Never ran it otherwise. It was also only $10 when I got it. Seemed like a no-brainer.
Thanks for this write up - is helpful. Did you notice any difference in sound from before and after the hookup to the battery? Or did you not run the amp/stereo without the battery hookup first?Just did it yesterday.
1. The access from the driver footwell into the engine bay is a rubber membrane located high up the footwell above your left foot. I used an Xactio knife to slit it.
2. Push the naked end of the wire through. Once the end is through, you will see it poking out when you look in the engine bay. Pull it through. Secure the wire in the engine bay with wire ties (see pics)
3. I’m assuming you’re using @plugnplaykits harness wire. The appropriate couplings on the amp side are self explanatory.
4. You need to get to the amp. Mine is under the steering column on the metal plate.
5. The power wire couplings plug into the amp. The harness joining the amp to the acm plugs into the power wire couplings.
6. CHANGE THE COMPRESSION SWITCH TO OFF(3rd switch) as per Kicker tech support.
7. Attach the ground wire to one of the screws securing the metal plate. ( i guessed on that one)
8. Cut the wire loop on the inline fuse that came with the wire. Use the provided butt connector to join the fuse to the power line.
9. Attach the wire ring connector (provided) to the other half of the wire on the inline fuse. Attach that to the screw of the bracket sitting on the battery positive terminal.
9. I used the Xacto knife to cut a space in the red rubber terminal cover to give access to the power wire.
That’s it. I went into this whole install having no idea what I was doing. @RagnarKon will attest to that!
I’m embarrassed to say it took me 11 hours. The time suckers were wresting with the center HVAC panel……getting the harness acm connector end attached to the acm, and figuring out where I was putting the harness wire, and getting it to the connecting harness to the amp. Not to mention 3 calls with Kicker support(fantastic) and 3 calls with Joe at @plugnplaykits
. Joe, you might want to include my explanation of the power wire with the harness. Any experienced installer will know all this, but many of your customers probably aren’t. Feel free to use my pics if you'd like.
I did not have to pull the center console (@RagnarKon awesome video) . I managed to stuff it all in there behind the HVAC panel under the radio. Very tight, but doable.
if I’ve done some things here that someone with experience reading this has an issue with, PLEASE comment.
Hers my ask for help on a few things…
1. The pod speakers(Kicker 4”) sound awful. Dull…flat…”distorty”
2. Though I’ve read people are satisfied with the stock kick panel speakers, I think they sound like shit. Recommendations?
3. The car chime sounds when pushing the radio buttons is way too loud now!
These are my current Forscsn settings.
727-01-01. 382B. 2AF1. 00AE
727-01-02 0900. 000D. 0047
I am going to take them back to original as built. I am running a 6.75” kicker sub with the fusion amp. Doing that will turn that off.
I am going to take the gains to 0, and rerun the pink noise calibration. I am then going to adjust the gain controls, but not nudging to the limit lights firing. I can’t take the volume above 10 at the current settings! That might help with the chime volume.
I will then change the Forscsn setting to activate the sub xxxx xAxx xxxx.
BIG QUESTION…What is the difference between the as built settings between the 6 and 7 speaker settings? Since my truck came with the sub delete(SDARS), but I am now running a sub that is essentially Fords sub setup, I’m not sure what to do here.
I still don’t know what the impact is on having the speakers set to either Soeaker, Speaker/Tweeter, or just Tweeter. I’m not swapping any more speakers, other than upgrading the kickpanels.
im going to finish this today, some some quick feedback would be appreciated.
Huge shoutouts to…
@RagnarKon @JimV @plugnplaykits @gaaangs … and anyone I’ve missed that contributed to the ‘firehouse’ education and help. Hopefully I’m reaching a point where I can contribute in kind.
What bass blockers did you install? I’ve got 600hz in the dash, but none in the pods. I agree with you, especially since I have the sub.
I got these - its bass blockers and wiring harness all in one:
I had 600 for almost a year (that’s what Crutchfield suggested in Aug 2021). Went to 300. Much better.
Did it improve the overall quality of the soundstage? And, did you rerun the kicker 200.4 calibration?
Since I'm now running the sub, should I be starting with Forscan's 7 speaker As Built, or 6 speaker as built? I'm confused in terms of the choices between Spear, Speaker/Tweeter, and Tweeter on the speakers.
If you remove the Ford EQ in forescan then the pods pick up more bass - hence the need for bass blockers. I still am not sure they are NEEDED but I put them on there just to be safe.
Set it for Speaker.
I’m running 6.5” Memphis MJP6 and I turned up the gain a couple of notches. No blockers. They sound incredible.
You are using 6.5s in the pods, not 4 inch speakers in the pods. WIth the 4 inch speakrs and the Ford EQ turned off, at high volumes I found the 4 inch speakers a bit distorted. Just my set up, though.
Are these in the kick panels or did you bump up the pods from 4" to 6"? Also, what's the impact between the Speaker setting and the Speaker/Tweeter setting? Especially if I have the EQ at 0. I'm still not sure how they all play together.
I feel like my dash 4" kickers are to sharp. Will going to 300's from the 600's I have on them now calm that down?
Sp/Tw Front $" Kicker Dash/Stock kickpanels (but not for long)
THanks so much for the detailed instructions!Just did it yesterday.
1. The access from the driver footwell into the engine bay is a rubber membrane located high up the footwell above your left foot. I used an Xactio knife to slit it.
2. Push the naked end of the wire through. Once the end is through, you will see it poking out when you look in the engine bay. Pull it through. Secure the wire in the engine bay with wire ties (see pics)
3. I’m assuming you’re using @plugnplaykits harness wire. The appropriate couplings on the amp side are self explanatory.
4. You need to get to the amp. Mine is under the steering column on the metal plate.
5. The power wire couplings plug into the amp. The harness joining the amp to the acm plugs into the power wire couplings.
6. CHANGE THE COMPRESSION SWITCH TO OFF(3rd switch) as per Kicker tech support.
7. Attach the ground wire to one of the screws securing the metal plate. ( i guessed on that one)
8. Cut the wire loop on the inline fuse that came with the wire. Use the provided butt connector to join the fuse to the power line.
9. Attach the wire ring connector (provided) to the other half of the wire on the inline fuse. Attach that to the screw of the bracket sitting on the battery positive terminal.
9. I used the Xacto knife to cut a space in the red rubber terminal cover to give access to the power wire.
That’s it. I went into this whole install having no idea what I was doing. @RagnarKon will attest to that!
I’m embarrassed to say it took me 11 hours. The time suckers were wresting with the center HVAC panel…
I did not have to pull the center console (@RagnarKon awesome video) . I managed to stuff it all in there behind the HVAC panel under the radio. Very tight, but doable.
if I’ve done some things here that someone with experience reading this has an issue with, PLEASE comment.
Hers my ask for help on a few things…
1. The pod speakers(Kicker 4”) sound awful. Dull…flat…”distorty”
2. Though I’ve read people are satisfied with the stock kick panel speakers, I think they sound like shit. Recommendations?
3. The car chime sounds when pushing the radio buttons is way too loud now!
These are my current Forscsn settings.
727-01-01. 382B. 2AF1. 00AE
727-01-02 0900. 000D. 0047
I am going to take them back to original as built. I am running a 6.75” kicker sub with the fusion amp. Doing that will turn that off.
I am going to take the gains to 0, and rerun the pink noise calibration. I am then going to adjust the gain controls, but not nudging to the limit lights firing. I can’t take the volume above 10 at the current settings! That might help with the chime volume.
I will then change the Forscsn setting to activate the sub xxxx xAxx xxxx.
BIG QUESTION…What is the difference between the as built settings between the 6 and 7 speaker settings? Since my truck came with the sub delete(SDARS), but I am now running a sub that is essentially Fords sub setup, I’m not sure what to do here.
I still don’t know what the impact is on having the speakers set to either Soeaker, Speaker/Tweeter, or just Tweeter. I’m not swapping any more speakers, other than upgrading the kickpanels.
im going to finish this today, some some quick feedback would be appreciated.
Huge shoutouts to…
@RagnarKon @JimV @plugnplaykits @gaaangs … and anyone I’ve missed that contributed to the ‘firehouse’ education and help. Hopefully I’m reaching a point where I can contribute in kind.
6.5 in kicker and upgraded rear pods. Not sure about the Speaker/Tweeter setting, but, there’s no room for a tweeter. I don’t think it needs it. Plenty of hi/mid range from those Memphis. I re-ran the DSP. It’s pretty perfect for the variety of music I listen to. I could enjoy a bit more low end - but, that’s a bigger project for next winter perhaps.
