Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!

[plugnplaykits]

What did he say was the actual benefit of wiring it to the battery? Maybe one of the other guys can answer, but I am not sure if I already have it installed without wiring it to the battery its worth the hassel of wiring it to the battery.

Using the kick your key at high volume settings on the radio, using the maximum power of the small amplifier can cause the amp to possibly clip or cut out at high volumes, without running the wire directly to the battery

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[gaaangs]

I was told the power coming out of the ACM will not be as stable and "fluctuation free" as power coming directly from the battery terminal. I'm not an installer nor electrically fluent, so I am now officially out of my paygrade, so ChatGPT says...

Drawing power directly from the battery is better than using the ACM (Accessory Control Module) in a car when installing a stereo amplifier for several reasons:

1. Power output: The ACM is designed to provide power to the car's factory-installed audio system, which typically has low power requirements. In contrast, a high-end stereo amplifier requires a significant amount of power to operate effectively. The battery can provide the necessary power output for the amplifier, while the ACM may not be able to handle the increased demand for power.
2. Noise interference: The ACM is susceptible to electrical interference from other systems in the car, such as the engine or other electronic devices. This interference can cause noise or distortion in the audio signal, which can degrade the sound quality. On the other hand, drawing power directly from the battery can help to minimize noise interference, resulting in better audio quality.
3. Voltage stability: The voltage output of the ACM can fluctuate depending on the car's electrical load, which can affect the performance of the amplifier. In contrast, the battery provides a stable voltage output, which is essential for the amplifier to operate at its optimum level.
4. Safety: Drawing power directly from the battery with an appropriate fuse and wiring reduces the risk of fire hazards that can be caused by overloading the ACM or wiring that can overheat or catch fire.

Overall, drawing power directly from the battery is the preferred method when installing a stereo amplifier in a car, as it provides a reliable and stable power source that can help to ensure optimal performance and audio quality.

Interesting. Wonder what the process is to add the battery hook up if I already have the harness installed. Any video or anyone have documentation on that?

 

[gaaangs]

Using the kick your key at high volume settings on the radio, using the maximum power of the small amplifier can cause the amp to possibly clip or cut out at high volumes, without running the wire directly to the battery

Got ya - do you have any info on how to add the battery hook up if I already have the original harness installed?

 

[ILoveToDrive]

I installed a Kicker Key 200.4 amp in my BaseSquatch today and it made a HUGE difference. It was a straight forward install that took about an hour and a half. The install was made easy because of the harness from plugnplaykits.com. There was no need to cut, splice or drill anything. As you will see in the video below, it litterally was a plug and play operation.

The Kicker Key amp has a build-in automatic DSP that fixes Ford's terrible signal as well as adding 50 watts per channel. The combination is amazing. I have a nice 3 way component speaker set waiting to install in the front and now I'm not even sure I will bother. That is just how big of improvement this is.

I have suspected that Ford is intentionally degrading the sound quality of the base system in an effort to get customers to upgrade to the B&O. These amp and more importantly the smart DSP that is integrated in it really brings the entire stereo to life. Spend you money on this before you spend it on speakers. Good speakers can't fix low power and poor signal.

I put together a quick installation video but wasn't able to show the self tuning step because I needed my phone to play the kicker pink noise DSP turning track. If you want to see that step other installation videos show you how to do that.

Edit: the harness and amp are "Kit 11". Here is the direct link to the bronco kits.
https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...y-audio-harnesses-kits?variant=41130698473662

Could you post the document you were referring to in your video?

 

[Vicman12]

I can’t find a kicker key 200.4 amp anywhere … where can I get one ?

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

I can’t find a kicker key 200.4 amp anywhere … where can I get one ?

Try here?

 

[ILoveToDrive]

Just ordered kit 11. You're not far away in CT...do you do installs too?

LOL...asked him the same thing today. I'm in Columbia county

 

[ILoveToDrive]

I can’t find a kicker key 200.4 amp anywhere … where can I get one ?

@plugnplaykits has some inventory. I just picked up a Kit 11.

 

[ILoveToDrive]

Are you powering all 6 speakers with the Kicker KEY? If so I don't think the DSP will work correctly. In order for the DSP to work correctly, you would need to bi-amp the fronts. If you are running all 6 speakers with 4 channels, there will be a compromise. The DSP works by automatically adjusting the crossover and time delay to each speaker. When the front stage is wired in parallel, the amp is trying to adjust time delay and the crossover points to 2 different speakers on a single channel at the same time. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I don't think this is possible which is why it sounded better with it turned off.

I just spoke to Crutchfield and asked the question. Austin(their tech support) said the algorithm won't have a problem with the 6 speaker into 4 channel configuration. Where I have a concern/question is the correct way to shut down and reactivate the sub, which is a kicker 6.75 on a fusion sub, so that will sit outside the "kicker ecosystem."

 

[gaaangs]

I just spoke to Crutchfield and asked the question. Austin(their tech support) said the algorithm won't have a problem with the 6 speaker into 4 channel configuration. Where I have a concern/question is the correct way to shut down and reactivate the sub, which is a kicker 6.75 on a fusion sub, so that will sit outside the "kicker ecosystem."

Just disable it and enable it the same way you did it before via forscan.

 

[ILoveToDrive]

Just disable it and enable it the same way you did it before via forscan.

Is anyone in this thread running a fusion amp/sub combo in the rear sub location with a Kicker Key 200.4 driving the front 4 and 2 pods(dash and pods 4" - kick panel Stock 6.5's)?
I'm curious how it works out with the sub being completely independent of the kicker ecosystem. If anyone IS running that setup, what are the Forscan settings? I'm assuming EQ is at 00. What about the 1st line?

 

[Tofferf]

Got ya - do you have any info on how to add the battery hook up if I already have the original harness installed?

bump. i'd love to get instructions on this as well. @plugnplaykits

 

[redone17]

Got ya - do you have any info on how to add the battery hook up if I already have the original harness installed?

bump. i'd love to get instructions on this as well. @plugnplaykits

It’s as easy as unplugging from the backside of the amp and plugging the adapter in between the harness and the amp and then running the 12 gauge red wire to your battery through the firewall with the 20 amp fuse within 12” of the battery.

 

[gaaangs]

It’s as easy as unplugging from the backside of the amp and plugging the adapter in between the harness and the amp and then running the 12 gauge red wire to your battery through the firewall with the 20 amp fuse within 12” of the battery.

Cool - thanks for the reply. Do you have it hooked to the battery? Worth doing? Noticable improvement?

 

[ILoveToDrive]

Just did it yesterday.
1. The access from the driver footwell into the engine bay is a rubber membrane located high up the footwell above your left foot. I used an Xactio knife to slit it.

2. Push the naked end of the wire through. Once the end is through, you will see it poking out when you look in the engine bay. Pull it through. Secure the wire in the engine bay with wire ties (see pics)

3. I’m assuming you’re using @plugnplaykits harness wire. The appropriate couplings on the amp side are self explanatory.

4. You need to get to the amp. Mine is under the steering column on the metal plate.

5. The power wire couplings plug into the amp. The harness joining the amp to the acm plugs into the power wire couplings.

6. CHANGE THE COMPRESSION SWITCH TO OFF(3rd switch) as per Kicker tech support.

7. Attach the ground wire to one of the screws securing the metal plate. ( i guessed on that one)

8. Cut the wire loop on the inline fuse that came with the wire. Use the provided butt connector to join the fuse to the power line.

9. Attach the wire ring connector (provided) to the other half of the wire on the inline fuse. Attach that to the screw of the bracket sitting on the battery positive terminal.

9. I used the Xacto knife to cut a space in the red rubber terminal cover to give access to the power wire.

That’s it. I went into this whole install having no idea what I was doing. @RagnarKon will attest to that!
I’m embarrassed to say it took me 11 hours. The time suckers were wresting with the center HVAC panel……getting the harness acm connector end attached to the acm, and figuring out where I was putting the harness wire, and getting it to the connecting harness to the amp. Not to mention 3 calls with Kicker support(fantastic) and 3 calls with Joe at @plugnplaykits . Joe, you might want to include my explanation of the power wire with the harness. Any experienced installer will know all this, but many of your customers probably aren’t. Feel free to use my pics if you'd like.

I did not have to pull the center console (@RagnarKon awesome video) . I managed to stuff it all in there behind the HVAC panel under the radio. Very tight, but doable.

if I’ve done some things here that someone with experience reading this has an issue with, PLEASE comment.

Hers my ask for help on a few things…
1. The pod speakers(Kicker 4”) sound awful. Dull…flat…”distorty”
2. Though I’ve read people are satisfied with the stock kick panel speakers, I think they sound like shit. Recommendations?
3. The car chime sounds when pushing the radio buttons is way too loud now!

These are my current Forscsn settings.
727-01-01. 382B. 2AF1. 00AE
727-01-02 0900. 000D. 0047

I am going to take them back to original as built. I am running a 6.75” kicker sub with the fusion amp. Doing that will turn that off.
I am going to take the gains to 0, and rerun the pink noise calibration. I am then going to adjust the gain controls, but not nudging to the limit lights firing. I can’t take the volume above 10 at the current settings! That might help with the chime volume.
I will then change the Forscsn setting to activate the sub xxxx xAxx xxxx.

BIG QUESTION…What is the difference between the as built settings between the 6 and 7 speaker settings? Since my truck came with the sub delete(SDARS), but I am now running a sub that is essentially Fords sub setup, I’m not sure what to do here.
I still don’t know what the impact is on having the speakers set to either Soeaker, Speaker/Tweeter, or just Tweeter. I’m not swapping any more speakers, other than upgrading the kickpanels.

im going to finish this today, some some quick feedback would be appreciated.
Huge shoutouts to…
@RagnarKon @JimV @plugnplaykits @gaaangs … and anyone I’ve missed that contributed to the ‘firehouse’ education and help. Hopefully I’m reaching a point where I can contribute in kind.

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