HOSS 3.0 Lift options?

[Chritaka]

Anyone installed with the shock still on the truck? Their F150 Raptor install vid shows them doing this, which is the same 2 piece screw together design. Seems this is the point of this design vs the 1 piece design for SAS.

however, seems like most are still removing the shock for install…

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[Chritaka]

Also, considering just doing this mod for 2” lift in rear and better clearance :- DONE! I have re-drilled rear shock mount 2” higher, =more clearance and 2” lift.

Then just perch 2.25 or 3” or perch/spacer combo in front For 2.5-3.25” depending on how much the bumper/winch make it sag.

 

[WandatheWildtrak]

Anyone installed with the shock still on the truck? Their F150 Raptor install vid shows them doing this, which is the same 2 piece screw together design. Seems this is the point of this design vs the 1 piece design for SAS.

however, seems like most are still removing the shock for install…

I intended to attempt this, but the spring compressor wouldn’t fit. Disco sway bar, drive on ramp, install compressor, lift vehicle, very little work, but the style spring compressor I have would not fit on vehicle. Also, the factory spring Perch took quite a bit of persuasion to get unseated. Maybe someone can pull it off, but I see no way other than separating spring and shock. Even with three spring compressors on the spring, I was not comfortable standing it on end and persuading the Perch down to install the collar. Smacking that setup with a hammer just doesn’t seem like a good idea.

 

[NJNMDoc]

I intended to attempt this, but the spring compressor wouldn’t fit. Disco sway bar, drive on ramp, install compressor, lift vehicle, very little work, but the style spring compressor I have would not fit on vehicle. Also, the factory spring Perch took quite a bit of persuasion to get unseated. Maybe someone can pull it off, but I see no way other than separating spring and shock. Even with three spring compressors on the spring, I was not comfortable standing it on end and persuading the Perch down to install the collar. Smacking that setup with a hammer just doesn’t seem like a good idea.

What is your assessment of the ride? Do your impressions track with mine? If so I think it’s safe to say that there’s some level of consensus forming.

 

[WandatheWildtrak]

I believe we have a consensus. The ride is barely affected.

I found myself trying to find differences in the ride, because they should exist, but it’s tough to notice them. Maybe slightly more harsh going over potholes and joints in the road, but that’s it. It does feel more stable in corners.

At about 25 mph, I purposely went off the road and into an empty rocky lot with a 4” drop from asphalt to earth, then back on the road maintaining speed. Me and a buddy looked at each other in amazement how smooth and controlled it was. No different than before.

The wife drove it today and I asked her if it felt different. She said “No, is it supposed to?”

 

[Heckler]

I think as far as ride quality for normal every driving you shouldn’t notice much difference but you have to remember your also are loosing some droop, with low speed crawling stuff it shouldn’t be a big deal but high speed whoops and dips where your suspension uses that negative travel to dip into the uneven surfaces in the road/trail may be a different story. An inch or less may not be too bad but 3” I would think your high speed (Baja type) trail running you might really notice it, by compressing the spring you are removing some of that down travel that allows the suspension to follow the imperfections in the road and keep your wheel in contact with the ground, just something to keep in mind. If your mainly only driving on the street it shouldn’t be a big deal and might actually improve handling, low speed crawling it should be minimal impact as well.

 

[NJNMDoc]

I believe we have a consensus. The ride is barely affected.

I found myself trying to find differences in the ride, because they should exist, but it’s tough to notice them. Maybe slightly more harsh going over potholes and joints in the road, but that’s it. It does feel more stable in corners.

At about 25 mph, I purposely went off the road and into an empty rocky lot with a 4” drop from asphalt to earth, then back on the road maintaining speed. Me and a buddy looked at each other in amazement how smooth and controlled it was. No different than before.

The wife drove it today and I asked her if it felt different. She said “No, is it supposed to?”

Fascinating. I know how hard it is to believe for someone just reading these posts without any actual experience of it. I know I struggled to think how it wasn’t going to significantly impact ride quality and that held me up for a while. But… here we are. For posterity, if you’re reading these posts, wondering what the outcome will be… now you know.

The ONLY thing I haven’t done with it yet is really push the hell out of it off-road. But that’s next (waiting on my RCI skid plate order). After I get those installed I’m going to take her out to play… I don’t do serious rock crawling so that won’t be the nature of my report. But I will push it off camber in the steep, rocky, nasty wilderness areas out here.

 

[WandatheWildtrak]

I think as far as ride quality for normal every driving you shouldn’t notice much difference but you have to remember your also are loosing some droop, with low speed crawling stuff it shouldn’t be a big deal but high speed whoops and dips where your suspension uses that negative travel to dip into the uneven surfaces in the road/trail may be a different story. An inch or less may not be too bad but 3” I would think your high speed (Baja type) trail running you might really notice it, by compressing the spring you are removing some of that down travel that allows the suspension to follow the imperfections in the road and keep your wheel in contact with the ground, just something to keep in mind. If your mainly only driving on the street it shouldn’t be a big deal and might actually improve handling, low speed crawling it should be minimal impact as well.

Very solid point. I will never know this effect because I have no intent to Baja this thing, even though it is capable (possibly less capable now.) It will see trails and some rock crawling, but sadly it will primarily be a pavement Queen.

 

[Heckler]

Very solid point. I will never know this effect because I have no intent to Baja this thing, even though it is capable (possibly less capable now.) It will see trails and some rock crawling, but sadly it will primarily be a pavement Queen.

Yea for your use case (and likely many others) it’s a non issue but for some, especially those living in places like Southern California where there is lots of places to run in the desert it is something to keep in mind.

 

[Chritaka]

I think as far as ride quality for normal every driving you shouldn’t notice much difference but you have to remember your also are loosing some droop, with low speed crawling stuff it shouldn’t be a big deal but high speed whoops and dips where your suspension uses that negative travel to dip into the uneven surfaces in the road/trail may be a different story. An inch or less may not be too bad but 3” I would think your high speed (Baja type) trail running you might really notice it, by compressing the spring you are removing some of that down travel that allows the suspension to follow the imperfections in the road and keep your wheel in contact with the ground, just something to keep in mind. If your mainly only driving on the street it shouldn’t be a big deal and might actually improve handling, low speed crawling it should be minimal impact as well.

This is why I was looking at doing a 1.5" RPG with 1" or 1.5" top spacer to add back the lost droop in the front to rebalance, minimizing/offsetting impacts of each, and achieving 2.5-3" of lift. This is essentially what the Icon and Zone lifts do.

This coupled with the redrilled shock mount 2" lift mod in rear should get me where I need to be. I can always add another 1" top spacer in rear, which is said to be a better option in the rear anyway vs perches. Also, seems most adj. coilover sets are 0-2" lift in rear so shouldn't be an issue with this mod if I need to go this direction in the future.

I reached out to Icon and they said they don't know if/when they'll make a kit for the HOSS 3.0.

 

[derichio02]

I just got my Wildtrak back from RPG yesterday. Had collars put on front and back. I went with 2.25” up front and 1.5” in rear. Bronco sits within a .25” of level. Ride is definitely a little firmer, but still nice.

Did you have any rubbing lock to lock(U-Turn)? Or on inclines? Off-Road? This is the exact setup I am looking for 2.25/1.5 with 37” KO2’s and 17x8.5 0 offset. But looking for Zero rubbing. Did you do any other mods?

 

[meffie]

Did you have any rubbing lock to lock(U-Turn)? Or on inclines? Off-Road? This is the exact setup I am looking for 2.25/1.5 with 37” KO2’s and 17x8.5 0 offset. But looking for Zero rubbing. Did you do any other mods?

Out of curiosity, why did you stay @ 8.5 width if you swapped to wheels with 0 offset? Or are you still running factory and added spacers to bring you out?

Not that it matters, was just curious. I bumped to 17x9 @ 0 based on what RPG recommended, as well as multiple other posts.

 

[derichio02]

Out of curiosity, why did you stay @ 8.5 width if you swapped to wheels with 0 offset? Or are you still running factory and added spacers to bring you out?

Not that it matters, was just curious. I bumped to 17x9 @ 0 based on what RPG recommended, as well as multiple other posts.

Im not stuck on 17x8.5, the wheels I was looking at were 17x8.5 +25 or + 0. Ultimately I will adjust based on the specs required to run 37’s. If that is a 17x9 +0 then I will find wheels that match. I just want to swap to 37’s with as minimal lift as possible and have no rubbing either on or off road and not cut any steel. I have a set of 37” KO2’s already in my garage.

What setup are you running now?

 

[Chritaka]

Can’t say- I haven’t had a ton of weight in it. And I don’t plan on using this rig for overlanding purposes (2500 for that) so it’s not really going to have to carry a ton of weight. That’s a good point tho curious if anyone can comment.

So I did a test today while hauling some mulch.


Normally I’m front 39.5” rear 40.5” measured at the top of the fender arch (not flare).

Weight per scale was 35 lbs per 2-cu ft bag mulch.

Added x12 bags = 420 lbs

Sagged to 39.5” rear

5 bags @ 175 lbs

Sagged to 40” rear

 

[derichio02]

So is there a consensus for zero rubbing? I see folks stating their offset but not the width of their wheel. Folks in stock rims with 1.25” spacers are effectively running 17x8.5 -1.75 offset (1.25”=31.75mm). If folks are running 17x9 +0 things will move 5mm give or take a few mm.

I am wanting to run a 2.25” or 2” up front and a 1.5 in the rear with a 17x9 +0 or 17x8.5 +0 but haven’t found a definitive answer if this would work or not with zero rubbing on or moderate off-road. Any help is appreciated.

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