New here.. Speaker upgrade recommendation

[phillykw]

I read some older posts about stereo upgrades and was wondering if there has been any newer developments. I have a 2024 with B &O system which is quite lackluster. Looking to not spend a ton and get the most bang for the buck. I am handy but not a mechanic by any means. Recommendations?

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[Valhalla]

the most bang for the buck

LOL... BANG Olufsen...teeheehee... Hey man I pulled my panels and put kill mat and all around it, blue locktite on the bolts and it actually sounds good after that.

 

[Valhalla]

Oh and...
Welcome!! Now go play in the woods!!

 

[MKC1911]

If you can,go into settings & turn off the surround sound and you will hear a big difference. I did it in my Tremor after reading a post on it & couldn't believe the improvment.

 

[GA2Dr]

I did the tweaks on Forscan before replacing the speakers and found it was a worthwhile improvement. Considering it's essentially free (assuming you have an OBD adapter an a windows laptop), hard to beat bang for the buck-wise.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Its not gonna happen unless fork out the big bucks. Biggest bang is a 1000 W sub amp with integrated LOC connected to sub wires mounted on amp rack feeding an aftermareket OE loaded amp enclosure.

From here upgrade speakers like for like but dont buy cheap ones... Audison AP and APX are plug an play lime for like driver. Sound deadening and absorbing is big bang for buck as well.

 

[That Bronco Guy]

As others have commented already on this thread, the biggest bang for the buck is going to be sound deadening all of your doors and your floor using kiloMatt or dynomat as well as 3M Thinsulate insulation. You’ll probably end up spending about $500 and a few afternoons doing it, but you will realize that the sound system is actually adequate once you quiet down the cabin. I have a video I’m about to put out on my YouTube channel where I actually quiet down my wildtrack similar to a premium SUV such as an Audi Q7. I do sound tests along the way to show what works really well.

the first upgrade before any speakers or amps is the cabin sound. Doing the speakers first is putting the cart before the horse in my opinion

turn off the fake engine noise will free up your speakers and remove the funky engine sounds that muddy the clarity in the cabin but be prepared for a quiet engine. lol.
Also you can turn off the active noise cancellation for even more clear cabin noise but you do hear a slight bit more road noise. Ford did well with the ANC like many other premium auto manufacturers did.

 

[Jer-E-Miah]

crutchfield

 

[trcim4pu]

As others have commented already on this thread, the biggest bang for the buck is going to be sound deadening all of your doors and your floor using kiloMatt or dynomat as well as 3M Thinsulate insulation. You’ll probably end up spending about $500 and a few afternoons doing it, but you will realize that the sound system is actually adequate once you quiet down the cabin. I have a video I’m about to put out on my YouTube channel where I actually quiet down my wildtrack similar to a premium SUV such as an Audi Q7. I do sound tests along the way to show what works really well.

the first upgrade before any speakers or amps is the cabin sound. Doing the speakers first is putting the cart before the horse in my opinion

turn off the fake engine noise will free up your speakers and remove the funky engine sounds that muddy the clarity in the cabin but be prepared for a quiet engine. lol.
Also you can turn off the active noise cancellation for even more clear cabin noise but you do hear a slight bit more road noise. Ford did well with the ANC like many other premium auto manufacturers did.

Like to see a link to your video when you upload it…

 

[themendoza001]

As others have commented already on this thread, the biggest bang for the buck is going to be sound deadening all of your doors and your floor using kiloMatt or dynomat as well as 3M Thinsulate insulation. You’ll probably end up spending about $500 and a few afternoons doing it, but you will realize that the sound system is actually adequate once you quiet down the cabin. I have a video I’m about to put out on my YouTube channel where I actually quiet down my wildtrack similar to a premium SUV such as an Audi Q7. I do sound tests along the way to show what works really well.

the first upgrade before any speakers or amps is the cabin sound. Doing the speakers first is putting the cart before the horse in my opinion

turn off the fake engine noise will free up your speakers and remove the funky engine sounds that muddy the clarity in the cabin but be prepared for a quiet engine. lol.
Also you can turn off the active noise cancellation for even more clear cabin noise but you do hear a slight bit more road noise. Ford did well with the ANC like many other premium auto manufacturers did.

Do you have any early tips? Like where to insulate, especially the roof. I replaced my stock speakers with a Hertz DCX system, and upgraded the rear pods to 6.5”, along with FORSCAN. I also made sure to put Kilmat behind the kick panel speakers and inside of the pods. I had some extra kilmat after so I just put it on the cargo area floor.

 

[Brian_B]

For a 2024 - no, no recent revelations or innovations. The older threads all still apply

Need to identify how much you are willing to spend, and with B&O realize you won’t see major changes without major investment — there are low cost things you can do (like Dynamat) but the impact is going to be pretty minimal until you jump up to some investment.

Bronco audio in general is challenging

 

[That Bronco Guy]

Do you have any early tips? Like where to insulate, especially the roof. I replaced my stock speakers with a Hertz DCX system, and upgraded the rear pods to 6.5”, along with FORSCAN. I also made sure to put Kilmat behind the kick panel speakers and inside of the pods. I had some extra kilmat after so I just put it on the cargo area floor.

Do you have the carpet on the roof? Or is it bare fiberglass?

I used a closed cell foam over the fiberglass roof then you can either buy the stock headliner from ford and stick it over using spray adhesive or buy the textured closed cell foam liner from turn offroad and cover the thin foam. The idea is you want to create panels that trap the noise and absorb them once inside he cabin. That’s what the closed cell foams do and using multiple kinds really helps.

Honestly with all that work you only drop cabin noise 1 DB. Not a lot but the noise you hear is not from the roof. It’s misleading because the noise is actually coming in from bottom along the frame and once inside acts like a ping pong ball bouncing and resonating and well your fiberglass acts like an amazing speaker box. Right by your ears

all that said. Under the rear passenger seat is a bad spot. Mat and thinsulate that. You don’t need to remove the seats but it’s easier. THere is another cross member in rear cargo area under our storage box. Remove that and there is a thin metal brace that tings big time.
Under the foot areas of all seats has thin metal that reverbs where the drain plugs are. Mat those. If you can thinsulate there too. It will build up carpet slightly. Slide thinsulate between carpet and firewall also mat that spot. Mat the cargo areas behind the plastic panels. You don’t have to get 100 percent coverages but I did the entire cargo area , floor and behind panels.
Next is the outer skin of doors and fender well behind tires on front 2 tires firewall. Mat those and ad thinsulate behind the fender Liner and over the mat behind the door panels.

keep in mind, I did manage to have the bronco quieter then an Audi q7 by a lot up to 55 mph… amazing? But after that you have to remember you are driving a BRICK and you will lose the battle to 85 mph as aerodynamics is something that was never designed into the bronco and never should either

the very surprising thing I did was added mat to my full skids on the inside. That was probably one of he biggest frequency change of road noise I did. Also used neoprene washers on the skid bolts. It keeps the sound from traveling across the frame and creates an absorbing effect

I really just need to get the video out .

the floor expect 2-3 db drop , doors another 2-3 and roof 1 db. But all together a very quiet bronco

Your bronco might be quieter than mine as well. I have the icon upper control arm with the heim joints and those dudes add a ton of road noise and I’m on portals as well. Those don’t actually add noise but it pushes the tires out of the wheel well and that does add turbulence and noise.

hope all this helps

 

[phillykw]

I read some older posts about stereo upgrades and was wondering if there has been any newer developments. I have a 2024 with B &O system which is quite lackluster. Looking to not spend a ton and get the most bang for the buck. I am handy but not a mechanic by any means. Recommendations?

Thanks for the answers! I have a soft top which I like so sound deadening won't be the ticket. The clarity stinks and base sucks. I had a wrangler soft top prior to the bronco and the only thing the Jeep had over the Bronco is the stereo. Thinking I need upgrades to the speakers/amp etc as opposed to sound deadening.

 

[Valhalla]

I am straight up telling you, The B&O rattles everything it is mounted to and around. The system actually preforms more like a premium system with some simple deadening liberally applied to the area around and adjacent to the sub. Will you blow women's clothes off in the car next to you? NO, you will however have plenty of sound. This is from a 55-year-old who has spent the last 13 years in an 85+ decibel work environment and played Bass since 17. If you want to spend money have at it. Otherwise look at mine or the numerous other post about deadening the rattle factory around the sub enclosure.

 

[23OBX2.7]

1000 Watt integrated LOC mono block and $1000 loaded 12 sub enclosure solves a majority of system weakness throw in some Audison AP and APX drives and it's close to perfect.

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