Skid Plate Recommendation

[Returntothefog]

Hello all!
recently joined the community and just looking to round out my gears!
my ride (4dr 2025 azure grey HE) is mostly a pavement princess but I usually go on some outdoor trips / light off roading a couple times a year.
I'm looking for some addition to the skid plates to the ones came with the car, like on the transmission or fuel tanks etc. I know there are more aftermarket skid plate vendors than I can count but are there recommendations for some lighter options for someone that doesn't go off roading as much, don't want to go too overkill / add too much weight on the car.
Thanks!!

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[SuperDave150]

@Returntothefog - I also am concerned about weight. I installed aluminum skid plates from RCI. I have been extremely pleased with them.
https://rcimetalworks.com/product-c...nco-skid-plates/2021-2023-bronco-skid-plates/

 

[Returntothefog]

@Returntothefog - I also am concerned about weight. I installed aluminum skid plates from RCI. I have been extremely pleased with them.
https://rcimetalworks.com/product-c...nco-skid-plates/2021-2023-bronco-skid-plates/

awesome. I know RCI is also well regarded in the community.
besides, the MPG is bad enough on its own , no need to add on all that extra weight

 

[Returntothefog]

@Returntothefog - I also am concerned about weight. I installed aluminum skid plates from RCI. I have been extremely pleased with them.
https://rcimetalworks.com/product-c...nco-skid-plates/2021-2023-bronco-skid-plates/

Oh, on that note. Did u get the whole set or did u Just get the transmission and transfer case and still using the OEM engine skid plate

 

[Mdsuits]

If you are willing to spend the coin. Next venture

 

[Returntothefog]

If you are willing to spend the coin. Next venture

Just check and oh my lord. Maybe one day

 

[MNBigfoot]

The OEM skid plate kit cost around $650 with the typical discount. It includes a well built gas tank skid that is usually left off the aftermarket kits, and those companies generally want around $600 for that skid alone, and many of those aren't as sturdy. And while it also includes the engine, transfer case, front bash (which you probably already have), and fuel tank, it is missing the transmission plate.
You can also use your Ford Points on them, if purchasing through Ford Accessories. It ships free to some dealerships but not all.

$870 full price, $217 off if using a 25% code.
https://www.ford.com/product/steel-...MIku2jjJ-JjQMVB0n_AR0MNBhcEAQYASABEgIc0PD_BwE

 

[Returntothefog]

The OEM skid plate kit cost around $650 with the typical discount. It includes a well built gas tank skid that is usually left off the aftermarket kits, and those companies generally want around $600 for that skid alone, and many of those aren't as sturdy. And while it also includes the engine, transfer case, front bash (which you probably already have), and fuel tank, it is missing the transmission plate.
You can also use your Ford Points on them, if purchasing through Ford Accessories. It ships free to some dealerships but not all.

$870 full price, $217 off if using a 25% code.
https://www.ford.com/product/steel-...MIku2jjJ-JjQMVB0n_AR0MNBhcEAQYASABEgIc0PD_BwE

The OEM one is what I initially settled on but it’s only for vehicles with a modular front bumper and my heritage edition came with the capable front bumper. Is it worth it to also swap out the bumper or do u think it would be compatible with the capable bumper?

 

[GW48]

I've been researching lately myself. Some thoughts to help choose what's right for you...

Aluminum saves weight vs steel, but a full set (even w/o gas tank) is still heavier than stock plates. From what I can find the stock plates on a 4dr Badlands is 46 lbs. For a set of well designed alumininum (1/4") I was looking at, they would add 45 lbs over stock. The steel version (3/16") would add 115 lbs over stock.

If you have any experience with metal at all, you know aluminum fatigues from bending much easier. It doesn't weld easily, and in general it's just not going to be as strong or durable as a "bash" plate. It is lighter, and it doesn't rust. So those are the good points.

After numerous video reviews showing real world usage, I've concluded that alum is suitable for some but not all cases. It appears to be a good option for:

• Overlanders who will rarely wheel on trails rated more than a 4 (of 10), and so will not really come across many situation where they're really banging the plates, they're for that one rare emergency, and minimizing weight is more important.
• Regions where offroading doesn't equate to rock bashing -- sand, mud, dirt, maybe some tree stumps, but not much smacking into pointy things.
• That would apply to desert/"baja" type of high speed off-roading as well -- not as likley to be bashing rocks or tree stumps.
• Trucks with very high clearances -- again, a lot less rock bashing on regular trails, unless you're counting on them on purpose doing some boulder hopping.
• Competition rigs where saving the weight is useful, but there's also a budget to treat the plates as consumables.

Otherwise, if you're expecting to come across rocks, ledges, tree stumps, etc. then you really should consider steel.

Any good set of plates would ideally include (cheap ones don't):

• Coverage for the front lower A arm mounting points
• Stiffeners across large spans to reduce bending (a bent plate right next to a critical part isn't protecting much)
• Either recessed bolt mounts, or bolt shrouds
• Air flow openings to prevent excess temperature build up
• Drainage holes to prevent water pooling or mud build up
• Access for regular maintenance items without removing the whole plate.

From there you can look at 1/8" (light), 3/16" (common), 1/4" (heavy) options for weight and price.

IMO, frequency isn't the issue as much as the type of trail. I don't go frequently, but I do want to play near the limit. I'm in the west, so it's mostly rocky trails -- with no extra lift and 33" tires, I need some decent protection. Frequency is a matter of considering the plates as consumables. Do you replace them every 2 years from heavy use, or every 10? (I had thick plates on a 4Runner for the same reasons, and that turned out to be a good choice.)

You may also want to consider the little covers for the rear shock and swing arm mounts. Cover them before they get bent

Anyway, that's what I've come up with after some digging.

After collecting that info, I'm starting the shop and compare phase. I have one I like as a starting benchmark, we'll see what I find from there.

 

[Bearcat1]

The OEM one is what I initially settled on but it’s only for vehicles with a modular front bumper and my heritage edition came with the capable front bumper. Is it worth it to also swap out the bumper or do u think it would be compatible with the capable bumper?

The OEM front skid plate should be the same for both the Modular and Capable bumpers. There is only one skid plate for both bumpers, interchangeable.

 

[Callelk]

On my HE I went with ASFIR. Easy install by myself to include 4-door fuel tank. The skid plates took a beating over the bird season on Idaho sharp rocks and lava and are holding up great.

I thought about steel, but we throw brine on the roads here during the winter and i have better things to do during the summer than sandblast and paint steel. Besides, unless you rock crawl a LOT (Rubicon or equal a couple of times a year), steel is unnecessary.

I was way more concerned with tires which is why I dumped the GY's and went with MT Baja Boss AT's. Seen way to many sidewall failures from sharp rocks in the Owyhee mountains.

 

[SuperDave150]

Oh, on that note. Did u get the whole set or did u Just get the transmission and transfer case and still using the OEM engine skid plate

I got the whole set. Installed myself except for help of 1 person when I did the gas tank - and that was mostly to help ensure I didn’t drop it and rip all those wires & hoses out.
BTW it also works perfectly with Roadmaster towing brackets if you flat tow.

 

[MNBigfoot]

The OEM one is what I initially settled on but it’s only for vehicles with a modular front bumper and my heritage edition came with the capable front bumper. Is it worth it to also swap out the bumper or do u think it would be compatible with the capable bumper?

As mentioned it's fits, it's the same kit that's on the Black Diamond that comes with the capable bumper. I live in the rust belt and have never in my life heard of anyone pulling their skid plates and sand blasting them and repainting them. LOL, makes me wonder if they are pulling their aluminum skids every summer to sandblast the entire undercarriage that is also steel covered with salt.... that's just being silly.

 

[NC_Oak]

fuel tank is the priority - and the ford OEM tank skids is pretty solid. Fuel tank should be protected for any bronco hitting a trail that isn't a generally maintained forest road or similar. The tank hangs too low. Next IMO would be the tranny. The plastic cover will be punctured by a stick. For real, it's happened to people on this forum. For light off roading, you'll never hit the front plate.

Where I live trails are rocks, ones that don't move. Therefore, I run 3/16" steel across the board. Got plenty of gouges to justify the weight penalty of steel.

 

[Roach011]

I have a full aluminum set of RCI plates for sale if you’re near north Texas.

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