Tow Package arrived - contents inside

[redone17]

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[LagoCJ]

Flip...GREAT info!! Thanks for posting the wiring harness install information. I want to go the T-connector route and found some Molex connectors on eBay. Identified them as WPT889 and WPT890 using this information to identify:

https://www.motorcraft.com/content/.../wire_sets_wiring/18376-Pigtail-Book-2016.pdf

What Molex pigtail connectors would need to be used to tap the factory TT dead heads to get 12V+?

 

[LagoCJ]

FYI to the group...

I was able to order a hitch install kit (hardware and wiring). The hardware part took less than 30 mins as the bumper comes off with 6 bolts/2 wire disconnects and the hitch bolts up with the 4 big long bolts provided in the kit. Easy Peasy...

The wiring...however.........(the dealership wants $1200 for the labor)

 

[Mattwings]

FYI to the group...

I was able to order a hitch install kit (hardware and wiring). The hardware part took less than 30 mins as the bumper comes off with 6 bolts/2 wire disconnects and the hitch bolts up with the 4 big long bolts provided in the kit. Easy Peasy...

The wiring...however.........(the dealership wants $1200 for the labor)

I picked up the wiring kit today. The hitch should be in tomorrow. After reading through the 17 page install manual, it looks to be at least 3-4 hrs. I may run it to my families shop Saturday, just to make sure I have everything I need to get the job done. I have a background in 12V automotive wiring, but the project is still a bit daunting.

Thanks to all that have weighed in and provided ideas and guidance!

 

[flip]

Flip...GREAT info!! Thanks for posting the wiring harness install information. I want to go the T-connector route and found some Molex connectors on eBay. Identified them as WPT889 and WPT890 using this information to identify:

https://www.motorcraft.com/content/.../wire_sets_wiring/18376-Pigtail-Book-2016.pdf

What Molex pigtail connectors would need to be used to tap the factory TT dead heads to get 12V+?

I can't find T-tap molex to go in between the two. If you want a 12V+ source the male side of the connector is on there from the factory. Should be 3 connectors on a tree pushed on one of the studs on the left wheel well. Either of the two pin connectors is hot and come from F107 (30A) or F91 (40A). If you are hooking up the converter, which ever one you use needs to be changed to a 15A fuse to protect the converter. The large blade for 12V+ is a Yazaki 7114-4121-02

Do you have LED or halogen tail lights? LED will require one brake light wire tapped, both turn signals tapped and if you want park lights, I was going to tap one of the connectors on that gang of three instead of tail light wiring (Yazaki 7114-4111-02). I have the terminals for making some of these up but want to make sure of the lengths needed so it doesn't turn into a rats nest.

Plan is to use a Molex MX150 6 cavity male and female to connect the converter to a short pigtail with t-taps (scotch lock). The other side will be connected to the converter. I've got a tail on this one for reverse should I decide to hook it up. Need to add one that will run to the right light for turn.

 

[gizmohd]

Found Pigtails here... could probably find them cheaper elsewehere....


[WPT-889]Motorcraft/Ford car/truck part-wiring pigtail(WPT889) (nationalfleetparts.com)
[WPT-1567]Motorcraft/Ford car/truck part-wiring pigtail(old WPT890) (nationalfleetparts.com)

 

[flip]

You are so close! Get it done!

 

[Gangstead]

I can't get over how crazy this process is. Makes the factory tow package a real bargain (on models where it's available). I'm regretting not ordering it, but who knows if wanting the tow package was going to set me back months on delivery.

On every other car I've added a hitch / wiring to it's been a matter of peeling back the interior paneling back to the empty connector where the factory controller/harness would have been and plugging it in. On one car they had done the little clip on connectors to the brake wires. Is this something that might be simplified at some point in the future when someone like etrailer.com comes out with a third party module with the right connectors on it?

My main use case is a bike rack a few times a year and renting a small trailer from uhaul for one day per year. This thread has me questioning if I should just get a tire mounted rack or the hitch only without wiring and just rent an entire vehicle on the rare occasion that I would have wanted a trailer.

 

[Mattwings]

Found Pigtails here... could probably find them cheaper elsewehere....


[WPT-889]Motorcraft/Ford car/truck part-wiring pigtail(WPT889) (nationalfleetparts.com)
[WPT-1567]Motorcraft/Ford car/truck part-wiring pigtail(old WPT890) (nationalfleetparts.com)

Are you using the molecular/pigtails on unused connectors in the rear? Is it for the cleanest, most factory “like” install? I have read through the entire post a couple of times and read the install instructions and I am not sure where the molex pigtails come in (I can be very dense at times!). I am going to install a small amplifier for an 8” subwoofer at some point, so the 12v off the battery will just be done at the same time. The rest I was just going to follow the Ford instructions and tap the wires as directed. I would spend the extra if there are unused factory connectors!

 

[flip]

I can't get over how crazy this process is. Makes the factory tow package a real bargain (on models where it's available). I'm regretting not ordering it, but who knows if wanting the tow package was going to set me back months on delivery.

On every other car I've added a hitch / wiring to it's been a matter of peeling back the interior paneling back to the empty connector where the factory controller/harness would have been and plugging it in. On one car they had done the little clip on connectors to the brake wires. Is this something that might be simplified at some point in the future when someone like etrailer.com comes out with a third party module with the right connectors on it?

My main use case is a bike rack a few times a year and renting a small trailer from uhaul for one day per year. This thread has me questioning if I should just get a tire mounted rack or the hitch only without wiring and just rent an entire vehicle on the rare occasion that I would have wanted a trailer.

It really is that simple, I'm making slightly more complicated than needs to be but a ton easier than the instructions Ford has with the converter. Everything can be done in the back with little wire intrusion. Just requires a little crimping, correct terminals and some time.

 

[flip]

Are you using the molecular/pigtails on unused connectors in the rear? Is it for the cleanest, most factory “like” install? I have read through the entire post a couple of times and read the install instructions and I am not sure where the molex pigtails come in (I can be very dense at times!). I am going to install a small amplifier for an 8” subwoofer at some point, so the 12v off the battery will just be done at the same time. The rest I was just going to follow the Ford instructions and tap the wires as directed. I would spend the extra if there are unused factory connectors!

Clean. I'm using molex because I have a bunch laying around. I could tap and solder but this is going to be faster. You can just use a Scotch lock from the converter directly to the tail light but if there are problems with the converter you can't just unplug it, with my method you can. Is mine the best? Probably not but it is clean and allows all of the install to be done in the back instead of running power from the battery.

 

[Mattwings]

Clean. I'm using molex because I have a bunch laying around. I could tap and solder but this is going to be faster. You can just use a Scotch lock from the converter directly to the tail light but if there are problems with the converter you can't just unplug it, with my method you can. Is mine the best? Probably not but it is clean and allows all of the install to be done in the back instead of running power from the battery.

Makes perfect sense. I would be looking for 12v in the rear if I wasn't planning to run wire anyway. I hope it's a set it up and forget it forever install. I know I don't need a TBC. After having my Badlands for a month, there is no question in my mind the rear suspension is the limiting factor on towing and would not be comfortable towing more than my 10ft utility trailer/sea doo's etc. Thanks again for your diligence and explanations!!!! I will try and capture anything of interest in my project.

 

[LagoCJ]

I can't find T-tap molex to go in between the two. If you want a 12V+ source the male side of the connector is on there from the factory. Should be 3 connectors on a tree pushed on one of the studs on the left wheel well. Either of the two pin connectors is hot and come from F107 (30A) or F91 (40A). If you are hooking up the converter, which ever one you use needs to be changed to a 15A fuse to protect the converter. The large blade for 12V+ is a Yazaki 7114-4121-02

Do you have LED or halogen tail lights? LED will require one brake light wire tapped, both turn signals tapped and if you want park lights, I was going to tap one of the connectors on that gang of three instead of tail light wiring (Yazaki 7114-4111-02). I have the terminals for making some of these up but want to make sure of the lengths needed so it doesn't turn into a rats nest.

Plan is to use a Molex MX150 6 cavity male and female to connect the converter to a short pigtail with t-taps (scotch lock). The other side will be connected to the converter. I've got a tail on this one for reverse should I decide to hook it up. Need to add one that will run to the right light for turn.

I have LEDs. I want to be sure I am understanding your route. It sounds much easier and seems to use the TT connectors completely, rather than needing to do pigtails to the L/R tail light connectors. Am I reading that right? Or, do I still need to get the turn/brake/marker leads from the tail light harness with the 20 pin (WPT889)?

Again, can't thank Flip and everyone for diving into this and creating solutions for this problem. This should be much easier, but until it is, great to have all of the help!!

 

[LagoCJ]

Also, FYI for those investigating the pigtails to the L/R tail light harnesses, the part numbers for the Motorcraft, prebuilt pig tails are:
7U2Z14S411GA (889) and 7U2Z14S411HA (890)

 

[flip]

I have LEDs. I want to be sure I am understanding your route. It sounds much easier and seems to use the TT connectors completely, rather than needing to do pigtails to the L/R tail light connectors. Am I reading that right? Or, do I still need to get the turn/brake/marker leads from the tail light harness with the 20 pin (WPT889)?

Again, can't thank Flip and everyone for diving into this and creating solutions for this problem. This should be much easier, but until it is, great to have all of the help!!

We are just going to use a t-tap scotch lock on the individual wires. Use the 12V+ and park light in the factory plug that would go to factory TT module. We pick up the left turn and stop signal on left harness at the 20 pin and run a wire to the right side to pick up that turn signal. Truth be told, the right signal can be picked up on the passenger side but would require the harness to be opened to find the wire. Not a big deal but a lot of people might not be comfortable doing this.
I’m up to my arse with work right now and the black bronco has been out on drives so I’m really crunched on time. I’m sending @Mattwings a box of stuff since he is ready to install. Hopefully that will help. There’s a dozen ways to do this from down and dirty to full invisible OE install. My plan is somewhere in the middle and doable by almost anyone. If this works well I can try to do some prewired converters but haven’t played with precise mounting locations, wire lengths or where to pass the plug through.

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