Radiator cleaning questions (2.3L)

[Ducati1098]

Yeah, I was watching the oil temp since it displays a number to monitor. But that's a good reminder that is likely not the temp that triggers the alarm. I didn't know the oil temp is inferred, interesting. I didn't even pay attn to the bar graph temp in the moment. Also wouldn't have thought turning on AC would help oil temps.

Is there a way to see coolant temp number on the gauge cluster? I have not found it poking around yet.

Yeah 230 oil temperature wouldn’t cause a reduced power message. Whatever caused that should’ve set a code though, even if it didn’t set a check engine light.

There’s no way to see the coolant temp on stock cluster, you’d have to use something aftermarket plugged into the OBD2 port that reads data.

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[crenca]

Two thoughts:

As others have noted the oil temp is inferred on 2.3 (not sure about 2.7). I use the Ford Performance doo-hooky thingy that is used to upload the FP tune to show me actual intake air temp, coolant temp, and cylinder head temp. The manual has no tranmission temp sensor I do not believe. Assuming you have check your coolant level and it is good, I would back your plan to triple check your radiator to verify it is not caked in mud even if that means removing the shroud to get a good look. Mud, at least from the soil that can be found around here, can harden into a concrete like consistency that takes alot of water (and time) to chip away at it.

Also, I run the AC just about all the time, even if I am blowing heat. My 2.3 with a manual just seems to depend on it, as the water/cylinder head temps climb even under moderate loads if I don't. I suspect it is a design oversight on Ford's part - the radiator only seems to get enough air (to do its job) with the AC on.

 

[Tonka Bronka]

On the flats we were running 210 to 215, but on longer climbs we crossed 230 several times and got the "reduced power" message on the dash once. This was on Northeast TN, afternoon temps were in the mid-80's.

Manual transmission, and I always to keep the tach at 2k or above on hills, so usually 5th gear uphill on the highway, 6th gear on flats runs.

I think it's possible that you're lugging it a little. Too much boost for too long? Sweet spot is more like 3K in my experience with the same engine and trans, and towing with it. Or you may need a washout. Just my thoughts.

 

[Charley]

As @crenca mentioned, check your radiator again. If you were running trails in Kentucky, whether the DBBB, the KAT, or one of the adventure parks, there is that faux-mud substance called clay. And yes it hardens like concrete.
On my 20219 Ranger I once had a big clump of it attached to inside of a front wheel, caliper and tie rod. Wasn’t too bad when wet and at sub 25 mph on the trail, but above that on the road it was way out of balance. Finally found an old style car wash and with the combination of high pressure and a pry bar I got it removed.

 

[Fillups]

As @crenca mentioned, check your radiator again. If you were running trails in Kentucky, whether the DBBB, the KAT, or one of the adventure parks, there is that faux-mud substance called clay. And yes it hardens like concrete.
On my 20219 Ranger I once had a big clump of it attached to inside of a front wheel, caliper and tie rod. Wasn’t too bad when wet and at sub 25 mph on the trail, but above that on the road it was way out of balance. Finally found an old style car wash and with the combination of high pressure and a pry bar I got it removed.

Yes, that's the area! KY mud/clay mixture. Mostly DBBB trails and also a couple trips to LBL (Land Between the Lakes for those not from around here). LBL mud is a special breed. I'm going to pull off the top shroud this weekend and see if I can get better access for rinsing. I even bought one of the fun radiator Genie wands to try.

I will also try running at higher RPMs, especially on hills. Thx for the tips!

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