Take wheel lock key and grab 4 way tire iron wrench so it fits your key and other side should fit regular lugs.
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I ended up getting an upgraded 1/2 in torque wrench , 1/2 in breaker bar , and 1/2 to 3/4 plus a 1/2 to 7/8 deep well socket to fit the lug nuts and locking nuts which are inconveniently sized differently . Should be equipped to tighten and alternatively remove the nuts and locking nutsI agree with Lifeliberty.
It looks like you broke a 3/8ths drive 3 inch extension. 3/8 drive is not gonna do what you are wanting to do. It's just not heavy enough. Upgrade everything to 1/2 inch drive and you will be fine. Including torque wrench if you want to use one. Also get a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar to remove your lugnuts instead of the torque wrench.
Yes it's safe to drive to the hardware store. For decades I tightened lug nuts by feel without a torque wrench and had no issues. You could have one lug nut missing and make it to the store ok, although I wouldn't make a practice of that on the highway.Hello all and thanks in advance for reading my post. Leaving tomorrow on a 2000 mile road trip with camping and 4x4 involved. Took the final moments of packing to install my new ADVANCED WHEEL LOCKS to secure my 35” 2024 big bend Sasquatch wheels and tires. Started with the spare , easy does it, torqued to 40 ft/lbs per spec. Then I went to install the back right and noticed my torque wrench tops out around 90 FT LBs. figured it turn it all the way up and give it my best shot. Gave it all my might, The adapter snapped before the torque wrench never clicked to indicate it was torqued to spec. the advanced wheel lock adapter doesn’t fit on the standard bronco crow bar. Now I’m stuck with one wheel lock installed and no way to get it off if I need to change the tire on the trip. I assume it’s on there pretty good and tight but don’t know exact torque specs .
What kind of adapter do I need to get (and where to purchase at a moments notice) in order to use the advanced wheel lock key to fit on either the torque wrench (might be faulty) or onto the standard crow bar (no way to gauge torque specs) any advice is appreciated. I understand I wasn’t using the correct tools to begin with and that’s how I get myself into the situation. Also is it safe to drive to the hardware store etc without knowing the torque specs of the wheel lock ? I assume it’s on there pretty good and tight .
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You still need a DCF961!I ended up getting an upgraded 1/2 in torque wrench , 1/2 in breaker bar , and 1/2 to 3/4 plus a 1/2 to 7/8 deep well socket to fit the lug nuts and locking nuts which are inconveniently sized differently . Should be equipped to tighten and alternatively remove the nuts and locking nuts
I called and asked for an adapter about 2 weeks ago and never heard back. I found a remedy thanks to helpful advice from the forum. Leaving first thing in the AM so I’m on a time crunchHave you reached out to AdvancedWheelLocks? Here's their phone contact:
Call or Text:
Toll Free: 1-833-295-6257
Local: 1-219-323-2067
9-5 Central time.
Here’s a vote against antiseize.You still need a DCF961!
Don’t forget your antiseize. Though that then brings up another topic for internet arguments regarding how much the lubrication changes your applied torque and how much you should reduce your settings. And definitely don’t accidentally grab loctite instead of antiseize when doping your lugs. Wifey accidentally did that yesterdayLuckily she caught it and all was remedied. We could also argue about why everything is written as foot pounds instead of pounds foot.
I actually am a mechanic, and I agree that's set to 76.5.If I just stumbled across that in a drawer I would think it’s set to 76.5
Disclaimer - I’m not a mechanic