I thought of doing something like that but when I found the box from RC my inner laziness won
I’m assuming Ford did their litigation homework to determine they’re protected but running anywhere close to 30 amps on any more than a couple feet of 16awg wire (~1.5mm) seems sketchy.So- If I am reading that table correctly, Aux1 & Aux2 have higher load capacity as they are using the 1.5mm wire, but Aux2 is fused at 15A. Since they have the same wire and same switch, Aux2 could simply benefit from a fuse change to 30A... is that correct?
Also- all 'Non-Powered' circuits are designed to support the 30A load as they are prewired with the same 1.5mm wire?
Is there any other literature from Ford indicating the maximum load rating of these circuits in use- or is that their position as stated in the table?
Before I get totally flamed- the Relay option is the best way to power lights and other high load circuits, but does require more effort to run wires to the desired locations...
NICE! That's DEF gonna be an option down the road
Thanks everyone so far for your HELP!!!! Great Stuff!!!!! 
Weak rant.
Actually I am having problems with the stock fog circuit powering DD fogs, they keep cycling on and off like tripping a breaker…may have to add a relay with real power and proper wires…like I did with all my other lights…and no the aux circuits would not safely power my Daylighters either…leave alone the serious light bars out there…
I thought the KC Pro6 Gravity LEDs were 1.78a each... with a 50" being 8 lights, a lightbar would only require ~14.3a at full load... Seems like either of the first two aux switches 'should' be able to handle that for a KC lightbar.
Stock fog light circuit ins't the same as the aux switches.
Nice. I really like the idea of replacing the stock relay box with something like this. But I would just want to use my upfitter switches to turn on the relays and use heavier gauge wire from the MLC-6 out to my accessories, instead of using the Bronco's smaller gauge pre-run wiring. I'm not really happy about running 20-30A through 18AWG.
Yes there are some fitment isssues. Without the battery hold down it fits fine but the added thickness of that bracket under it makes it about 1/4” too tall. Have my hood stops up higher enough for the hood to be flush with the fenders and there is still some rubbing. I modified the shape of the MLC cover with a hammer on the end closest to the grill and it took care of most of it. I suspect they removed the battery hold down for their R&D but I was not comfortable running an off road vehicle with the battery bouncing around. Overall I like the product though and don’t regret buying it.
