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Installing Everglades OEM snorkel on 2.3L

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Hi folks,

After 60k miles of joy on my 7MT 2.3L and numerous small "OEM+" mods along the way, I'm thinking my next "OEM+ mod" will be to install the Everglades snorkel. Mostly because they're simply fun and I love fun. I have read the other installation threads on this process and think I mostly have my head around it. Thanks to @pandapaul and others.

I like the idea of installing the OEM product, if possible, and I like the execution of the OEM Everglades air filter housing over the design from IAG. Levittown Ford is offering a "kit" that seems home-brewed on their part, but mostly complete. However, that kit does not provide a solution for the washer fluid access, which I believe gets relocated from this installation. I do not like the idea of relocating the washer fluid reservoir with an entirely different reservoir like the actual Everglades trim does. Seems more involved than I I'd like.

Thus, I'm considering doing a hybrid installation of the OEM snorkel paired with some of the parts from the IAG snorkel product that provides a washer fluid reservoir extender that I *believe* would go around the snorkel intake.

My question is: does anyone here see any issue with this idea? @pandapaul I know you installed yours on a 2.7L, but do you have any thoughts on this?
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Jakob1972

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Ooh making a hybrid set up you might find yourself having to fabricate some parts if they don’t play nice with each other. I am sure it can be done. But just might be cleaner if you have a Glades washer fluid tank, I dunno.
but if you need any pictures of a stock Everglade snorkel I can help you there.
 

Smocaine

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Removing the normal washer tank is the hard part - the Everglades bracket and tank mount in the bay and are easily accessible.
NB3Z-7D438-A and NB3Z-4091-A - Everglades tank brackets
N2DZ-17618-A - Everglades washer bottle assembly (includes pump)
I was able to scavenge some hose from my OEM washer assembly to get everything hooked up. I have yet to find the stones to cut the hole - thinking maybe that'll come when my B2B warranty expires.
 
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austincamsmith
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Removing the normal washer tank is the hard part - the Everglades bracket and tank mount in the bay and are easily accessible.
NB3Z-7D438-A and NB3Z-4091-A - Everglades tank brackets
N2DZ-17618-A - Everglades washer bottle assembly (includes pump)
I was able to scavenge some hose from my OEM washer assembly to get everything hooked up. I have yet to find the stones to cut the hole - thinking maybe that'll come when my B2B warranty expires.
Interesting. How “hard” is the original washer tank removal on a scale from “manageable” to “something you’d rather never repeat at all costs”?

My idea of using the IAG washer extender was in an effort to avoid this hassle.
 

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Smocaine

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Interesting. How “hard” is the original washer tank removal on a scale from “manageable” to “something you’d rather never repeat at all costs”?

My idea of using the IAG washer extender was in an effort to avoid this hassle.
It's not terrible but it does require you to remove your front passenger wheel and fender liner.
I am not sure that you would be able to skip this step since the OEM tank may take up too much of the necessary inter-fender space. Notice in this first image how close it is to the snorkel path.
If you can see the backside of the fender from inside the bay at the mating location and it doesn't conflict - and you have a way to fill it - you might be okay. I looked at prices and it seems they want a bit more for those brackets today than I paid.

Ford Bronco Installing Everglades OEM snorkel on 2.3L 716548-23074205cb1cf317935fe6b7110b060a

Ford Bronco Installing Everglades OEM snorkel on 2.3L 716545-030334d71d38df5a12af19a094c379f2
 
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austincamsmith
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It's not terrible but it does require you to remove your front passenger wheel and fender liner.
I am not sure that you would be able to skip this step since the OEM tank may take up too much of the necessary inter-fender space. Notice in this first image how close it is to the snorkel path.
If you can see the backside of the fender from inside the bay at the mating location and it doesn't conflict - and you have a way to fill it - you might be okay. I looked at prices and it seems they want a bit more for those brackets today than I paid.

716548-23074205cb1cf317935fe6b7110b060a.webp

716545-030334d71d38df5a12af19a094c379f2.webp
Removing the wheel and the fender liner - yeeeeesh. That's a bit more lifting that I'd like to engage in. The Bronco is my daily driver and I can't have it be down for a few days should something go wrong mid-operation. It's also those other connecting bits and pieces for those sub-assemblies that have me worried. I can easily imagine a scenario where I get a couple hours into doing this mod, my car is in a bunch of pieces, and the inertial hold of complexity begins to spiral things out of control.

It's discouraging to hear the OEM tank might take up too much space and require such a maneuver. I was hoping I might be able to get away with snapping on the snorkel housing pretty cleanly.
 

Smocaine

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I will say that it didn't take as long or as much effort as I thought, but you would at least need a jack and stand to get the wheel out of the way. From there it's all plastic fasteners that you'd be well served to get replacements for beforehand. It's only held on by a few bolts once you're in there.
You may be able to just droop the wheel, even, but we found it much easier to remove. Either way you'd need a jack.
Since I already have the bottle swap done I can't tell you if it's strictly necessary or not, but mocking it up with the snorkel pieces isn't hard because you have the cowl boltholes to reference from. That should tell you if you even need to do it. Just remember that you'll also need space for the tube to go from there to the back of the airbox.
 
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I will say that it didn't take as long or as much effort as I thought, but you would at least need a jack and stand to get the wheel out of the way. From there it's all plastic fasteners that you'd be well served to get replacements for beforehand. It's only held on by a few bolts once you're in there.
You may be able to just droop the wheel, even, but we found it much easier to remove. Either way you'd need a jack.
Since I already have the bottle swap done I can't tell you if it's strictly necessary or not, but mocking it up with the snorkel pieces isn't hard because you have the cowl boltholes to reference from. That should tell you if you even need to do it. Just remember that you'll also need space for the tube to go from there to the back of the airbox.
I appreciate that overview and think I can visualize it a bit better. I think I have a bit more confidence on this now. Funny, the cutting of the fender is the least of my worries - seems pretty straight forward once you get to that point.
 

C6ZZGT

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It's not terrible but it does require you to remove your front passenger wheel and fender liner.
I am not sure that you would be able to skip this step since the OEM tank may take up too much of the necessary inter-fender space. Notice in this first image how close it is to the snorkel path.
If you can see the backside of the fender from inside the bay at the mating location and it doesn't conflict - and you have a way to fill it - you might be okay. I looked at prices and it seems they want a bit more for those brackets today than I paid.

716548-23074205cb1cf317935fe6b7110b060a.webp

716545-030334d71d38df5a12af19a094c379f2.webp
I think you will find that the 9a624 air tube from the fender goes over top of the washer bottle on its way to the filter.

Ford Bronco Installing Everglades OEM snorkel on 2.3L 1787632485490-oa
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