Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!

[Frankie945]

Ya like I said I’m sure there’s no difference but if you didn’t want to cut and splice wires there’s a way to do it. Either way I’m sure it’s fine. Did you use a resistor? Not really a sure how much of a difference that makes either but the guy at PNP was pretty Adamant about using one.

No resistor. I do have a rockford fosgate line output converter to low level rca I thought about using. I read some people getting better sound out of the rca cables on certain amps but who knows unless you try.

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[Phattymatty]

Has anyone installed with the JBL Soundbar?

I’m going to install the sound bar tomorrow. Installed the kicker key tonight.

 

[22BlackDiamondGreen]

I’m going to install the sound bar tomorrow. Installed the kicker key tonight.

Make sure you get the radio reprogrammed so the bass goes to rear speakers …. It will sound like. Crap till that’s done ….. my sound bar is in I’m just wait for my wiring harness

 

[longwoodknight]

I installed mine today. Super easy, great harness from plug and play. OMG did this change the system. I had swapped the speakers previously and did the JBL sound bar but it still was weak and not very loud. This hits hard now. Can’t wait to do phase two with the compact kicker powered 10. You all have to do this upgrade.

 

[Papa Smurf]

I’ve been piecing my system together a little at a time in the evening this week. Today I finally tied it all together. Hideaway 10 wired in. Key setup complete. A huge thanks to Plugnplay for an awesome product. For the speakers, I used the Metra harnesses for the 6.75” and found someone that had made harnesses for the 4” (they fit perfectly). The only wire crimping that I had to do for the entire system was in the power and ground for the sub. As stated by another, the Key with the 10” Hideaway gives an unreal level of improvement.

 

[TheShark]

I installed the Kicker Key on Saturday, thanks to 67BroncoG1 for the original post and video. The plug and play harness really made for a quick installation. I ended up mounting it under the steering wheel on the metal crash plate, it's like the plate was made for the Kicker. Also if I need to adjust it I can just pop the panel and have easy access. I already had installed KICKER CS Series 4" speakers front and rear, and Powerbass OE652-FD 6.5" speakers in the footwells. The only problem I had was doing the auto setup, I downloaded the pink noise mp3 file from Kicker and ran it from my phone using USB, not a good idea as I found out. Tried the auto setup 3 times and it failed each time. So I download the mp3 to a USB stick and ran it from there, worked the first time. I have a couple of 300 hz bass blockers which I'm going to add to the front 4" speakers and then I need to do a little more fine tuning but all in all I'm pretty happy.

 

[KeithK]

I’ve been piecing my system together a little at a time in the evening this week. Today I finally tied it all together. Hideaway 10 wired in. Key setup complete. A huge thanks to Plugnplay for an awesome product. For the speakers, I used the Metra harnesses for the 6.75” and found someone that had made harnesses for the 4” (they fit perfectly). The only wire crimping that I had to do for the entire system was in the power and ground for the sub. As stated by another, the Key with the 10” Hideaway gives an unreal level of improvement.

Hideaway in the back or under a seat?

 

[Papa Smurf]

Hideaway in the back or under a seat?

In the back. Under the seat would take some aggressive wrenching

 

[longwoodknight]

Where specifically in the back did you mount the hideaway? I held off on doing it at the same time as the key as I am putting dynamat in and wanted to scout locations

 

[Tamarak]

so basically the way its laid out is that he has a harness and then pairs it with what you want
maybe you want a sub or a line out converter or a whatever
auto sound electronics are too complicated thats why its seems all over the place but if you know what you're looking for its actually really cool.
the best deal to me is the kit 26 because you get the kicker key 200.4 and the 500 .1 which will you give power for the main speakers and a power for a sub and the sub all prewired so you basically plug it in and your golden! i mean that's a 3000$ system at a shop and hes got it all buttoned up !~ for only $900

This is exactly what I want to do. A few questions…

(1) Has anyone tried these plugnplay harnesses that include the sub connection?
(1a) How do you connect the sub from the 500.1? Stupid question, but is that plug n play as well?
(1b)Do you still have to run power for the sub to the battery

(2) Any good ideas of where to put the 500.1? It would be nice if it was only the sub exposed.

Regarding other parts of this whole thread (19 pages at this post) I wanted to leave a few comments I think could help others. In my build, i installed kicker KS from Crutchfield for the 4’ and the 6.5”.

For the 4" speakers a lot of people haven’t found connectors and I located a post where a guy used these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XF11XMC/ref=pe_386300_440135490_TE_item

Not a true match, but you can make it work and the connections are snug. It’s a hack but it worked for me and I avoided soldering.

I used the shallow mount boom mats in all 4" locations and crutchfield bass blockers in the front. I forgot to install these to start and after a day of testing decided they were needed. It’s night and day so don’t skip the bass blockers.
The 6.5" can be replaced with 6.75" and crutchfield sells a mounting ring for them to adjust to factory as well as plug play connectors. I also used boom mats in the kickpanels, but this was a very tight fit.

One last piece of advice. Take it easy on removing the plastic cover for the two 4s in the front. The clip of upper left side of the cover ofn the drivers side and the upper right side of the cover on the passenger side are weak as hell. I broke one and it’s 5 weeks to get it from Ford and $16. I super glued it for now.
All in all this is a massive improvement compared to factory, but I would concur with others that an amp will be needed to get a really good sound from the speakers.

 

[cmcbronco]

This is exactly what I want to do. A few questions…

(1) Has anyone tried these plugnplay harnesses that include the sub connection?
(1a) How do you connect the sub from the 500.1? Stupid question, but is that plug n play as well?
(1b)Do you still have to run power for the sub to the battery

(2) Any good ideas of where to put the 500.1? It would be nice if it was only the sub exposed.

Regarding other parts of this whole thread (19 pages at this post) I wanted to leave a few comments I think could help others. In my build, i installed kicker KS from Crutchfield for the 4’ and the 6.5”.

For the 4" speakers a lot of people haven’t found connectors and I located a post where a guy used these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XF11XMC/ref=pe_386300_440135490_TE_item

Not a true match, but you can make it work and the connections are snug. It’s a hack but it worked for me and I avoided soldering.

I used the shallow mount boom mats in all 4" locations and crutchfield bass blockers in the front. I forgot to install these to start and after a day of testing decided they were needed. It’s night and day so don’t skip the bass blockers.
The 6.5" can be replaced with 6.75" and crutchfield sells a mounting ring for them to adjust to factory as well as plug play connectors. I also used boom mats in the kickpanels, but this was a very tight fit.

One last piece of advice. Take it easy on removing the plastic cover for the two 4s in the front. The clip of upper left side of the cover ofn the drivers side and the upper right side of the cover on the passenger side are weak as hell. I broke one and it’s 5 weeks to get it from Ford and $16. I super glued it for now.
All in all this is a massive improvement compared to factory, but I would concur with others that an amp will be needed to get a really good sound from the speakers.

If you message plug n play they will point you in the right direction as to what you need for a sub. The plug has empty slots on the amp side that he uses for the power sub taps. Like myself I ordered the wrong harness but was able to make it work because the harness is set up to add the sub taps.
you will have to run a separate power and ground for the 500.1.
for mounting you could go under the dash, a seat, or in the hidden cubby in the cargo area.

 

[roofone2]

This is exactly what I want to do. A few questions…

(1) Has anyone tried these plugnplay harnesses that include the sub connection?
(1a) How do you connect the sub from the 500.1? Stupid question, but is that plug n play as well?
(1b)Do you still have to run power for the sub to the battery

(2) Any good ideas of where to put the 500.1? It would be nice if it was only the sub exposed.

Regarding other parts of this whole thread (19 pages at this post) I wanted to leave a few comments I think could help others. In my build, i installed kicker KS from Crutchfield for the 4’ and the 6.5”.

For the 4" speakers a lot of people haven’t found connectors and I located a post where a guy used these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XF11XMC/ref=pe_386300_440135490_TE_item

Not a true match, but you can make it work and the connections are snug. It’s a hack but it worked for me and I avoided soldering.

I used the shallow mount boom mats in all 4" locations and crutchfield bass blockers in the front. I forgot to install these to start and after a day of testing decided they were needed. It’s night and day so don’t skip the bass blockers.
The 6.5" can be replaced with 6.75" and crutchfield sells a mounting ring for them to adjust to factory as well as plug play connectors. I also used boom mats in the kickpanels, but this was a very tight fit.

One last piece of advice. Take it easy on removing the plastic cover for the two 4s in the front. The clip of upper left side of the cover ofn the drivers side and the upper right side of the cover on the passenger side are weak as hell. I broke one and it’s 5 weeks to get it from Ford and $16. I super glued it for now.
All in all this is a massive improvement compared to factory, but I would concur with others that an amp will be needed to get a really good sound from the speakers.

I’ve seen the 500.1 mounted under a seat: that’s what I’m planning on trying.

 

[Papa Smurf]

This is exactly what I want to do. A few questions…

(1) Has anyone tried these plugnplay harnesses that include the sub connection?
(1a) How do you connect the sub from the 500.1? Stupid question, but is that plug n play as well?
(1b)Do you still have to run power for the sub to the battery

(2) Any good ideas of where to put the 500.1? It would be nice if it was only the sub exposed.

Regarding other parts of this whole thread (19 pages at this post) I wanted to leave a few comments I think could help others. In my build, i installed kicker KS from Crutchfield for the 4’ and the 6.5”.

For the 4" speakers a lot of people haven’t found connectors and I located a post where a guy used these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XF11XMC/ref=pe_386300_440135490_TE_item

Not a true match, but you can make it work and the connections are snug. It’s a hack but it worked for me and I avoided soldering.

I used the shallow mount boom mats in all 4" locations and crutchfield bass blockers in the front. I forgot to install these to start and after a day of testing decided they were needed. It’s night and day so don’t skip the bass blockers.
The 6.5" can be replaced with 6.75" and crutchfield sells a mounting ring for them to adjust to factory as well as plug play connectors. I also used boom mats in the kickpanels, but this was a very tight fit.

One last piece of advice. Take it easy on removing the plastic cover for the two 4s in the front. The clip of upper left side of the cover ofn the drivers side and the upper right side of the cover on the passenger side are weak as hell. I broke one and it’s 5 weeks to get it from Ford and $16. I super glued it for now.
All in all this is a massive improvement compared to factory, but I would concur with others that an amp will be needed to get a really good sound from the speakers.

I had the Boom mats in for a day, then removed ‘em due to poor performance.

 

[Papa Smurf]

Where specifically in the back did you mount the hideaway? I held off on doing it at the same time as the key as I am putting dynamat in and wanted to scout locations

Right now, the Hideaway is not so hidden just sitting in the rear cargo area. I’m still trying to decide where it works best.

 

[ejaffe]

Has anyone tried to split the speakers in the back and add a 6 ½" (or 8") speakers to the existing 4" speaker (similar to what is already done in the front?) Seems with the kicker amp there would be the power to do so and mounting a couple speaker to the rear cargo area panels may be easy to do.

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