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swamp2

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nah its the rear LCAs always.
Do you have more problems on the arms themselves or their mounting spot on the frame?
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vrtical

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Do you have more problems on the arms themselves or their mounting spot on the frame?
it will get hung up long before getting to the arms, its the frame side mount, but I have some new DV8 plates/sliders going on that should help.
 

swamp2

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You guys are rocking it. Very refreshing to have folks just listen and consider. Depending on the review from the OP here, consider me a very likely future customer.
 

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Gluestick

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This whole thread has been a joy to keep up with. Really like the direct interaction.

I would second the suggestion above where an external steel skid is mounted outermost, protecting both the tank and its straps. Would be willing to sacrifice some capacity to achieve this even, so long as net capacity improvement over OEM tank is at least 33% increase (27.5gal). That’s more than a Jerry can or largest Rotopax AND its built in so no hassle of roadside or trail side refill and no stale gas that sat too long, or constant need to vent an auxiliary can (gotta burp those Rotopax constantly)

That would increase my full loaded range quite a bit - I’m currently refilling at below 1/4 tank around 250mi and totally empty before 300mi. Just going up to 27gal tank would get me well past 350mi.
 

Ducati1098

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1979

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Pardon my ignorance if this is a dumb question but how does increased capacity affect the distance to empty gauge on the dash?

Does the car still think it’s a 20 gallon tank? Does it matter? Is there a Forscan setting to increase capacity?
 

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SHANUT

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Pardon my ignorance if this is a dumb question but how does increased capacity affect the distance to empty gauge on the dash?

Does the car still think it’s a 20 gallon tank? Does it matter? Is there a Forscan setting to increase capacity?
I haven’t read through this entire thread, but depending on how the sending unit is situated, I would assume you would just have a full tank much longer and then eventually the tank would start to show less and less fuel until it was empty.
 

1979

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I haven’t read through this entire thread, but depending on how the sending unit is situated, I would assume you would just have a full tank much longer and then eventually the tank would start to show less and less fuel until it was empty.
I don’t think the regular fuel gauge would be affected but I’m assuming the DTE and MPG calculation is based off of the car thinking the tank is 20 gallons. If you increase the capacity, the calculations are off. Not a huge deal but I’m just curious how it’ll integrate.
 
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SHANUT

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I don’t the regular fuel gauge would be affected but I’m assuming the DTE and MPG calculation is based off of the car thinking the tank is 20 gallons. If you increase the capacity, the calculations are off. Not a huge deal but I’m just curious how it’ll integrate.
Yep
 

5GENIDN

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I don’t think the regular fuel gauge would be affected but I’m assuming the DTE and MPG calculation is based off of the car thinking the tank is 20 gallons. If you increase the capacity, the calculations are off. Not a huge deal but I’m just curious how it’ll integrate.
The miles until empty is calculated by the vehicle.... I used to get 16.5 MPG and it would calculate 300 miles to empty... a few mods later and I get 12 MPG and It tells me 200 miles to empty with a full tank.... I would think a larger tank and 5 or 6 tank fulls it would start calculating a more accurate estimation... I could be wrong.
 

Techun

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The miles until empty is calculated by the vehicle.... I used to get 16.5 MPG and it would calculate 300 miles to empty... a few mods later and I get 12 MPG and It tells me 200 miles to empty with a full tank.... I would think a larger tank and 5 or 6 tank fulls it would start calculating a more accurate estimation... I could be wrong.
Depends how it's programmed. If tank size is hard coded it's going to be confused.
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