No washer spray

[KevinInChicago]

Changed out the sketchy original pump. 2000 miles and 2 months old on my Bronco. I took it to the dealer since I ran out of time to try myself. Good thing since the pump they originally gave me was the wrong one meant for a higher trim level with camera washer I guess. The old pump screen seems clear and fine, no obstructions or trash in it. It must have some kind of internal problem I guess with the impeller or cavitation or some other defect. It is kind of all plastic welded up so can't get inside without sawing it open. New pump works much better, much higher volume of liquid. The old pump was marked POM which I think means product of Mexico. The new pump is USA made or parts from the USA at least from the markings on the box. Hopefully I am done for a decade now but I just don't trust it. Dealer tried to charge me $400 at first but corrected it to $0 seeing it was warranty. I guess supplying the part and the pump was working when I dropped it off threw their system out of whack. Good now. Next time I will do it instead. Here is the proper part number for my Base Bronco and pics of the pump they took out. I did notice that with the new pump, fluid comes out immediately unlike the slight delay before. The new pump that was wrong I got showed it was a product of China. Good luck with those who get those for the higher level Broncos.

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[crenca]

I took it to the dealer since I ran out of time to try myself.

I understand that washer/wiper/sun visor technicians are booked for months out at most dealerships. You got lucky!

(joke people)

 

[Y2KFirehawk]

Another guess is that the impeller is not secured to the motor shaft and maybe RainX washer fluid is too slippery.

Interesting thought because I never saw this before my first fill with RainX sauce….

 

[KevinInChicago]

So far so good with a new pump. I went back and sealed up my hole in the washer fluid lid with a dab of silicone. Researching a bit and found that "POM" on a plastic part is actually a polymer type of hard plastic used in many auto parts and not what I thought "Product of Mexico" but hey it fits. Now why did it fail? From what I read, POM plastic can be attacked by chlorine or some other chemicals. I run RainX in my washer systems of every vehicle I own. Could there be something in RainX that is not in the blue juice that the pump itself can't stand up to? I know in Chrysler products it messes up fluid level sensors with a film. Externally the old pump looked just fine and nothing found in the intake or outlet ports to cause any alarm. The motor itself always ran like it should, it just would not draw or pump out fluid front or rear. Those who blew fuses in the winter point to the fact that the motor can freeze up locking the impeller so it would seem like the impeller is solidly mounted to the motor shaft and did not spin out for that event. That leads me to believe that some of these pumps had a bad mold process or higher clearance internally that causes the problem. The only outside factor is RainX. I see Rainx not for sale in California, Texas, or Maricoupa County Arizona. What do you use down there when it gets cold below freezing? I will have to bootleg some to Texas when I drive down. All I see on the label is methanol which all fluid has. Not sure what the Rainx part of the mix might contain. And who picked orange like coolant color anyway?

 

[Brian_B]

So far so good with a new pump. I went back and sealed up my hole in the washer fluid lid with a dab of silicone. Researching a bit and found that "POM" on a plastic part is actually a polymer type of hard plastic used in many auto parts and not what I thought "Product of Mexico" but hey it fits. Now why did it fail? From what I read, POM plastic can be attacked by chlorine or some other chemicals. I run RainX in my washer systems of every vehicle I own. Could there be something in RainX that is not in the blue juice that the pump itself can't stand up to? I know in Chrysler products it messes up fluid level sensors with a film. Externally the old pump looked just fine and nothing found in the intake or outlet ports to cause any alarm. The motor itself always ran like it should, it just would not draw or pump out fluid front or rear. Those who blew fuses in the winter point to the fact that the motor can freeze up locking the impeller so it would seem like the impeller is solidly mounted to the motor shaft and did not spin out for that event. That leads me to believe that some of these pumps had a bad mold process or higher clearance internally that causes the problem. The only outside factor is RainX. I see Rainx not for sale in California, Texas, or Maricoupa County Arizona. What do you use down there when it gets cold below freezing? I will have to bootleg some to Texas when I drive down. All I see on the label is methanol which all fluid has. Not sure what the Rainx part of the mix might contain. And who picked orange like coolant color anyway?

Methanol is exactly why it can’t be used on CA, etc. usually it’s just in the low temp : non-freeze stuff (often colored red or yellow). Regular blue in CA is just window cleaner. No methanol. I have no idea why.

If you live in an area that can freeze you have to bootleg in additive, or mix in a bit of Isopropyl to keep it from freezing.

 

[KevinInChicago]

well a couple of weeks has passed on the new pump that was installed. I did close up the vent hole I made in the lid after the new pump was put in. After a few days parked in 100 degree heat, same issue again all over. Pump runs, no fluid until you hold it for almost a minute while it spins dry and slowly takes time to get fluid to it to start pumping. If I use it every day, works fine. Heat and a few days of not using it, no prime on fluid to start the flow. Bad Ford design. I would think they would have washer pumps figured out by now. Should I replace it a second time now? It worked perfect after the last install. I really thought it was fixed.

 

[Brian_B]

well a couple of weeks has passed on the new pump that was installed. I did close up the vent hole I made in the lid after the new pump was put in. After a few days parked in 100 degree heat, same issue again all over. Pump runs, no fluid until you hold it for almost a minute while it spins dry and slowly takes time to get fluid to it to start pumping. If I use it every day, works fine. Heat and a few days of not using it, no prime on fluid to start the flow. Bad Ford design. I would think they would have washer pumps figured out by now. Should I replace it a second time now? It worked perfect after the last install. I really thought it was fixed.

Does popping the cap fix it again? May have to redrill your hole.

 

[Fordified1]

Does popping the cap fix it again? May have to redrill your hole.

Or maybe it not being vented damages the pump.

 

[KevinInChicago]

I uncovered the hole that I sealed over and so far no problems since. I filled the container to the rim with RainX and it sat for a couple of days. So replacing the pump and keeping the vent hole has worked so far. I give it 50/50 chance of fixed for now. The only other variable is that my driveway has a slight slope up, like most do. I wonder if the Ranger has any issues since it is built on the same production line and probably shares a lot of parts with the Bronco. The thing is that when it won't spray, the rear won't either so it has to be an issue before both of those lines start.

 

[LMG]

I'm dealing with this issue as well. Takes 4-5 cycles of the washer pump to get fluid to windshield. I tried leaving the washer fill cap open and I could tell that it helped any at all. It's under warranty but the dealer wanted me to drop it off so they could do some testing and I frankly don't have the time or patience for that at the moment.
Any other suggestions/recommendations for a permanent fix or is this just a design flaw in their system?

 

[VirginiaHeritage]

It happens to me on my ‘25. I have to hold the button from 5-10 seconds some days. Other days it’s instant if I have used it recently, like within a few days. I figure it’s a design flaw so there is no point going to the dealer.

 

[Brian_B]

I'm dealing with this issue as well. Takes 4-5 cycles of the washer pump to get fluid to windshield. I tried leaving the washer fill cap open and I could tell that it helped any at all. It's under warranty but the dealer wanted me to drop it off so they could do some testing and I frankly don't have the time or patience for that at the moment.
Any other suggestions/recommendations for a permanent fix or is this just a design flaw in their system?

A lot of folks have found junk inside the reservoir, there is a filter screen on the pump and it's been plugged. Some folks have just had a weak pump. Other folks have found a bad check valve in the line, or a loose connection/leak in the line at various places.

So plenty of things that it ~could~ be.

 

[stevenstommyboy1]

That does it!
I’m designing a washer lid check valve. With a Bronco logo!

Can I get that with a Raptor logo instead. My Braptor has this issue also. Soon to be taken care with a tiny hole in the lid.

 

[itwelder]

I uncovered the hole that I sealed over and so far no problems since. I filled the container to the rim with RainX and it sat for a couple of days. So replacing the pump and keeping the vent hole has worked so far. I give it 50/50 chance of fixed for now. The only other variable is that my driveway has a slight slope up, like most do. I wonder if the Ranger has any issues since it is built on the same production line and probably shares a lot of parts with the Bronco. The thing is that when it won't spray, the rear won't either so it has to be an issue before both of those lines start.

Old thread, but if anyone finds this...
The bottle already has a huge vent, and making your own hole does nothing.

 

[buzzcutt2]

Old thread, but if anyone finds this...
The bottle already has a huge vent, and making your own hole does nothing.

Not true...think of the weight saving!

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