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MilesTeg

Badlands
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Many people don't know how to properly care for a click-type torque wrench. For one thing you should always dial them back to zero before storing them so the internal spring doesn't take a set. This isn't a problem with a split-beam design.
You actually need to check the instructions on what to store them at. Some are at lowest setting, some are at 0, some are at a low setting. All my torque wrenches state the storage setting on the gauge.
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crenca

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I forget you have a manual right? Mine is so loud in low range when on and off the clutch. I'm pretty sure it's probably the Dual Mass flywheel.
This sounds right to me - the clanging of the springs running out of travel.

I wonder what it would be like without that play in the drive-line with a traditional single mass flywheel from the aftermarket? What would be chances of breaking something in 4L...sorry off topic
 

GI_Jo_Nathan

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This sounds right to me - the clanging of the springs running out of travel.

I wonder what it would be like without that play in the drive-line with a traditional single mass flywheel from the aftermarket? What would be chances of breaking something in 4L...sorry off topic
Yeah wondering the same, especially with larger grippier tires. Someone posted an article the other day in another thread that talked about that, it basically said that yes there is greater chance of breakage without it.

ETA:
https://outbacktravelaustralia.com.au/4wd-mods-tech-torque/dual-mass-flywheels-explained/
 
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Clubs
 
You made me go check on mine last night when I read your post. I figured I’d check anything that was replaced with my lift and I found front UCA’s and rear LCA’s loose. Not quite how yours were but definitely loose enough to rattle going over bumps/humps.
 

broadicustomworks

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FYI Your bump steer should be noticeably "to the bad" with loose UCA bolts.
It's how I found mine.
Also finally found the culprit for my steering having a "catch" you'd have to push past and then manually recenter after turning the wheel. (Orange straight line added to show what should be straight.)
Turns out to NOT be the rack.
When something doesn't feel right, as frustrating as the seek-n-find can be, definitely check it out.
Ended up replacing the lower shaft as well because that wobbly has been wobblin' for a while now and caused some collateral damage I am sure to that U joint and mating surface.

Ford Bronco PSA - check your torque marks 1788203343234-30
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