Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!

[TT6gbd]

I actually did not purchase a harness. I used the Metra plug for the kick panels to feed both the Kicker amp input and an AudioControl line output converter for the sub amp. I did this on both sides for left and right.

For the output from the amplifier, I just ran new wires to the dash speakers and kick panels. Running wires is really easy in these vehicles.

Finally, I ran a dedicated power and ground to both amplifiers (and line output converter).

So just the front speaker channel are feeding both kicker key and lc2

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[greatlakes]

So just the front speaker channel are feeding both kicker key and lc2

Correct - I just used the signal from each kick panel (left and right)

 

[TT6gbd]

Correct - I just used the signal from each kick panel (left and right)

Last questions….I really appreciate you for taking the time to help me out, I’ve been up and down the forum on the phone with plug n play but your info has been the most helpful. From the front speakers did you go to the kicker key amp first and then split to the lc2 for the sub amp or the other way around? Does your kicker key amp make any hiss sounds? Where’s did you get the power and remote for the lc2? Reason I ask is because I see two power cables for the 2 amps but not a third power cable for lc2. last did you see a big improvement in sound quality, volume?

 

[greatlakes]

Last questions….I really appreciate you for taking the time to help me out, I’ve been up and down the forum on the phone with plug n play but your info has been the most helpful. From the front speakers did you go to the kicker key amp first and then split to the lc2 for the sub amp or the other way around? Does your kicker key amp make any hiss sounds? Where’s did you get the power and remote for the lc2? Reason I ask is because I see two power cables for the 2 amps but not a third power cable for lc2. last did you see a big improvement in sound quality, volume?

No worries - if I can help I'm glad to do so.

The two power cables I routed to the Kicker Key amp and the sub amp. Where one power wire is connected to the Kicker harness for power, I also tied in another, smaller-gauge wire to feed the lc2. I did the same for the ground. The lc2 just doesn't require that much amperage. It actually worked out well because I used 10awg heat-shrinking butt connectors (because of the 10awg power wire running to the battery). One side of the connector has the larger wire from the battery; the other side of the connector has both the power wire from the key harness and the extra power wire to feed the lc2. I did the same for the ground and tied it to a suitable ground point under the dash.

Excuse the crude drawing; it's not to scale

I actually used the lc2's signal sense feature, so the remote wire on the lc2 is out to turn on the sub amp.

I don't have any hiss, and with upgraded speakers in both the dash and kick panels, it's a huge improvement. Much better clarity especially in the highs and midbass, which is all I wanted from the front since the sub handles the low end. I also did not need any bass blockers since in bi-amp mode, the kicker automatically applies the appropriate crossover points for the dash speakers and I manually set the low-end crossover point for the kick panels using the dip switches.

I will say I hear the rears even less now (which I don't mind personally) and the navigation voice scared the crap out of me the first time since she's now amplified.

Brian

 

[TT6gbd]

Great I’m glad to hear it sounds good…now I feel more confident to start my install…someone mentioned that we need load resistors wonder if you used any in your sub amp?

 

[greatlakes]

Great I’m glad to hear it sounds good…now I feel more confident to start my install…someone mentioned that we need load resistors wonder if you used any in your sub amp?

I didn't use any load resistors

 

[Tofferf]

I ordered from Amazon but it’ll be late April until it ships.

Nevermind. It just came in today!

 

[gaaangs]

Where is everyone getting the pink noise file to run? I searched kickers website but couldnt find much?

Also - I replaced the 6 inch kick panel speakers. I used a harness and am now getting some vibration when the stock "door ajar" noise plays. PLEASE tell me I don't have to take those speakers out again and add some kind of vibration reducing material? Will the kicker key fix this itself?

 

[gaaangs]

KICKER | Test Tones

Totally missed the key tones - All I saw was the smart loc ones. Thanks. Any advice aboutthe vibrtaions?

 

[Jazer]

Totally missed the key tones - All I saw was the smart loc ones. Thanks. Any advice aboutthe vibrtaions?

Do you mean a rattle from a panel? Both sides or just one? I do not have that at all with my kicker CS kick panel speakers. Are you sure everything is installed correctly? Possible anything, even a paper tag from a wire harness or panel, etc, is in contact with the speaker?

 

[redone17]

I’ve got a slight rattle from the passenger kick panel speaker. It’s still stock. I removed the grill and it’s literally coming from the cone itself. I knew this was gonna lead to a desire to upgrade…

But, overall super happy with the full sound and rounded out soundscape.

 

[Tofferf]

Nevermind. It just came in today!

Harness came in yesterday and I installed it this morning. Thanks to everyone on this thread; it was extremely easy to install (just make sure you have the plastic pry bars before you start). Only regret is that I didn't get the harness with the sub pigtail. I guess I'll just splice the rear tower speaker for a signal when I buy an amp and a sub.

 

[redone17]

Swapped in Memphis MJP6 for the kickers. Incredible soundscape now. Really impressed for $800 total.

Infinity Ref 4” 4032CFX in the four corners
Memphis MJP6 6.5” in the kick panels
300hz Blockers in the dash
Kicked Key 200.4

I’m extremely satisfied with this setup. I was considering 6.5” in the rear. Only because it’s a bit heavy from the front. I didn’t check to see if fading it to the rear ever so slightly would balance it out better.

 

[ILoveToDrive]

I installed a Kicker Key 200.4 amp in my BaseSquatch today and it made a HUGE difference. It was a straight forward install that took about an hour and a half. The install was made easy because of the harness from plugnplaykits.com. There was no need to cut, splice or drill anything. As you will see in the video below, it litterally was a plug and play operation.

The Kicker Key amp has a build-in automatic DSP that fixes Ford's terrible signal as well as adding 50 watts per channel. The combination is amazing. I have a nice 3 way component speaker set waiting to install in the front and now I'm not even sure I will bother. That is just how big of improvement this is.

I have suspected that Ford is intentionally degrading the sound quality of the base system in an effort to get customers to upgrade to the B&O. These amp and more importantly the smart DSP that is integrated in it really brings the entire stereo to life. Spend you money on this before you spend it on speakers. Good speakers can't fix low power and poor signal.

I put together a quick installation video but wasn't able to show the self tuning step because I needed my phone to play the kicker pink noise DSP turning track. If you want to see that step other installation videos show you how to do that.

Edit: the harness and amp are "Kit 11". Here is the direct link to the bronco kits.
https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...y-audio-harnesses-kits?variant=41130698473662

@67BroncoG1 I saw you referring to a illustration document in your video. Can you provide the link to that document? Thanks...
Also, I’ve seen people mention mounting the amp on the metal plate under the steering column. You think that might be easier?
And…what speakers are you now running? I’m running 4’ kickers dash and pods, and fusion amp with 6.75” sub. The sound is acceptable but inconsistent based on the of music, volume, etc. I’m thinking the key amp will take it to the next level…yes? I feel like I’m currently max’ing out the stock acm.
Thoughts?

 

[ILoveToDrive]

It improved the sound in every single way. Much more base, vocals are clear, the imaging is one point and it sounds good at both lower volume and at high volume. It even seems to have fix the limited rear speaker issue. I suspect it is doing some channel summing to accomplish that last party trick. It is hard to overstate just how big a difference it is. This is the result those people are hoping for when they swap out speakers.

GREAT summary review of the difference. I’m sold. Now the question is….is it available?

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