Special Tools Needed

[Tricky Mike]

Is there a downside to the LCA unbolt method? Other than probably needing an alignment after, which I think I'd need anyway given spacer impacting camber. From what I had read, unbolting the LCA avoided unbolting the CV as well.

Not sure. I know it's pretty tough to drop them if you've wheeled and bent the mounts. I just like my way because I can swap a shock in 5 minutes and don't screw up the alignment.

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[V1Rotate]

Is there any nuts or bolts that I should replace?

Some will chime in saying almost every nut on the vehicle is listed as single use but I have it on good authority from 2.5 years of reusing all the suspension nuts/bolts over a dozen times on ours that it's just for the lawyers. But do what helps you sleep at night for sure

 

[2021FordBronco2]

The axle nut is a locknut that is supposed to be single use.

Which you can buy from your dealer, Ford Performance, or most of the Ford Performance resellers (like Lethal Performance): https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-3B477-A

Or... ya know... just reuse the nut. *Hides...*

Some will chime in saying almost every nut on the vehicle is listed as single use but I have it on good authority from 2.5 years of reusing all the suspension nuts/bolts over a dozen times on ours that it's just for the lawyers. But do what helps you sleep at night for sure

Thank you for the info, can't wait to get this on!

 

[Brian_B]

My old Jeeps are held together by an assortment of fasteners from Ace Hardware and other such places. No issues over many years of driving, so yeah, it's hard for me to accept the single use directive.

It's exactly as you stated - just a liability thing, so when Ford is responsible for a repair, they don't have to rely on a mechanic to use the correct amount or type of loctite.

Most "locking" fasteners are supposed to be single use - once they get used, they deform slightly, and ~may~ not retain their ability to lock with reuse. It's not a given, with some things, like split ring washers, they are pretty obvious when they are totally wore out.

Easier to just say "get a new lock nut"... it drives a bit more in parts sales, removes some level of liability from the shop, and simplifies installation instructions. So win-win-win from the perspective of Ford.

 

[TLO]

As mentioned above there aren't any special tools required but something you might not have that's really handy is a 4-6lb deadblow hammer to knock the axle shaft loose from the hub assembly such to avoid pulling your CV apart on accident. An air hammer works too but you can swing away like Sammy Sosa in his prime juicing days with one of those big orange deadblows and not worry about screwing up the end of the axle shaft or any collateral damage if your aim sucks.

On a similar note IIRC the axle nut is 35mm so you might not have an impact socket for those laying around either.

A good impact gun is handy especially when you get to the lower shock bolts on the rear as those suckers are torqued north of 300 if you've never had them off before

I've seen strut replacements done by removing the inner-side LCA to get clearance for removal. This way you don't have to undo the axle, end-links, brake line bracket, tie-rod etc.
If you're going to do an alignment anyway....

 

[V1Rotate]

I've seen strut replacements done by removing the inner-side LCA to get clearance for removal. This way you don't have to undo the axle, end-links, brake line bracket, tie-rod etc.
If you're going to do an alignment anyway....

For sure! That's the way I did it the first time. Word of caution - three of my LCA cam bolts were galled from the factory and needed replacing after getting them out (which also wasn't easy). So if I were going that route for the first time I'd absolutely have spare bolts on hand.

For some it can also be somewhat difficult to get the bolt holes aligned on re-assembly when doing it by oneself that way also. YMMV

 

[TLO]

For sure! That's the way I did it the first time. Word of caution - three of my LCA cam bolts were galled from the factory and needed replacing after getting them out (which also wasn't easy). So if I were going that route for the first time I'd absolutely have spare bolts on hand.

For some it can also be somewhat difficult to get the bolt holes aligned on re-assembly when doing it by oneself that way also. YMMV

Good advise! I've had seized sleeves also tear apart the rubber bushings before, removing LCA bolts
At that point, it would be a much bigger job! Lol

 

[V1Rotate]

Good advise! I've had seized sleeves also tear apart the rubber bushings before, removing LCA bolts
At that point, it would be a much bigger job! Lol

Hence why i generally suggest the traditional "From the top" method if I'm not sure the skill level of he or she who's doing it. More nuts and bolts for sure but as long as you don't drop your knuckle and pull the CV apart there's very little that can go wrong. Same reason i always suggest hammering the axle shaft out of the knuckle first.. gives you a bunch more margin particularly when working alone.

That said if someone is the type that prefers a gawd awful 2 or 3" tall spacer stuffed on top of the coilover then the LCA method is easier such that youre not having to stand on the LCA/knuckle to make barely enough room to jam your new contraption into the space. At that point you could probably just remove your half shaft altogether and save yourself the trouble down the road

 

[Robs]

I was curious if doing a suspension swap from the base Big Bend shocks and struts to a Hoss 3.0 suspension system would require any special tools?

Torque wrench

 

[Robs]

Is there a downside to the LCA unbolt method? Other than probably needing an alignment after, which I think I'd need anyway given spacer impacting camber. From what I had read, unbolting the LCA avoided unbolting the CV as well.

I went the LCA method and it was a breeze

 

[Brian_B]

When I tried it I couldn’t get the UCA off. After 45 minutes of fooling with it I just went to the inner LCA. Not sure if I needed a ball joint puller or what but I could not get that sucker off the knuckle with just my cave man toolz and didn’t want to resort to bigger hammer

 

[JL8jeff]

For sure! That's the way I did it the first time. Word of caution - three of my LCA cam bolts were galled from the factory and needed replacing after getting them out (which also wasn't easy). So if I were going that route for the first time I'd absolutely have spare bolts on hand.

For some it can also be somewhat difficult to get the bolt holes aligned on re-assembly when doing it by oneself that way also. YMMV

Do you happen to have the part #'s for the LCA bolts and nuts? I'm thinking about grabbing some spares before I try to install my new stuff.

 

[V1Rotate]

Do you happen to have the part #'s for the LCA bolts and nuts? I'm thinking about grabbing some spares before I try to install my new stuff.

I do.. at least for my '22 (assuming they're still the same). I ordered mine from Ford parts center back at that time but looks like Tasca has them readily available now too
LCA bolt - W720555-S439
LCA Nut - W720216-S442

 

[JL8jeff]

I do.. at least for my '22 (assuming they're still the same). I ordered mine from Ford parts center back at that time but looks like Tasca has them readily available now too
LCA bolt - W720555-S439
LCA Nut - W720216-S442

Thanks!

 

[Callelk]

Which you can buy from your dealer, Ford Performance, or most of the Ford Performance resellers (like Lethal Performance): https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-3B477-A

Or... ya know... just reuse the nut. *Hides...*

wonder why this part says it won't fit a Bronco?

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