4x4 performance reduced message after time in the sand

[Tom801]

I was out wheeling today and for the first time in some sand. Tires aired down, sand GOAT mode, and 4H. Drove around for hours between coasting and pushing it on some hills and peel outs.
I eventually chose a terrible place to turn around and got myself stuck. Before my recovery person could make it to me I was antsy and trying various ways to wiggle myself out (instead of sitting and accepting I messed up). Wiggling front wheels, tried swapping between drive modes, and when my recovery showed up, we realized the front wheels weren't turning on their own and I had an ABS warning + auto collision functions disabled and I was stuck in sand GOAT mode. He got me out and when I reached pavement I aired up my tires and reset the battery, this got it back into normal mode and I was able to get it back in front wheel drive. The ABS light eventually shut off, everything felt right again on the road, and I could change GOAT modes freely again.
The only lingering issue is that now when changing between 2 or 4 wheel drive, I get a message saying that 4x4 performance has been reduced and to check the manual. What are people's experience with this warning of any? Was it a similar situation to mine? What potential damage might I be looking at? (How bad did I goof?)

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[Brian_B]

I’ve had this happen to me in snow and it was my FAD getting hung up - got it to clear by manually cycling the front disconnect with a screwdriver.

I’ve heard of people doing it in sand and it being the t-case getting a bit too hot and just needing a bit to cool down.

Also can happen if you lose a wheel speed sensor

 

[Tom801]

I’ve heard of people doing it in sand and it being the t-case getting a bit too hot and just needing a bit to cool down.

Also can happen if you lose a wheel speed sensor

I was riding for awhile when I got stuck and unstuck, and the Ford app did send me a message about something in regards to the front wheel sensor, but I didn't have a chance to see what exactly it specified and all warnings went away on the app after resetting and driving for a bit, so maybe it's something in regards to this.

 

[SHANUT]

I was out wheeling today and for the first time in some sand. Tires aired down, sand GOAT mode, and 4H. Drove around for hours between coasting and pushing it on some hills and peel outs.
I eventually chose a terrible place to turn around and got myself stuck. Before my recovery person could make it to me I was antsy and trying various ways to wiggle myself out (instead of sitting and accepting I messed up). Wiggling front wheels, tried swapping between drive modes, and when my recovery showed up, we realized the front wheels weren't turning on their own and I had an ABS warning + auto collision functions disabled and I was stuck in sand GOAT mode. He got me out and when I reached pavement I aired up my tires and reset the battery, this got it back into normal mode and I was able to get it back in front wheel drive. The ABS light eventually shut off, everything felt right again on the road, and I could change GOAT modes freely again.
The only lingering issue is that now when changing between 2 or 4 wheel drive, I get a message saying that 4x4 performance has been reduced and to check the manual. What are people's experience with this warning of any? Was it a similar situation to mine? What potential damage might I be looking at? (How bad did I goof?)

I’ve always wondered how you get the sand out of all of the running gear and seals to prevent eventual catastrophic damage from driving around in the sand.

 

[dgorsett]

I'm curious about this " I get a message saying that 4x4 performance has been reduced" . If your in 4H and not 4A how is 4x4 reduced? Either it's 4x4 or it's not.

Interesting about your FAD @Brian_B

 

[SierraBronco]

I'm curious about this " I get a message saying that 4x4 performance has been reduced" . If your in 4H and not 4A how is 4x4 reduced? Either it's 4x4 or it's not.

Interesting about your FAD @Brian_B

We have a discussion going on another thread (though between @BigMeatsBronco and I we aren't 100% certain on the final verdict ) but it seems that the Bronco with advanced transfer case only uses the clutch fully engaged as 4H and 4L "lock." There doesn't seem to be any actual locking fork. If you overheat the clutch it could absolutely be slipping and send you into limp mode. Common problem with 1/2 ton Rams and F-150's with the same style of Borg Warner transfer case. It was enough of an issue that Rappy trimmed F-150's got a special transfer case with a physical lock for 4H and 4L.

 

[SierraBronco]

Factory tape

Aftermarket carbon tape

Final two pictures are non-advanced. Note the fork

 

[dgorsett]

We have a discussion going on another thread (though between @BigMeatsBronco and I we aren't 100% certain on the final verdict ) but it seems that the Bronco with advanced transfer case only uses the clutch fully engaged as 4H and 4L "lock." There doesn't seem to be any actual locking fork. If you overheat the clutch it could absolutely be slipping and send you into limp mode. Common problem with 1/2 ton Rams and F-150's with the same style of Borg Warner transfer case. It was enough of an issue that Rappy trimmed F-150's got a special transfer case with a physical lock for 4H and 4L.

Got it and thanks. I've been following that other thread and forgot. It didn't take long for you guys to get way over my head, but I find it interesting. It is only by happenstance that I ended up with the parttime TC and it turns out to be a good thing for me since I flat tow. I got a non Sas BB and tried to get 4A but couldn't. My BB doesn't have FAD either, a quirk of the 4.27 gears, So I have a win win.

Remembering that other thread, I hypothesized this could be the issue flat towing 4As. The TC relies on the clutches to disengage the front in neutral also and I believe they might not fully disengage leading to rotation of the transmission output.

 

[MayhemMike]

Don’t use sand mode. Just use standard 4x4 . Saves on the Bronco. Sand mode is a gimmick.

 

[crenca]

it seems that the Bronco with advanced transfer case only uses the clutch fully engaged as 4H and 4L "lock." There doesn't seem to be any actual locking fork

What is the other thread? Based on the power distribution gauge and my seat of the pants feel/judgement, I think the clutch pack in 4A is (usually) on/off, fully engaged or disengaged. In other words when the computer decides to send torque to front axle, it (usually) fully engages (i.e. "locks") the clutch pack. So with 4A I don't think the clutch pack spends a lot of the time 'slipping' and thus differentiating and obviously in a mode where friction caused heat would be a primary result.

This is not to say that 4A does not add significant heat with its use, though if I'm right the computer algorithm would seem to mitigate it...

 

[SierraBronco]

What is the other thread? Based on the power distribution gauge and my seat of the pants feel/judgement, I think the clutch pack in 4A is (usually) on/off, fully engaged or disengaged. In other words when the computer decides to send torque to front axle, it (usually) fully engages (i.e. "locks") the clutch pack. So with 4A I don't think the clutch pack spends a lot of the time 'slipping' and thus differentiating and obviously in a mode where friction caused heat would be a primary result.

This is not to say that 4A does not add significant heat with its use, though if I'm right the computer algorithm would seem to mitigate it...

It uses a ball ramp to give variability to how much power it is sending to the front. I'll look for that other thread.

 

[SierraBronco]

What is the other thread? Based on the power distribution gauge and my seat of the pants feel/judgement, I think the clutch pack in 4A is (usually) on/off, fully engaged or disengaged. In other words when the computer decides to send torque to front axle, it (usually) fully engages (i.e. "locks") the clutch pack. So with 4A I don't think the clutch pack spends a lot of the time 'slipping' and thus differentiating and obviously in a mode where friction caused heat would be a primary result.

This is not to say that 4A does not add significant heat with its use, though if I'm right the computer algorithm would seem to mitigate it...

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/transfer-case-technical-discussion.52097/page-19#post-2489798

 

[Tom801]

I’ve always wondered how you get the sand out of all of the running gear and seals to prevent eventual catastrophic damage from driving around in the sand.

I wasn't driving in anything too deep till I got stuck, I imagine Ford would have done some due diligence to make a vehicle with a built in "sand mode" have tight enough setup underneath to not let too much sand in (but that might be naive thinking and I ain't a mech).
I gave it a spray down underneath once I could reach a car wash, read another post on the forums where people were saying rinses should help keep things clear and running well.

 

[Tom801]

Status update, I believe the first response mentioning the T Case getting too hot was the issue. I let the truck sit for a few hours when I got back to camp and when I hopped in to move it the message was gone, so all seems to be well and working after driving home and spraying down the undercarriage to be sure, can swap between 2 and 4 wheel and GOAT modes no issues

 

[Tom801]

Don’t use sand mode. Just use standard 4x4 . Saves on the Bronco. Sand mode is a gimmick.

Huh really? That's too bad, but I didn't plan on going into super deep stuff like that again if I can help it so I guess it doesn't matter much anyhow, thought I could finally make use of one of the GOAT modes since I'm always in standard

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