It gets worse, because warmed up oil will be significantly more volume than cold oil. I always check my oil hot and make sure it's no higher than MAX. This usually puts it looking about 1/3-1/4 of a quart (depending on vehicle) below max when cold.
It's much worse with brand new oil for whatever reason. To get a clear reading with new oil, I just leave the dipstick out for 10-15 minutes, then one dip, pause, and pull to get a read.
I assume it's something about the dipstick tube having oil drug up it when you pull the stick then dripping...
You can get them professionally done by contacting the maker or various shops that do it for you. Unfortunately, it's very expensive -- sometimes more expensive than buying a new one depending on the wrench.
You can do it yourself with either a commercial tool or with a little ingenuity...
Pre-filling an oil filter is a good idea, but not essential. Residual oil in your engine will protect it well enough for the couple seconds it takes to get oil flowing again. It's not that much different from a cold start after sitting a few days.
I have a 2.3 with the horizontal filter. Rather...
You actually need to check the instructions on what to store them at. Some are at lowest setting, some are at 0, some are at a low setting. All my torque wrenches state the storage setting on the gauge.
Catchcans/oil-water separators are intended to prevent carbon buildup on intake valves. The carbon builds up due to oil vapor in the air that recirculates through the PCV system and thus over the intake valves. The catch can attaches to the recirculation hose and cleans out the oil vapor...
Neither is an official Ford product.
Forscan lets you fiddle with most anything in the car's computer that can be changed, but requires a lot of deep knowledge and manipulating computer encoded settings. Requires a significant amount of computer knowledge, but it's much cheaper.
Flashcal+ is...
4A is a great point for those that drive on ice/snow covered highways. The builder says you can get it on a BB with BD though. Only with SAS with Base and OB
My '03 explorer didn't even have a 2H mode. It had only 4A, 4L, and 4H. It went 200k miles with no problem, other than being somewhat annoying at times.
If an ancient 4A system works fine being engaged 100% of the time with no option to disengage, I'm not worried about a modern one on dry...
There are a lot cheaper ways to get 33" wheels and SAS flares than buying a Badlands with thousands in equipment that you will never need, and only cost you money upfront, in maintenance, and in gas. If I were buying a Bronco for highway travel and wanted 33s I would absolutely just go...
I usually use Pennzoil Platinum, because up until some idiotic decisions were made I was able to get it for $25/5qt. Now it's $45. Luckily I bought 10 jugs a few months ago though I've used 4 for routine changes already.
I'll probably stock up on some Costco, which high quality, while I can...
I'm a blue guy. I looked the other day, and Ford has pretty much removed any decent blues. They are all vaguely bluish greys and teals. Heck, I hate grabber blue but they even nixed that in favor of .. grey.
The only Mustang you can get a decent blue (Argon Metallic) on is the 106k+ Dark Horse...
Yep, Colorado along the front range (i.e. where most of the people live) has similar problems (2/3 of days this summer have been heavy smog even far from Denver) and I'm quite glad we finally adopted some of California's regs built specifically to combat that.
Are those regs perfect? Hell no...