Well blow me down, I missed the earlier threads as well.
Thanks for posting your experience/solution @tdhyden79 !
Could a "clutch pulsation damper" be a part of why the Bronco's clutch feels so spongy, "slow" to engage, vague, and how the engagement point seems to change between each shift??
I would be most interested @tdhyden79 in any change to clutch feel after you remove this thing with your solutioin linked above. If it moves the clutch feel in a "regular" direction I'm going to remove it fur sur.
Thanks! I'm ordering the parts as well.Just ordered. Jegs had everything on a one-stop shop but the coupler was a couple dollars more.
Yup, ordering
Thanks! I'm ordering the parts as well.
I assume bleeding is necessary after install?
Jeg's links:
https://www.jegs.com/i/jegs-555-110321-black-4-an-swivel-coupler
https://www.jegs.com/i/tick-perform...to-o-ring-female-quick-connect-clutch-fitting
It would be standard procedure, but maybe there is a way to do this swap and not get any air in system....nah I doubt it.I assume bleeding is necessary after install?
I can't see any way as the snubber comes right off the high pressure line of the master going down to the slave. You can pre-fill this before you hook the top line up, and that should help a lot, but there's still gonna be some air that gets trapped. Being so close to the master may be able to get away just pumping it a lot.It would be standard procedure, but maybe there is a way to do this swap and not get any air in system....nah I doubt it.
This was my next project, though a rotation this weekend has me thinking I have a bit too much play on my front driveline - I thought mabye u joint at first (but looking at pics on the internet there is not one on the front drive apparently) but maybe just more backlash in the M210 then I was expecting
In any case need to chase this down first...
I can't see any way as the snubber comes right off the high pressure line of the master going down to the slave. You can pre-fill this before you hook the top line up, and that should help a lot, but there's still gonna be some air that gets trapped. Being so close to the master may be able to get away just pumping it a lot.
Ford bleeding instructions have a bleed port, I believe down by the transmission - but I don't think that would be a good idea in this case. Seems more for a new slave cylinder.
Also - My m210 has a lot of lash in it as well, but I did the gearing so no one to blame but me.
Yea, is the amount of play at the tire when mounted (I'm going to say an inch of free travel back and forth - I should have measured it) translated to more or less then the whatever 1000th's of lash in the diff is 'normal'? I suck at judging these things. I have a buddy coming over tomorrow who just re-geared his Rubicon to give me his more-than-mine expert opinion....I have never re-geared anything.Also - My m210 has a lot of lash in it as well, but I did the gearing so no one to blame but me.
That should work fine, it will be slightly shorter than my finished piece so you might have to give the hard line a little bend here and there for the support bracket to line up, but it should work great!Yeah when I went to order Summit wanted like $12 shipping for $8 part or whatever it was. Looked all over the Tick performance site and couldn't find anything that looked like the other part we need. After some back and forth with the very helpful sales guy he provided this part. I've only just ordered so can't vouch for it being exactly what we need. But was able to get everything from Tick for a very reasonable price. Around $70.
Earls AT Aluminum Adapters, Black Ano -4 Str An Female Swivel Union, Part #AT915104ERL
https://www.tickperformance.com/ear...95-b34e-0b825705b42d&search_query=AT915104ERL
Okay thanks, that was my main worry, being too long or too short.That should work fine, it will be slightly shorter than my finished piece so you might have to give the hard line a little bend here and there for the support bracket to line up, but it should work great!