Recommendation for a good wire tap connector

[Phil B]

I am installing the stage series pocket fog light setup from Diode Dynamics. I am connecting the fogs to the factory harness and headlight switch via a pigtail. To run the amber backlights, I will need to tap the pigtail into the wiring harness that came with the light set. I have a couple of different types of old school wire taps in my toolbox to do this, I could squeeze some dielectric grease in them for waterproofing. Is there a better way? The pigtails and the harness for the lights are from the same manufacturer, I'm surprised they don't integrate together.

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[Brian_B]

None of those taps. The ones that go on a wire and just bite the insulation are universally a bad idea

Use a fuse tap and go to the fuse box, or cut the wire and use an actual connection

https://www.amazon.com/your-orders/...B07ZV4LY54&ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_mob_b_pop_5

 

[Brian_B]

Also there is a generic color code that gets used with respect to wire size and generic terminal connections :

Red - 16AWG
Blue - 14AWG
Yellow - 12AWG

 

[Valhalla]

I second this, although I have used those a ton of times, you end up chasing electrical issues. With a modern vehicle this can trip a sensor having unintended consequences. I use a cheap plug set I got off ebay to make my own electrical connections in such places. You can also pull the plug ends apart and braid a second wire coming out for the connection. Get a set that has the proper crimping pliers for the connector internals. I'm not advocating these just one I found in a quick search for reference.

automotive quick connect hid connector kit sn 48b crimping - Temu

 

[Phil B]

I hate those taps. Just a future failure point. I’m going to run all the way to the upfitter switch connection unless there’s a better way.

 

[Robs]

I am installing the stage series pocket fog light setup from Diode Dynamics. I am connecting the fogs to the factory harness and headlight switch via a pigtail. To run the amber backlights, I will need to tap the pigtail into the wiring harness that came with the light set. I have a couple of different types of old school wire taps in my toolbox to do this, I could squeeze some dielectric grease in them for waterproofing. Is there a better way? The pigtails and the harness for the lights are from the same manufacturer, I'm surprised they don't integrate together.

I solder and shrink wrap my connections. I’ve also used the solder stick connectors with some success but prefer the good old fashioned way

 

[NC_Oak]

I do (or at least used) a fair amount of machine control work and always hated when I came across wire nuts, t-taps, or some crap connection in a control panel. Wago is a brand of stuff I use, and still use in place of wire nuts in residential wiring.

Their snap block connectors could be used. THere may be better options out there but I like these for the uses I've had.

https://www.wago.com/us/discover-wire-and-splicing-connectors#overview

 

[redone17]

I’m interested in this as well. I’ve been putting off tapping into the factory wires for my fog light switch. I’ve seen a few accounts that use PosiTaps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H242NN...47e96b900410a&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

 

[CalvinT]

I solder and shrink wrap my connections. I’ve also used the solder stick connectors with some success but prefer the good old fashioned way

This reply is more general information for others who may want to follow your advice. I'm not saying you're wrong.

Soldering can be good, if you know how to solder. Many people, including many electronics technicians aren't very good at it.

Solder doesn't give a good mechanical connection for splicing wires. It's a sealant, not a glue. You must have a good mechanical connection before applying solder.

You have to be careful when soldering splices. Need to make sure the solder doesn't wick too far into the strands (1 - 1.5 diameters). Too much solder into a stranded wire and it becomes a solid wire with risk of stress fractures.

I prefer high quality self sealing crimp connectors with a crimp window. And a good crimp tool.

If I were to solder a splice, I'd do the same as Robs, and use shrink wrap, the adhesive filled kind, to keep moisture from migrating along the insulation.

 

[murphtron]

I prefer purpose-built wiring harness from 4x4 Trucks or SPV. If not available then crimp (or solder stick) connections. In some cases use Wago connectors if cutting a wire. That’s the last option. Just depends on the scenario.

 

[SingleTurboFD]

I used the SPV harness for my LP6 with amber backlight. Don’t use T Taps.

 

[CalvinT]

Found these pages in Ford's wiring diagrams.

 

[Brian_B]

I do (or at least used) a fair amount of machine control work and always hated when I came across wire nuts, t-taps, or some crap connection in a control panel. Wago is a brand of stuff I use, and still use in place of wire nuts in residential wiring.

Their snap block connectors could be used. THere may be better options out there but I like these for the uses I've had.

https://www.wago.com/us/discover-wire-and-splicing-connectors#overview

I know they aren’t automotive rated, but I admit to using Wagos in my Bronco too when the wires are in awkward spots. I wrap them with friction tape to keep the levers locked. I use them for all the wiring in my house all over the place - wire nuts should go extinct.

Mostly I solder and heat shrink connections though

 

[CalvinT]

I should add this page.

 

[Phil B]

I wound up using weatherpack connectors and doing everything right. I got some stuff from SPV for another project, I can say their products are superior to their competition and they go above and beyond to help their customers.

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