ICON Complete Coilover Suspension Systems (Stages 3 through 8)

[OddBall88]

@Dusty at ICON what are y’all doing for tie rod reenforcement? Anything compatible? The spring cup is so low that even some sleeves are not compatible nevermind the splints.

With a little grinding and clocking then the right way I got the Broncbuster ones to work.

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[Triceratops]

With a little grinding and clocking then the right way I got the Broncbuster ones to work.

Got any pics?

 

[OddBall88]

Got any pics?

 

[Triceratops]

How are you at full compression? Do you have a swaybar disconnect?

 

[OddBall88]

How are you at full compression? Do you have a swaybar disconnect?

Yeah I have a badlands and it looks like it rubbed a little on the driver side coil but nothing else and I drove it up the Top of the World trail and didn’t hear any rubbing during that.

 

[rtaylor]

Doing my install Monday! Is there enough room once the fronts are mounted to use the spanner wrench to adjust?

I had mine off when adjusting (removed to install RCV axles - total failure as they had extreme vibration issues so I had to return them). The spanner should fit, but I would probably compress the springs first. Icon instructions doesn't say anything about it, but other manufacturers insist on it to prevent thread damage.

Also note that the orientation of the front coilovers is an issue and apparently varies between Broncos. I installed mine as labeled (but contrary to the instructions that became available later) and I had very little clearance to sway bar link at full droop. I also tried installing them as indicated in the instructions, but the tie bar wouldn't clear the spring and even the boot was contacting the coilover - I couldn't even turn wheels fully at full droop. Others report that the opposite orientation works better for them. There is a little slop in the lower bolts, so move coilover in the best direction for clearance before tightening.

Good luck!

 

[kodiakisland]

I had mine off when adjusting (removed to install RCV axles - total failure as they had extreme vibration issues so I had to return them). The spanner should fit, but I would probably compress the springs first. Icon instructions doesn't say anything about it, but other manufacturers insist on it to prevent thread damage.

Also note that the orientation of the front coilovers is an issue and apparently varies between Broncos. I installed mine as labeled (but contrary to the instructions that became available later) and I had very little clearance to sway bar link at full droop. I also tried installing them as indicated in the instructions, but the tie bar wouldn't clear the spring and even the boot was contacting the coilover - I couldn't even turn wheels fully at full droop. Others report that the opposite orientation works better for them. There is a little slop in the lower bolts, so move coilover in the best direction for clearance before tightening.

Good luck!

Thanks. Check in Monday afternoon. I may be sending you some DMs if I run into any problems.

Do you have about the same amount of threads showing front to back, or does the back use a lot less threads for adjustment? As the came, the fronts have about an inch or so of threads showing, but the rear is completely bottomed out with no thread showing. It also looks like the fronts have about twice as many threads as the rear overall.

I also wonder if I'll have more room with my swaybar since it is not the disco.

 

[rtaylor]

Do you have about the same amount of threads showing front to back, or does the back use a lot less threads for adjustment? As the came, the fronts have about an inch or so of threads showing, but the rear is completely bottomed out with no thread showing. It also looks like the fronts have about twice as many threads as the rear overall.

For my stage3, the rear has roughly 1/2" threads to lower. Front is more like 1.5". Note part number on rear spring if you want to compare.

Barely clears sway link for rearward offset, obstructs tie rod for forward offset. I don't know if disco vs non-disco is different.

rearward offset (as labeled, but opposite of instructions)

forward offset

You can change forward vs. rearward offset by rotating the lower mount.

 

[Defyfate11]

For my stage3, the rear has roughly 1/2" threads to lower. Front is more like 1.5". Note part number on rear spring if you want to compare.

Barely clears sway link for rearward offset, obstructs tie rod for forward offset. I don't know if disco vs non-disco is different.

rearward offset (as labeled, but opposite of instructions)

forward offset

You can change forward vs. rearward offset by rotating the lower mount.

Can you expand upon your comment "You can change forward vs. rearward offset by rotating the lower mount". I have the ICONs stage 8 and my RPG tie rods hit the coils upfront when wheels are fully turned outward. Brainstorming solution...

 

[kodiakisland]

Can you expand upon your comment "You can change forward vs. rearward offset by rotating the lower mount". I have the ICONs stage 8 and my RPG tie rods hit the coils upfront when wheels are fully turned outward. Brainstorming solution...

I think he means you just swap sides on the front and it puts that offset built into the lower bushing in on the other side of the shock body, moving it either forward or backward depending on which side it is on.

 

[kodiakisland]

For my stage3, the rear has roughly 1/2" threads to lower. Front is more like 1.5". Note part number on rear spring if you want to compare.

Barely clears sway link for rearward offset, obstructs tie rod for forward offset. I don't know if disco vs non-disco is different.

rearward offset (as labeled, but opposite of instructions)

forward offset

You can change forward vs. rearward offset by rotating the lower mount.

Thanks!
Based on that I am going to back my front coils out a bit before install. I'm going for minimal lift with 1/2 inch rake and will start with the rears backed out as far as they go.

 

[rtaylor]

Can you expand upon your comment "You can change forward vs. rearward offset by rotating the lower mount". I have the ICONs stage 8 and my RPG tie rods hit the coils upfront when wheels are fully turned outward. Brainstorming solution...

I think he means you just swap sides on the front and it puts that offset built into the lower bushing in on the other side of the shock body, moving it either forward or backward depending on which side it is on.

You can literally rotate the bottom piece 180degrees with modest force. You probably don't want to swap sides due to reservoir hoses.

.

 

[Dusty at ICON]

@Dusty at ICON what are y’all doing for tie rod reenforcement? Anything compatible? The spring cup is so low that even some sleeves are not compatible nevermind the splints.

We do not have a solution for that at this time. We were thinking of doing a complete, beefier forged replacement tie-rod ourselves, as we're not big fans of either the splints or the big billet ones with heim joints. But if the Ford Performance ones that come with HOSS 3.0 ever become readily available (as Ford has hinted they would) that would solve the issue with a factory replacement. As for compatibility of our parts with other manufacturers aftermarket parts, we can't really help that. A shock is a shock, it takes up a certain amount of space, and you can't really adjust where it lands without redesigning the entire front end.

 

[Dusty at ICON]

Anyone have a link for the wheels pictured here?

That's an ICON Rebound Pro with an experimental steel rash guard we were testing out. We ultimately decided against producing those as a separate product but that research led to developing a billet aluminum removable/replaceable rash guard that will be integrated into the next wheel design featuring our InnerLock technology (the DOT-compliant bead retention feature currently only offered in the Rebound Pro).

 

[Triceratops]

How are you at full compression? Do you have a swaybar disconnect?

We do not have a solution for that at this time. We were thinking of doing a complete, beefier forged replacement tie-rod ourselves, as we're not big fans of either the splints or the big billet ones with heim joints. But if the Ford Performance ones that come with HOSS 3.0 ever become readily available (as Ford has hinted they would) that would solve the issue with a factory replacement. As for compatibility of our parts with other manufacturers aftermarket parts, we can't really help that. A shock is a shock, it takes up a certain amount of space, and you can't really adjust where it lands without redesigning the entire front end.

A shock is a shock? You can definitely design how far down the spring cup comes. Having zero solutions for the tie rod is a serious miss.

Unfortunately I’m thinking at this point the heim joint Ones are the only option but seriously these are so close those might even be too wide.

buyer beware.

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