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Skid Plate Recommendation

OldMetal

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I have a full aluminum set of RCI plates for sale if you’re near north Texas.
I'm just seeing this so and your post was months ago, it is probably too late. But ping me if you still have a set of skid plates for sale. I'm in Dallas.
 

OBX_SAS_2021

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I went with the Ford performance steel set. Only used the fuel tank and transfer case skids as I already have front and engine skid plates. In AZ if anyone is interested them.
 

userdude

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For anyone looking for a decent set of skid plates that won't be challenging anything, go OEM. It's cheap and they work well enough. I whacked mine pretty hard many times before replacing and they stood up just fine. If you have the gas tank skid already, you can probably sell the spare easily enough. The aftermarket there isn't great.

I didn't think the capable bumper fit them, though. I could be wrong, but I thought they only fit the mod bumper. There's also a plastic bumper that I'm pretty sure won't fit, or at least won't look right.
 

23OBX2.7

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For anyone looking for a decent set of skid plates that won't be challenging anything, go OEM. It's cheap and they work well enough. I whacked mine pretty hard many times before replacing and they stood up just fine. If you have the gas tank skid already, you can probably sell the spare easily enough. The aftermarket there isn't great.

I didn't think the capable bumper fit them, though. I could be wrong, but I thought they only fit the mod bumper. There's also a plastic bumper that I'm pretty sure won't fit, or at least won't look right.
OEM is under rated because so thin but it's AHSS that no aftermarket has or can afford to make with die costs and pressing if can get a set cheap it's pure gold.
 

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userdude

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OEM is under rated because so thin but it's AHSS that no aftermarket has or can afford to make with die costs and pressing if can get a set cheap it's pure gold.
I dunno, people talk about "thin" but honestly most people don't need structural strength, they just need the rock not to rip into their shit. The OEM does that just fine and it's not that expensive. YMMV.

Ford Bronco Skid Plate Recommendation IMG_1747
 

NC_Oak

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here's my redneck 2 cents - people should know if they need MORE than the ford skids. if yall's wheeling spots have decent sized fixed rocks that the bronco literally lands on, probably need something more substantial. if it is just incidental contact with crap then ford is probably fine. I was out with a buddy with a badlands yesterday and the ford gas tank skid is pretty solid. he gouged the crap out of it and it held up fine. However, had that rock been on his centerline I'd be concerned.

Short version, if you end up bashing rocks buy something else. but you know when you're into the shit, if you aint, ford should suffice
 

SierraBronco

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here's my redneck 2 cents - people should know if they need MORE than the ford skids. if yall's wheeling spots have decent sized fixed rocks that the bronco literally lands on, probably need something more substantial. if it is just incidental contact with crap then ford is probably fine. I was out with a buddy with a badlands yesterday and the ford gas tank skid is pretty solid. he gouged the crap out of it and it held up fine. However, had that rock been on his centerline I'd be concerned.

Short version, if you end up bashing rocks buy something else. but you know when you're into the shit, if you aint, ford should suffice
Wifey's rig gets UHMW clad aluminum belly skids from Next Venture Motorsports. Mine has their sliders coming, but it won't be in the rocks nearly as bad as hers. OEM skids will be fine for mine.
 

23OBX2.7

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here's my redneck 2 cents - people should know if they need MORE than the ford skids. if yall's wheeling spots have decent sized fixed rocks that the bronco literally lands on, probably need something more substantial. if it is just incidental contact with crap then ford is probably fine. I was out with a buddy with a badlands yesterday and the ford gas tank skid is pretty solid. he gouged the crap out of it and it held up fine. However, had that rock been on his centerline I'd be concerned.

Short version, if you end up bashing rocks buy something else. but you know when you're into the shit, if you aint, ford should suffice
They are a sacrificial layer so consider them a consumable if into it hard frequently ......anything 5000lb+ for hard core frequently is the wrong vehicle if can't or do t want to spend $10K year on various hard part consumables. Even my dirt bike costs $3K year for tires, skid plates, sprockets, chains, bibmoose, oil, filters, valve adjustments and maybe a wheel here and there as well as radiators, hand grips and levers.....off roading is costly.
 

brneyemomma

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Techun

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I've been researching lately myself. Some thoughts to help choose what's right for you...

Aluminum saves weight vs steel, but a full set (even w/o gas tank) is still heavier than stock plates. From what I can find the stock plates on a 4dr Badlands is 46 lbs. For a set of well designed alumininum (1/4") I was looking at, they would add 45 lbs over stock. The steel version (3/16") would add 115 lbs over stock.

If you have any experience with metal at all, you know aluminum fatigues from bending much easier. It doesn't weld easily, and in general it's just not going to be as strong or durable as a "bash" plate. It is lighter, and it doesn't rust. So those are the good points.

After numerous video reviews showing real world usage, I've concluded that alum is suitable for some but not all cases. It appears to be a good option for:
  • Overlanders who will rarely wheel on trails rated more than a 4 (of 10), and so will not really come across many situation where they're really banging the plates, they're for that one rare emergency, and minimizing weight is more important.
  • Regions where offroading doesn't equate to rock bashing -- sand, mud, dirt, maybe some tree stumps, but not much smacking into pointy things.
  • That would apply to desert/"baja" type of high speed off-roading as well -- not as likley to be bashing rocks or tree stumps.
  • Trucks with very high clearances -- again, a lot less rock bashing on regular trails, unless you're counting on them on purpose doing some boulder hopping.
  • Competition rigs where saving the weight is useful, but there's also a budget to treat the plates as consumables.
Otherwise, if you're expecting to come across rocks, ledges, tree stumps, etc. then you really should consider steel.

Any good set of plates would ideally include (cheap ones don't):
  • Coverage for the front lower A arm mounting points
  • Stiffeners across large spans to reduce bending (a bent plate right next to a critical part isn't protecting much)
  • Either recessed bolt mounts, or bolt shrouds
  • Air flow openings to prevent excess temperature build up
  • Drainage holes to prevent water pooling or mud build up
  • Access for regular maintenance items without removing the whole plate.
From there you can look at 1/8" (light), 3/16" (common), 1/4" (heavy) options for weight and price.

IMO, frequency isn't the issue as much as the type of trail. I don't go frequently, but I do want to play near the limit. I'm in the west, so it's mostly rocky trails -- with no extra lift and 33" tires, I need some decent protection. Frequency is a matter of considering the plates as consumables. Do you replace them every 2 years from heavy use, or every 10? (I had thick plates on a 4Runner for the same reasons, and that turned out to be a good choice.)

You may also want to consider the little covers for the rear shock and swing arm mounts. Cover them before they get bent :)

Anyway, that's what I've come up with after some digging.

After collecting that info, I'm starting the shop and compare phase. I have one I like as a starting benchmark, we'll see what I find from there.
The stock Ford ones weigh 150lbs
 

GW48

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The stock Ford ones weigh 150lbs
At 150 lbs that includes the fuel tank cover.

https://www.ford.com/product/steel-...th-modular-front-bumper-for-4door-p2928889026

I can't find the page that stated the 46 lbs (one of the after-market mfrs), but here's another source. The stock plates are not very heavy. Although this list doesn't include the fuel tank cover (which I wasn't including because many after market kits don't inlude a replacement).

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/oem-modular-bumper-and-skid-weights.44823/

The replacement parts difference I was looking at is about right. For an after-market replacement set you're looking at replacing about 50 lbs (maybe 60) of stock plates with about 120 lbs typical for many 3/16" steel kits (with just the main center plates).
 

Desmolicious

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Sorry to ask the obvious, but the Heritage does not come with any skids apart from right at the front? I thought the Sasquatch package which is standard on the HE has skids as a part of the deal?
 

SierraBronco

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Sorry to ask the obvious, but the Heritage does not come with any skids apart from right at the front? I thought the Sasquatch package which is standard on the HE has skids as a part of the deal?
I believe that’s the Badlands. On Wildtrak 2&3 right now. 1&3 only had the diff skid. Number two had full OEM skid options.
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