Windshield washer reservoir leaking - how to replace?

[sccohen]

My fluid reservoir is leaking into the wheel well (a well-documented issue on this site... Ford seems to have taken note of...)
How do I access the reservoir from inside fender? Any videos anyone can point to?
I may be out-of-warranty (2021 FE), so seems like a fix can do myself?

Thanks,
Scott

Sponsored

 

[VirginiaHeritage]

My fluid reservoir is leaking into the wheel well

For what it’s worth, I’ve fixed many a leak with JB waterweld. If you can locate the leaky spot on the reservoir and it is small, and you don’t want to remove and replace the whole thing, that might be worth trying.

Edit: I’ve mostly used the epoxy stick version (like putty) on fiberglass tanks, metal pipes, and composite pipe connectors. They also make a 2-part syringe version that looks more like glue and might bond better with certain plastics.

 

[CalvinT]

You you have to remove the fender liner. You'll have to remove the neck first.

Since you have to remove the fender liner to get access to any leak, you might as well just replace the reservoir.

 

[Knownman]

You you have to remove the fender liner. You'll have to remove the neck first.

Since you have to remove the fender liner to get access to any leak, you might as well just replace the reservoir.

Apparently Ford has made a revision to the washer fluid reservoir. What used to be a $27 item is now around $74 plus two new hoses that add up to over $130 in total for parts alone. I just placed an order for the original replacement part only to be called back that it's been removed from their warehouses and then was told I'd have to buy all these new items. Which I didn't do as I was pissed.

 

[NigelB]

So I have the same problem! The tank is cracked and it being polyprop it will almost certainly fail if I try to repair it.
So I look everywhere online and local for the part number M2DZ-17618-A and yes its listed around $73. Most of the Ford pats sites list it as in-stock, but when you go through the entire ordering process they all say back ordered.
So I talk to the local ford parts rep and he says that order number is now discontinued and they've changed the order number to M2DZ-17618-B. Same part but the price is now $265-330 depending on the dealer.
So Ford has supplied a piece of crap and seen an opportunity to make a significant profit from their poor quality control.
Oh and the supplied delivered cost to Ford, for the order volumes would be in the vicinity of $12-14 (before the new tariffs).

 

[Knownman]

So I have the same problem! The tank is cracked and it being polyprop it will almost certainly fail if I try to repair it.
So I look everywhere online and local for the part number M2DZ-17618-A and yes its listed around $73. Most of the Ford pats sites list it as in-stock, but when you go through the entire ordering process they all say back ordered.
So I talk to the local ford parts rep and he says that order number is now discontinued and they've changed the order number to M2DZ-17618-B. Same part but the price is now $265-330 depending on the dealer.
So Ford has supplied a piece of crap and seen an opportunity to make a significant profit from their poor quality control.
Oh and the supplied delivered cost to Ford, for the order volumes would be in the vicinity of $12-14 (before the new tariffs).

I found the solution for this issue. In a nutshell I plastic welded the crack. There are a few gussets on the tank which are super thick and probably over done. I cut a long thin strip from one of these to use as a filler rod. Then I used a butane torch, one for heating heat shrink, and heated the part up and used the strip of Polypropylene to fill it in. I cooled it off with a hand held high speed blower and tested it with some water. All is good. Took a bit of burping of the system to get it to charge the hoses but once it was done I got a $0 repair.
Of course that was after I spent 7 bucks on some plastic weld, and another 9 on some other plastic bond, and attempted to use a few versions of super glue. None of those will work BTW.

It's been about a month now and everything is working perfectly.

 

[Desert_Brush]

I found the solution for this issue. In a nutshell I plastic welded the crack. There are a few gussets on the tank which are super thick and probably over done. I cut a long thin strip from one of these to use as a filler rod. Then I used a butane torch, one for heating heat shrink, and heated the part up and used the strip of Polypropylene to fill it in. I cooled it off with a hand held high speed blower and tested it with some water. All is good. Took a bit of burping of the system to get it to charge the hoses but once it was done I got a $0 repair.
Of course that was after I spent 7 bucks on some plastic weld, and another 9 on some other plastic bond, and attempted to use a few versions of super glue. None of those will work BTW.

It's been about a month now and everything is working perfectly.

An actual repair vs replacing it? How's corporate going to make money that way?

 

[Knownman]

An actual repair vs replacing it? How's corporate going to make money that way?

I know! How weird is this?

I couldn't stomach the $200 repair bill for something that should have never broke in the first place.

 

[TexasFishDoc]

Appreciate the links above and commentary as I’ve had a leaking reservoir for 3 months on my ‘22 Wildtrak Bronco. I had similar crack as @Knownman around 9 o’clock at motor area-used some Gorilla Glue and no leaks.

Made a quick ~2min video on removing the tank, I couldn’t find one…

 

[GPPBronco]

Appreciate the links above and commentary as I’ve had a leaking reservoir for 3 months on my ‘22 Wildtrak Bronco. I had similar crack as @Knownman around 9 o’clock at motor area-used some Gorilla Glue and no leaks.

Made a quick ~2min video on removing the tank, I couldn’t find one…

How is the gorilla glue holding up?

 

[TexasFishDoc]

Still solid! No leaks

Sponsored