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Special Tools Needed

Rumbloki

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Clubs
 
Pass-through ratchet is a big time saver, reaching the top nuts. You will need it for the strut top nut and swaybar links, if taking them apart. You don't have to remove the fender liner.

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indio22

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Disconnect the UCA and tie rod, flop the knuckle out of the way, and pry down the LCA. There's juuuust enough room. When you put the spacer in you won't have enough room to reinstall though, but I bet if you flip the lower shock bolts it will clear. They might have to be pressed out of the Bilsteins?
Is there a downside to the LCA unbolt method? Other than probably needing an alignment after, which I think I'd need anyway given spacer impacting camber. From what I had read, unbolting the LCA avoided unbolting the CV as well.
 

Tricky Mike

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Is there a downside to the LCA unbolt method? Other than probably needing an alignment after, which I think I'd need anyway given spacer impacting camber. From what I had read, unbolting the LCA avoided unbolting the CV as well.
Not sure. I know it's pretty tough to drop them if you've wheeled and bent the mounts. I just like my way because I can swap a shock in 5 minutes and don't screw up the alignment.
 

V1Rotate

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Is there any nuts or bolts that I should replace?
Some will chime in saying almost every nut on the vehicle is listed as single use but I have it on good authority from 2.5 years of reusing all the suspension nuts/bolts over a dozen times on ours that it's just for the lawyers. But do what helps you sleep at night for sure
 

indio22

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Some will chime in saying almost every nut on the vehicle is listed as single use but I have it on good authority from 2.5 years of reusing all the suspension nuts/bolts over a dozen times on ours that it's just for the lawyers. But do what helps you sleep at night for sure
My old Jeeps are held together by an assortment of fasteners from Ace Hardware and other such places. No issues over many years of driving, so yeah, it's hard for me to accept the single use directive.

In particular my old 1972 Series Land Rover was built to strip down mostly using basic hand tools, but imagine doing repairs out in the wilds of Africa, and needing to carry a collection of single use hardware, what a pain.
 

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2021FordBronco2

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The axle nut is a locknut that is supposed to be single use.
Which you can buy from your dealer, Ford Performance, or most of the Ford Performance resellers (like Lethal Performance): https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-3B477-A

Or... ya know... just reuse the nut. *Hides...*

Some will chime in saying almost every nut on the vehicle is listed as single use but I have it on good authority from 2.5 years of reusing all the suspension nuts/bolts over a dozen times on ours that it's just for the lawyers. But do what helps you sleep at night for sure
Thank you for the info, can't wait to get this on!
 

Brian_B

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My old Jeeps are held together by an assortment of fasteners from Ace Hardware and other such places. No issues over many years of driving, so yeah, it's hard for me to accept the single use directive.
It's exactly as you stated - just a liability thing, so when Ford is responsible for a repair, they don't have to rely on a mechanic to use the correct amount or type of loctite.

Most "locking" fasteners are supposed to be single use - once they get used, they deform slightly, and ~may~ not retain their ability to lock with reuse. It's not a given, with some things, like split ring washers, they are pretty obvious when they are totally wore out.

Easier to just say "get a new lock nut"... it drives a bit more in parts sales, removes some level of liability from the shop, and simplifies installation instructions. So win-win-win from the perspective of Ford.
 

TLO

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As mentioned above there aren't any special tools required but something you might not have that's really handy is a 4-6lb deadblow hammer to knock the axle shaft loose from the hub assembly such to avoid pulling your CV apart on accident. An air hammer works too but you can swing away like Sammy Sosa in his prime juicing days with one of those big orange deadblows and not worry about screwing up the end of the axle shaft or any collateral damage if your aim sucks.

On a similar note IIRC the axle nut is 35mm so you might not have an impact socket for those laying around either.

A good impact gun is handy especially when you get to the lower shock bolts on the rear as those suckers are torqued north of 300 if you've never had them off before
I've seen strut replacements done by removing the inner-side LCA to get clearance for removal. This way you don't have to undo the axle, end-links, brake line bracket, tie-rod etc.
If you're going to do an alignment anyway.... 🤷
 

V1Rotate

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I've seen strut replacements done by removing the inner-side LCA to get clearance for removal. This way you don't have to undo the axle, end-links, brake line bracket, tie-rod etc.
If you're going to do an alignment anyway.... 🤷
For sure! That's the way I did it the first time. Word of caution - three of my LCA cam bolts were galled from the factory and needed replacing after getting them out (which also wasn't easy). So if I were going that route for the first time I'd absolutely have spare bolts on hand.

For some it can also be somewhat difficult to get the bolt holes aligned on re-assembly when doing it by oneself that way also. YMMV
 

TLO

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For sure! That's the way I did it the first time. Word of caution - three of my LCA cam bolts were galled from the factory and needed replacing after getting them out (which also wasn't easy). So if I were going that route for the first time I'd absolutely have spare bolts on hand.

For some it can also be somewhat difficult to get the bolt holes aligned on re-assembly when doing it by oneself that way also. YMMV
Good advise! I've had seized sleeves also tear apart the rubber bushings before, removing LCA bolts 😔
At that point, it would be a much bigger job! Lol
 

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Good advise! I've had seized sleeves also tear apart the rubber bushings before, removing LCA bolts 😔
At that point, it would be a much bigger job! Lol
Hence why i generally suggest the traditional "From the top" method if I'm not sure the skill level of he or she who's doing it. More nuts and bolts for sure but as long as you don't drop your knuckle and pull the CV apart there's very little that can go wrong. Same reason i always suggest hammering the axle shaft out of the knuckle first.. gives you a bunch more margin particularly when working alone.

That said if someone is the type that prefers a gawd awful 2 or 3" tall spacer stuffed on top of the coilover then the LCA method is easier such that youre not having to stand on the LCA/knuckle to make barely enough room to jam your new contraption into the space. At that point you could probably just remove your half shaft altogether and save yourself the trouble down the road 😄
 

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Is there a downside to the LCA unbolt method? Other than probably needing an alignment after, which I think I'd need anyway given spacer impacting camber. From what I had read, unbolting the LCA avoided unbolting the CV as well.
I went the LCA method and it was a breeze
 

Brian_B

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When I tried it I couldn’t get the UCA off. After 45 minutes of fooling with it I just went to the inner LCA. Not sure if I needed a ball joint puller or what but I could not get that sucker off the knuckle with just my cave man toolz and didn’t want to resort to bigger hammer
 

JL8jeff

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For sure! That's the way I did it the first time. Word of caution - three of my LCA cam bolts were galled from the factory and needed replacing after getting them out (which also wasn't easy). So if I were going that route for the first time I'd absolutely have spare bolts on hand.

For some it can also be somewhat difficult to get the bolt holes aligned on re-assembly when doing it by oneself that way also. YMMV
Do you happen to have the part #'s for the LCA bolts and nuts? I'm thinking about grabbing some spares before I try to install my new stuff.
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