MT88 shifting and grinding issues

[Bmurraybronco]

I’ve been driving manual cars for 16 years, all my cars have been manual and that’s why I wanted the Bronco. My last car 2006 Audi a4 has 280000 miles on it and it still shifts like butter.
Now with my new Badlands under 5000 miles on it I noticed when I push the clutch in and shift into any gear it lunges forward a little bit? It’s almost like the clutch isn’t fully disengaging the transmission. This sometimes happens at stop lights if I let the clutch out and press it back in before going into first gear. If I leave the clutch in after rolling to a stop it doesn’t usually do this. It’s very noticeable and the sound it makes is like a clunk almost like the gear/synchro is being slammed to a stop from rotating.

In the video you can see the wheel try to move forward when it shifts into 1st gear and you can hear the clunk. I shift it into first 2 times. Both times releasing the clutch in between.

is this normal for these?

Sponsored

 

[JerryC]

Yeah, not good. Take it in for warranty work. The longer you let it go, the more damage it does.

 

[Bmurraybronco]

Yeah, not good. Take it in for warranty work. The longer you let it go, the more damage it does.

Yeah, not good. Take it in for warranty work. The longer you let it go, the more damage it does.

I have it scheduled for an appointment but not until September 14th. That’s the earliest they have. I think I should not drive it anymore.

any ideas on what it might be before I go in?

 

[JerryC]

I have it scheduled for an appointment but not until September 14th. That’s the earliest they have. I think I should not drive it anymore.

any ideas on what it might be before I go in?

From the way you describe it and the video, I think you are on the right track. The clutch isn't fully disengaging, possibly an issue with the hydraulics.

 

[Ducati1098]

Either air in the hydraulic line or a slave cylinder issue most likely.

 

[kodiakisland]

Can you bleed it at home, or does it require a special tool?

 

[Ducati1098]

Can you bleed it at home, or does it require a special tool?

It’s not very easy to bleed, but depending on what tools someone has at home it may be possible. The easiest way is to pressure bleed it from the master cylinder while also pulling a vacuum on the bleeder near the bell housing.

 

[soldier989]

I get this clunk noise if I let go of the clutch to quickly leaving 1st and going into 2nd. Also when going from 2nd and into 3rd. This noise doesn't occur in 4-6. I mitigate it by letting go of the gas completely before pushing the clutch in. Then shifting to the next gear, letting the clutch out completely, before giving gas. No sport shifting, no slipping the clutch. Just total lazy/slow shifting and it's feels just fine. I also had this noise in my 2017 Mustang GT with the MT82. So I just associate it to "Ford Things".

 

[Bmurraybronco]

Can you bleed it at home, or does it require a special tool?

I’m not sure I haven’t looked. I have a vacuum bleeder for brakes and stuff if I can.

I get this clunk noise if I let go of the clutch to quickly leaving 1st and going into 2nd. Also when going from 2nd and into 3rd. This noise doesn't occur in 4-6. I mitigate it by letting go of the gas completely before pushing the clutch in. Then shifting to the next gear, letting the clutch out completely, before giving gas. No sport shifting, no slipping the clutch. Just total lazy/slow shifting and it's feels just fine. I also had this noise in my 2017 Mustang GT with the MT82. So I just associate it to "Ford Things".

I’ve also noticed that as well. I’m used to shifting quickly in the Audi. But in this like you said, let the gas off, then push the clutch in, then shift, the put the gas back on and it shifts nicely. It also seems there is a rpm hold while you shift. Don’t know if anyone els noticed this. Either way it should not jerk when putting it into gear at a complete stop.

 

[Bmurraybronco]

It’s not very easy to bleed, but depending on what tools someone has at home it may be possible. The easiest way is to pressure bleed it from the master cylinder while also pulling a vacuum on the bleeder near the bell housing.

Does this have a fluid tank? Or is it a sealed system?

 

[soldier989]

I agree @Bmurraybronco , If your not easing the clutch out, I expect some jerking and then that lash noise. If you ease the clutch out, then that 1-2mm of lash isn't slamming, and causing the horrific sound. Instead, it's moving slowly against the metal/gear, and it's quiet.

Keep in mind guys, the computer bumps the RPM to 1k as an anti-stall aid when launching from 1st. If your not used to that, then anytime you quickly let up off the clutch, your dumping the clutch at 1k RPM which will have some elevated torque behind it. It's not like a traditional "old" stick that idles at 800, and will cause the engine to bogg down if you don't balance the clutch and gas. You don't really need to give it any gas to start moving this vehicle. It's quite nice for new stick drivers, but something us old school stick drivers have to get used to.

As for rev hang that was mentioned, It's there a little bit, but nothing like the 2023 Integra I had, or my GFs 23 Impreza. Those have some pretty long rev hang. Again, slow shifting let's the engine RPM drop, and by the time I shift into the next gear (with the aforementioned slow shifting, not touching the gas pedal anytime I have the clutch engaged) the engine is perfectly rev matched with the next gear. I love shifting in this thing.

 

[Ducati1098]

Does this have a fluid tank? Or is it a sealed system?

The clutch shares the brake master cylinder.

 

[Bmurraybronco]

Alright I’ve been fighting this issue for almost a year now. I’m on my 6th time to one dealer and 1st time at a new dealer.
First dealer said there was no issues, funny thing is the mechanic doesn’t drive stick so he had to have the service manager drive it.

After my third time in they took out the transmission and did the TSB but they didn’t replace all the parts on the TSB.
My 4th 5th and 6th time in they said it had no issues.

I took it to a new dealer and they said the transmission has serious issues and they would fix it. I was very glad they agreed. They had it about 2 weeks and I picked it up today to find out it does all the same stuff but even worse now.
Now the Bronco will start moving forward on flat ground without the clutch pushed in.

I am beyond frustrated about this and most likely going to have to Lemon it. Such a shame because I love everything els about it.


Just wanted to give an update on this almost a year later.

 

[Ogre]

Alright I’ve been fighting this issue for almost a year now. I’m on my 6th time to one dealer and 1st time at a new dealer.
First dealer said there was no issues, funny thing is the mechanic doesn’t drive stick so he had to have the service manager drive it.

After my third time in they took out the transmission and did the TSB but they didn’t replace all the parts on the TSB.
My 4th 5th and 6th time in they said it had no issues.

I took it to a new dealer and they said the transmission has serious issues and they would fix it. I was very glad they agreed. They had it about 2 weeks and I picked it up today to find out it does all the same stuff but even worse now.
Now the Bronco will start moving forward on flat ground without the clutch pushed in.

I am beyond frustrated about this and most likely going to have to Lemon it. Such a shame because I love everything els about it.


Just wanted to give an update on this almost a year later.

Years ago I replaced the clutch master cylinder on my '07 Jeep and after a month it started having similar issues. Did a warranty return with oriellys and a month later it started doing it again. For anyone who hasn't bled a clutch.... it takes more pumping than a night with 2 shots of Tequila and 100mg of viagra. I was irritated. So I took the cylinder apart and saw it was only a little plastic slot that allowed more brake fluid in when released. You could see the line on the plastic where the "plunger" wasn't quite hitting this line. Whether this was due to bad tolerances or a weak spring I don't know. But I gently increased the slot to a millimeter past the wear line on the piston cylinder. Drove that thing for another 100k miles till it was wrecked and it shifted like a dream the entire time.

I would assume the Bronco has a similar design. Uses the brake fluid reservoir as a supply, a plastic plunger (Hydraulic cylinder) behind the clutch to build pressure, and a slave cylinder to disengage the clutch. If you're mechanically inclined what I describe above is extremely easy to do and won't be detected by any dealer because they are not taking the clutch master cylinder apart to find out "why". So it's not going to hurt your warranty if it doesn't help. The wear line I'm talking about is pretty obvious when you disassemble the cylinder, if that's the issue. But I assume no responsibility for anyone who attempts this.

 

[JT58Bronc]

A tip for anyone that needs to bleed a Slave Cylinder.........
Bleed from the bottom up. I tried everything the conventional way to bleed top down on the Slave on my 87 Chevy Squarebody- putting brake fluid in at the top, letting it bleed at the bottom- pumping the clutch, even using a vacuum bleeder. Nothing and very frustrating. Not until I hooked up a hose to the bottom bleeder and pumped fluid up into the Master reservoir where my wife was there with a baster sucking it out as I pumped from the bottom until all the air was out. I used a standard gear oil hand pump immersed into the store bought tall brake fluid container with a rubber hose attached directly to the Slave bleed fitting. I used the 90 degree fitting from my vacuum bleeder to get an air tight fit on the bleeder nipple. I pumped until there was no air bubbles visible- may just a pump and a half. 5 minutes and done. Worked so great. A mechanic gave me the tip.

Sponsored