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I was curious if doing a suspension swap from the base Big Bend shocks and struts to a Hoss 3.0 suspension system would require any special tools?
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I'll be installing some front spacers, how did you swap suspension without disconnect of CV or LCA?Nothing special, but here's a tip. I've swapped out my suspension several times now and never once removed the CVs from the knuckles or dropped the LCAs, they are unnecessary steps IMO.
A bunch of CV nuts were over torqued from the factory stretching the threads and removal destroys the shaft. I choose to not roll the dice. If you do decide to do it that way, if the nut starts getting really hard to turn just stop and order a new CV right away.
Disconnect the UCA and tie rod, flop the knuckle out of the way, and pry down the LCA. There's juuuust enough room. When you put the spacer in you won't have enough room to reinstall though, but I bet if you flip the lower shock bolts it will clear. They might have to be pressed out of the Bilsteins?I'll be installing some front spacers, how did you swap suspension without disconnect of CV or LCA?
This worked for me tho I did have to loosen up the LCA bolts on the driver side to squeeze it in. Just be sure to mark your cam location prior to loosening.Disconnect the UCA and tie rod, flop the knuckle out of the way, and pry down the LCA. There's juuuust enough room. When you put the spacer in you won't have enough room to reinstall though, but I bet if you flip the lower shock bolts it will clear. They might have to be pressed out of the Bilsteins?
Sammy corked his deadblow hammer making only weigh around 3lbs,As mentioned above there aren't any special tools required but something you might not have that's really handy is a 4-6lb deadblow hammer to knock the axle shaft loose from the hub assembly such to avoid pulling your CV apart on accident. An air hammer works too but you can swing away like Sammy Sosa in his prime juicing days with one of those big orange deadblows and not worry about screwing up the end of the axle shaft or any collateral damage if your aim sucks.
On a similar note IIRC the axle nut is 35mm so you might not have an impact socket for those laying around either.
A good impact gun is handy especially when you get to the lower shock bolts on the rear as those suckers are torqued north of 300 if you've never had them off before
Other than an alignment post install, no special tools required.
As mentioned above there aren't any special tools required but something you might not have that's really handy is a 4-6lb deadblow hammer to knock the axle shaft loose from the hub assembly such to avoid pulling your CV apart on accident. An air hammer works too but you can swing away like Sammy Sosa in his prime juicing days with one of those big orange deadblows and not worry about screwing up the end of the axle shaft or any collateral damage if your aim sucks.
On a similar note IIRC the axle nut is 35mm so you might not have an impact socket for those laying around either.
A good impact gun is handy especially when you get to the lower shock bolts on the rear as those suckers are torqued north of 300 if you've never had them off before
@V1Rotate says everything I would.
If you are fooling around with springs separate from shocks you may need a spring compressor. If they are takeoffs you shouldn't need to - it would just be like installing a coil over.
A pry bar / bottle jack or something would be nice, sometimes you have to muscle things back into place and maybe compress the shock or muscle the LCA around or something. A rope or something to tie pieces/parts up so you don't have to disconnect brake lines.
Nothing really major on there though. The coilover itself is only like 4 or 5 nuts - not much to it. Just have to get stuff around it off so you can get it off and on.
The rear the only thing you really have to do is remove the fender liner. That's the hardest part on the rear.
Awesome, thank you all for your help!Nothing special, but here's a tip. I've swapped out my suspension several times now and never once removed the CVs from the knuckles or dropped the LCAs, they are unnecessary steps IMO.
A bunch of CV nuts were over torqued from the factory stretching the threads and removal destroys the shaft. I choose to not roll the dice. If you do decide to do it that way, if the nut starts getting really hard to turn just stop and order a new CV right away.
Is there any nuts or bolts that I should replace?As mentioned above there aren't any special tools required but something you might not have that's really handy is a 4-6lb deadblow hammer to knock the axle shaft loose from the hub assembly such to avoid pulling your CV apart on accident. An air hammer works too but you can swing away like Sammy Sosa in his prime juicing days with one of those big orange deadblows and not worry about screwing up the end of the axle shaft or any collateral damage if your aim sucks.
On a similar note IIRC the axle nut is 35mm so you might not have an impact socket for those laying around either.
A good impact gun is handy especially when you get to the lower shock bolts on the rear as those suckers are torqued north of 300 if you've never had them off before
The axle nut is a locknut that is supposed to be single use.Is there any nuts or bolts that I should replace?
Which you can buy from your dealer, Ford Performance, or most of the Ford Performance resellers (like Lethal Performance): https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-3B477-AThe axle nut is a locknut that is supposed to be single use.
Wont lie - that’s what I did with a bit of locktiteOr... ya know... just reuse the nut. *Hides...*