JL Audio upgrades to b/o system

[Doetsch Off-Road]

Jamie came in to upgrade his BO system to suit his needs for Rock music with some kick.
Two pairs of JL Audio c2 650 kits were added to the front and rear. The rear 6.5s were put in to the new SSX oversized replacement pods. JL Audio 1000/5 amp supplied all the power needed to those and the 12tw3 sub in our own custom made tailgate box. Of course ample amounts of dynamat and foam were added for a rattle free experience.

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[Montaracactusgrey]

Lifelong JL fan here. Did you interface new equipment with B&O or just cut the amp out?

 

[Doetsch Off-Road]

Lifelong JL fan here. Did you interface new equipment with B&O or just cut the amp out?

we had to use a ZEN Controller

 

[Montaracactusgrey]

we had to use a ZEN Controller

Thanks!

 

[Bonz50]

do you need a ZEN if your amp can take speaker level input?? like, for instance some of the rockford or alpine amps??

 

[Doetsch Off-Road]

Zen on B&O is mandatory

 

[Combustion_King]

Looks sweet like candy

 

[crimsonhokie]

@Doetsch Off-Road Did you use the c2-650 component system in the fronts? Also, is the center channel still functioning?

 

[Doetsch Off-Road]

@Doetsch Off-Road Did you use the c2-650 component system in the fronts? Also, is the center channel still functioning?

Center channel is still functioning. Used the c3-650s up front
https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...r-audio-speakers-c3-convertible-systems-99022

 

[threegeez]

Jamie came in to upgrade his BO system to suit his needs for Rock music with some kick.
Two pairs of JL Audio c2 650 kits were added to the front and rear. The rear 6.5s were put in to the new SSX oversized replacement pods. JL Audio 1000/5 amp supplied all the power needed to those and the 12tw3 sub in our own custom made tailgate box. Of course ample amounts of dynamat and foam were added for a rattle free experience.

What speakers did you use in front? Im looking at using a MTI box for the sub on my 2dr wildtrak. The one with the Horse is cool

 

[GiaMia]

we had to use a ZEN Controller

Jamie came in to upgrade his BO system to suit his needs for Rock music with some kick.
Two pairs of JL Audio c2 650 kits were added to the front and rear. The rear 6.5s were put in to the new SSX oversized replacement pods. JL Audio 1000/5 amp supplied all the power needed to those and the 12tw3 sub in our own custom made tailgate box. Of course ample amounts of dynamat and foam were added for a rattle free experience.

Cost? Trying to figure out what something like this will run. Thanks.

 

[Hossfire]

The A2B interfaces are likely the best solution. I haven't used one, but I have been reading up.

Here's what I have learned in my research:

B&O is a pain to upgrade in traditional ways (line out converters and amping)

• The sub channel has a bass roll-off. If bronco is like other Ford B&Os, this starts a volume level 14
• There is a lot of (IMHO) 'messy' EQ going on, shaping volume levels for Harmon's crappy speakers. Also, they add time delays to some speakers.
• Getting a full range signal to feed something like a Kicker Keyloc may be difficult without a channel summing device.

The A2B interface route requires three components (and ALWAYS requires removing the factory DSP amp:

1. The interface itself, which takes the signal from the dash and processes the signals to flat EQ while keeping all the chimes, navigation prompts, etc. This typically removes any speed sensitivity and fake noises from the system (a plus in my book).
2. A DSP. While you might not think a DSP is necessary, you need to amplify all of your speakers (see #3). Most aftermarket 4" speakers (or tweeters/midrange if you go that route) will usually have lower RMS ratings than the 6.5s that you put in the kicks and upgraded pods in the back.
3. One or more amps. Using this setup, you probably don't need to reuse the center dash. You will need to amplify the dash, kicks and rear pods --- seven channels.

Here's my understanding of the three routes on the market today:

1. PAC Amp Pro (around $425-$450). This covers the A2B interface. Because it only outputs Front, Rear and Sub you will need a DSP to (bare minimum) separately feed the front two channels with appropriate EQ levels and to adjust the output to the dash speakers (so you don't blow them). Also, you need amps. The pros of this setup is that it is less tricky than the Zen unit to setup. Cons are you need an external DSP.
2. NAV-TV Zen (around $780). This includes A2B and a built in DSP and outputs to a lot more channels than the PAC Amp Pro. The DSP as described on their website is pretty basic, but enough to get the job done. Pros--- no need for a DSP unless you like to tweak. Cons are that it is a more technical setup. Also, they require all of your amps to be grounded to the negative terminal of the battery. So you buy/run more power cable.
3. Mobridge($1,600 but you probably will want their kit which adds another $260). The holy grail of A2B for Ford A2B. Interface, DSP and a very strong class D amp in a compact package. Amp specs :
   • 6x 150W Channels @ 4 ohms | 75W RMS
   • 2x 300W Channels @ 4 ohms | 150W RMS
   • 1x 500W Subwoofer Channel @ 4 ohms (or 800W @ 2 Ohms) | 250w RMS & 400w RMS

My biggest reservation about Mobridge is that it is a large amount of money to drop into a single component. If it fails out of warranty you have to plunk out another $1,600. The pros are strong though: that amp can be mounted is a number of places in the Bronco with zero cargo space lost. Reportedly, it's a pretty straight forward install.​

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I am still exploring other options (because researching car audio is fun!) The factory sub isn't cutting it and I need more power for when the top panels are off and windows down.​

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Also...I just realized that Mobridge does some non-amplified B&O options as well. The .Pro version looks like a pretty solid option at $700.​

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