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Suspension and Tie Rods Inquiry

Built2Wild

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I just leveled my 2-door SAS Badlands with the Eibach Pro-Lift-Kit and considering going with some Bilstein 6100s to replace the OEM Bilstein struts for better offroad use. This vehicle is intended to be my forever vehicle, so I am not trying to go to 37s. Also, this is mostly my daily form of transportation even though I am on the superbike when the weather is great. In the stock configuration I have hit some hard trails which I get out and do at least once a month, therefore this Bronco get used as its purposed. My question is: are the Bilstein 6100s a good upgrade without going over-the-top and should I worry about busting a tie rod with these upgrades (I have only seen tie rod issues when 37s have been installed, unless I missed a stock configuration with busted tie rods).
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BAUS67

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Well there is this one...........

 

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Most premature inner tie-rod failure is a function of the misuse of the front locker in conjunction with ill timed skinny pedal usage stemming from a send it attitude.

Many will recommend upgraded tie rods and steering racks but as long as you wheel smart you will be fine with that set-up. But do carry a spare inner tie rod with your recovery gear for cheap insurance.
 
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Built2Wild

Built2Wild

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Most premature inner tie-rod failure is a function of the misuse of the front locker in conjunction with ill timed skinny pedal usage stemming from a send it attitude.

Many will recommend upgraded tie rods and steering racks but as long as you wheel smart you will be fine with that set-up. But do carry a spare inner tie rod with your recovery gear for cheap insurance.
I probably should carry an extra tie rod but since I have lockers, I try to crawl over an obstacle and avoid bouncing or sending-it. Also, I only use the front locker when the tires are straight and not at a full lock-out or more the 15% turn angle. On Matt's Road Recovery, I seen him using a Bronc Buster on a busted tie to get a Bronco off the trail. I was thinking about installing the Bronc Busters or at least carry one to implement it like Matt.
 

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raqball

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I probably should carry an extra tie rod but since I have lockers, I try to crawl over an obstacle and avoid bouncing or sending-it. Also, I only use the front locker when the tires are straight and not at a full lock-out or more the 15% turn angle. On Matt's Road Recovery, I seen him using a Bronc Buster on a busted tie to get a Bronco off the trail. I was thinking about installing the Bronc Busters or at least carry one to implement it like Matt.
I would not upgrade the tie rods nor would I use any type of tie rod brace (except for emergency on the trail use) without addressing the steering rack. Doing so will simply transfer the failure point from the tie rod to the rack. I'd much rather have a busted tie rod as opposed to a busted rack on the trail.

I did a 74Weld Stage 1 Steering Rack upgrade today along with Icon XD Forged Tie Rods.

After seeing how ridiculously thin the stock steering rack end cap actually is, I am glad I replaced it with the 74 Weld kit.

See photos of the stock v 74Weld rack end cap in my build thread here: https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/my-2023-bronco-badlands-2dr-build.90285/page-3#post-2251578
 

Oldhippie

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I don’t think 6100s are much better (if at all better) than your badlands coilovers…Iā€˜m saving up for at least 4wp or better ones when the stock ones bite the dust…as stated upgrading tie rods is just asking for trouble from the rack…I would recommend putting BB or RC bushings in the rack and carrying tie rods and tools…party on!
 

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Most premature inner tie-rod failure is a function of the misuse of the front locker in conjunction with ill timed skinny pedal usage stemming from a send it attitude.
So if I don't have a front locker I'm less likely to have a tie rod failure? That's good to know.
 

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BAUS67

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So if I don't have a front locker I'm less likely to have a tie rod failure? That's good to know.

Less likey, yes, still need to wheel smart.

Easy on the skinny pedal, especially when the suspension is drooped.
 
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SierraBronco

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I would not upgrade the tie rods nor would I use any type of tie rod brace (except for emergency on the trail use) without addressing the steering rack. Doing so will simply transfer the failure point from the tie rod to the rack. I'd much rather have a busted tie rod as opposed to a busted rack on the trail.

I did a 74Weld Stage 1 Steering Rack upgrade today along with Icon XD Forged Tie Rods.

After seeing how ridiculously thin the stock steering rack end cap actually is, I am glad I replaced it with the 74 Weld kit.

See photos of the stock v 74Weld rack end cap in my build thread here: https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/my-2023-bronco-badlands-2dr-build.90285/page-3#post-2251578
Plus one on this. We’re doing an extensive build and went with stage three from 74Weld and RPG tierods, but we’ll need that with portals and 40’s. Keeping stock tires going with their stage one is good insurance. Also keep in mind that not all bushings are created the same. This is a long video but highly informative.

Edit-DO NOT install braces/sleeves. If you do something that would break the tierod but have those installed, yes-your tierod will likely be saved. But you have transferred those forces to the steering rack and are now shortening it’s life. Think of the tierods as a fuse. If you keep popping the fuse you figure out why and fix the issue. Installing a bigger fuse or bypassing it risks burning down your rig. Don’t burn down your steering rack. It’s much harder to fix on the trail than a tierod.

 
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1st 75th ranger

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I just leveled my 2-door SAS Badlands with the Eibach Pro-Lift-Kit and considering going with some Bilstein 6100s to replace the OEM Bilstein struts for better offroad use. This vehicle is intended to be my forever vehicle, so I am not trying to go to 37s. Also, this is mostly my daily form of transportation even though I am on the superbike when the weather is great. In the stock configuration I have hit some hard trails which I get out and do at least once a month, therefore this Bronco get used as its purposed. My question is: are the Bilstein 6100s a good upgrade without going over-the-top and should I worry about busting a tie rod with these upgrades (I have only seen tie rod issues when 37s have been installed, unless I missed a stock configuration with busted tie rods).
i use bronco buster tie rod brace as i only mud and beach not crawl yes im told it now may be a steering break as the tie rod is your "circuit breaker" so to speak and yes i will upgrade steering components when its in the budget ...some use bronco brace as a quick fix on the trail also
 

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i use bronco buster tie rod brace as i only mud and beach not crawl yes im told it now may be a steering break as the tie rod is your "circuit breaker" so to speak and yes i will upgrade steering components when its in the budget ...some use bronco brace as a quick fix on the trail also
How long does it take to install those and aren’t they something like $400? I’m legitimately curious if it’s faster/easier than throwing on a new inner that’s $38.
 

1st 75th ranger

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its to easy ...crawl under put over weak spot on tie rod allen wrench down done
i have mine allen wrench side out ..it was easier to tighten and like the look

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