De-complicating Audio in the Bronco

[ChrisNYC]

For anyone who has the Mobridge amp set up, do you know what the settings should be for things on the head unit like fade, surround sound/stereo, bass, treble, mid and speed additive volume?

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[mpeugeot]

For anyone who has the Mobridge amp set up, do you know what the settings should be for things on the head unit like fade, surround sound/stereo, bass, treble, mid and speed additive volume?

Yes.

Spoiler

Fade - default (adjust to personal taste)
Stereo/Surround - doesn't work
Bass/Treble/Mid - default (adjust to personal taste)
Speed sensitive - picks amplifier tuning profile.

 

[mObridge]

This is going to depend massively on personal taste and speakers. What have you got installed?

For anyone who has the Mobridge amp set up, do you know what the settings should be for things on the head unit like fade, surround sound/stereo, bass, treble, mid and speed additive volume?

 

[ChrisNYC]

Hi. I have the following installed along with the M:

Morel Tempo Ultra Integra 4 inch speakers in the corners and center of the dash
Morel Tempo Ultra Integra 6.5 inch speakers in the kick panels and rear pods
JL Audio 10TW3-D4 sub in the Additive Car Audio subwoofer box

I am running the base Morel tune.

 

[BigECB]

**2025 Bronco updated B&O**

Ok so we have been able to dissect this system and ill outline the differences between it and the old system.

There is indeed a new amplifier, now all new Fords received an amplifier update in the 25 model year. This updated changed the A2B (audio bus) communications from the headunit to the amplifier. However, for example in the F150 B&O system ford basically kept the amp the same and just changed the coms. There was no improvement to the actual audio quality itself (Good for us, not good for people who paid good money for a 'premium' Audio system).

2025 Bronco owners did get lucky! No that lucky though... The amplifier used in the Bronco has now changed to the same one as previously seen in the Unleased systems in the F150. This amp has more channels and slightly more power so the system itself is no doubt better than the 24 Bronco system. Still lack luster to most though but non the less an improvement!

As of right now the only way to properly upgrade these audio systems is to use the F25 Pre-amp from NAV-TV (https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT1...tkJGzxsJGTXWL98c1Byc3FQpLeQ68NJGeb5taGams30mY)

I have attached the new wiring diagrams.

It looks like PAC has a pre-amp for 2025 now too...

https://pac-audio.com/products/ap4-fd32

 

[mObridge]

It looks like PAC has a pre-amp for 2025 now too...

https://pac-audio.com/products/ap4-fd32

Audio systems start with the input. Personally I wouldn't be using Pac... It's the difference between a Mercedes and a Kia

 

[87-Z28]

Is there a B6G coupon code for purchasing this amp? Are there ever any sales offered?

 

[mpeugeot]

Is there a B6G coupon code for purchasing this amp? Are there ever any sales offered?

Once upon a time it was 10% off. Black Friday maybe this year?

 

[BigECB]

Audio systems start with the input. Personally I wouldn't be using Pac... It's the difference between a Mercedes and a Kia

Are there any plans for a Mobridge DSP Amp for the 2025s?

 

[asuitelife]

Hi Guys,

I get a bajillion questions all around a similar topic so I though it would be easier for everyone if i dump my knowledge into one place.

There are 3 audio systems in the bronco:

Base:
In this system the Heaudnit(ACM, Audio control module) drives all speakers directly, woofers and tweeters are driven off the same channel in the front and then one channel each to the rear pods. In this system the ACM does all your signal processing and chimes handling.

Mid:
In this system the ACM drives all the speaker and also sends a low level signal to the rear subwoofer amplifier. In this system the ACM does all your audio processing and chimes handling as well.

**Both of the above systems can be coded to disable DSP processing and you do not need an interface**

B&O system:
This system is fundamentally different to the other two, in this system the ACM does not do any processing at all, nor does it handle chimes. it simply passes a full range unprocessed signal to the rear amplifier over A2B (Automotive audio bus) This is a pure digital 24bit 48k signal. The ACM will then send all of the fade, balance and other audio related commands including chimes via the CAN bus. The amplifier has to handle all of this as well as process the signal.

The back amplifier drives the front door woofer, the dash speakers and the subwoofer, 5 channels in total. The ACM drives the rear pods and the center channel, 3 channels total (it does not do the processing for these channels though!! this signal is fed through the rear amp and then back to the ACM via A2B). This is why we include an ACM harness in our kit to grab these speaker wires and run them back for our amp to drive them. This is also why these speakers stop playing when you fit an aftermarket A2B pre-amp or amp.

Upgrading these systems:
Base and mid are easy to upgrade but you will never get as good of a result as you will upgrading the B&O system and ill explain why. You can code the base systems and then feed them into any DSP amp and get a good result, however you are still grabbing a signal that was digital in the ACM then it was converted to analogue to be amplified, then fed into the aftermarket DSP and converted back to digital and then finally back to analogue to be amplified AGAIN. So that is 3 conversions!! You will loose a lot of fidelity.

If you're upgrading the B&O system you might as well take full advantage of this digital audio bus and get a seriously awesome system. Here are your options:

By far the easiest and most advanced way to upgrade this system is with out K2 amplifier. It is the ONLY aftermarket amplifier on the market that takes the factory A2B bus directly in. Therefore you have the most pure signal path possible. It is also the only way to retain full fade and directional chimes (like parking beeps) with a digital input. I get a lot of questions on why our amplifier is different to others and this is why.

Why you don't want to leave the B&O amp in when upgrading these systems - The B&O amplifier has a full DSP and each channel is tuned to each speaker and its specific response. The factory B&O speakers will have a completely different frequency response to most aftermarket speaker and this is why you can actually end up with a worse sounding system by just swapping speakers sometimes. Even if you add a DSP amplifier after the B&O amplifier to correct this signal you're still battling an already amplified signal and now you're double DSPing it. You also have no ability to adjust chime level independently to the rest of the signals.

What a pre-amp does - A pre-amp grabs the audio signal off the A2B bus and the audio commands off the CAN bus and converts them into an RCA output and or TOSLINK. Because the amplifier is removed from the system you get a clean untouched signal you can then feed this into any aftermarket amplifier you choose.
I recommend this approach if you want a stupid amount of power or if you like slightly warmer sound of class A/B amplifiers.

The pre-amp approach is a much bigger job as you have multiple modules to wire up and mount and tune.

Output figures of B&O amp vs K2 (RMS figures)
Factory - K2
Sub 50w 400W
Kick panels 25w 150w
All other locations 25W 70w

How to get the best bang for buck upgrade on a tight budget - This is the question i get asked the most, now as i don't really dabble in the non-B&O realm i will not comment on these systems as I don't have enough experience. This advice applies for B&O systems only
In my opinion by far the best bang for buck upgrade is to upgrade the amplifier and subwoofer. Unfortunately with modern cars that have heavily tuned factory dsp amplifier gone are the days of upgrading your speakers to 6x9s and getting awesome results. The factory speakers can handle a little bit more power and don't sound half bad when tuned correctly. As the subwoofer is the most power hungry speaker it is also the one that needs to be upgraded first when you add more power. The combination of increased sub, slightly more midbass from the increased power in the kicks and hands down better amplifier and DSP means you actually get a night and day increase in audio performance while not blowing the budget and making your wife angry.

TLDR:
- Yes, the K2 supports all factory functionality including directional chimes, it is the only way to so this with a digital signal path.
- Don't even bother trying to do anything more than a sub upgrade in a B&O system without a pre-amp installed at a minimum.
- All-in-one amp is easiest and advacned way to upgrade these cars and can be done DIY.

I also figured this would be a good place for everyone to post questions. So ask away!

I have a question Frasier,
I have a 2024 Bronco Raptor with the B&O system. Ive decided to go with your K2 8.1.1 CHANNEL DSP AMPLIFIER – B&O A2B PLUG-N-PLAY KIT FORD BRONCO.
Just to confirm, this is built for the Raptor specific model?
And
the second question is, can you tell me for a fact that the amp with or without the mounting plate will attach to the JL Audio Stealthbox® Enclosed Subwoofer for Ford Bronco (SBX-F-BRONCG6/10TW1)
PART NUMBER010-03761-00
https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/1858021/
thanks for your help

 

[cve]

@mObridge

Any base tunes for this setup?

2-door
Dash: 4” Hertz DCX-1003
Kick-panel: 6.5” Hertz DCX 165.3
Rear pods: 6.5” Hertz DCX 165.3
Sub: JL Stealthbox

Thanks!

 

[Stevoid]

I have a good tune. My set up is - MoBridge AMP, Morel Integra Front's (L, C, R) 4inch and Morel MKII 6.5 Mid Bass, Rears are JL 650x and JL Stealthbox 10. Tried to upload it but looks like it's not allowing me to. Hit me up if interested in it.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Does anyone have a pics of the B&O speaker out plug? Know the wire harnesss part #?

 

[EOD98]

Anything for 2025 B&O? I guess anything Mobridge is now NAV TV. I somehow missed that update. Anyhow, the new NAV TV option looks good. Pricey though. PAC Amp and a DSP amp seems smarter but a bit more complicated. The NAV TV setup doesn't look plug and play. You still have to wire up all the speakers, etc, from their harness. I guess its easy enough.

 

[23OBX2.7]

@mObridge

Any base tunes for this setup?

2-door
Dash: 4” Hertz DCX-1003
Kick-panel: 6.5” Hertz DCX 165.3
Rear pods: 6.5” Hertz DCX 165.3
Sub: JL Stealthbox

Thanks!

Don't waste your money on amps or DSPs with those drivers....just a LOC integrated 1000w amp for sub.

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