does this sound? I have been going back and forth on this setup versus two sets of coaxials, only because I felt components would put the tweeter too far from the 6.5" speaker in the kick panel. For this reason, my thought was to go with the JL Audio C3 components which allow the tweeter to be separate (in the dash), or installed with the speaker coaxial style (in the kick) if I felt they were too far away, then add coaxial on the dash if needed.

Rear speakers. I was planning on getting the Metro rear pods, as they look very similar to the factory 4" pods. Does the MTI pod with the rhino liner finish match well with the interior?

Sub. For the tailgate box, do you notice any rattle? Is the door easier/more difficult to open/close with the extra 40lbs attached to it? I was watching an install video, looks like the bottom metal brackets of the box simply rest on two slots in the tailgate. Did you wrap these brackets in anything to avoid metal on metal contact? Does the box come with, or did you need to add any polyfill?

Really like your idea with the USB port, will need to do this as well. JL makes this as an accessory as well.

Thanks again!

 

[VailAZBronco]

The sound with the tweeter in the dash is great. There is no point to put two-way speakers by your feet. I think it sounds much better just having mid-base in the front locations. Fraser at mObridge helped my the crossover settings in the amp/dsp to get everything sounding good.

I wouldn't say the MTI rear speaker pods match the interior perfectly but I think they still look good. I liked the build quality of these better than any of the alternatives.

For the tailgate mounted sub I put a layer of dynomat between the sub and the tailgate. I also put a layer of dynomat inside the enclosure. MTI included this with the box. So far I have not had any rattles. I was also going to go with the JL Audio stealth box but the reviews of the sound were not good. I am glad I went with a 12" sub. With the top off the extra base is needed.

 

[Stevoid]

I have the Stealthbox matched with Morel 2way hybrids. They are meant for BMW but there is an installer on here where I was able to get 3d printer adapters made. These are the same speakers that Morel and MoBridge partners on soon to be released to have the adapter from Morel already to go.

The JL Stealthbox sounds really good, better than most that I have listened to and fits nicely.

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