Voltage guage fluctuates a lot

[DeathValleyBob]

The MY25 Broncos have solved this problem: no more digital readouts. Just a gas gauge type display that reads from 8 to 18 volts. You have no idea what the voltage is-so you will stop worrying. Same BS for the oil/tranny temps. Ford did add a water temp gauge-but it’s also useless since it is highly biased to keep the ‘needle’ in the middle. They also messed up the turbo boost pressure readout.

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[dgorsett]

When my battery was getting weak, weak not really failing, voltage would vary alot between the 13s and 15s and ASS did not function. After battery replacement it has settled down a lot, usually running mid 13s to mid 14s and ASS works as it should. (I preferred when it didn't work, but it is a good diagnostic tool)

 

[Jason N]

When my battery was getting weak, weak not really failing, voltage would vary alot between the 13s and 15s and ASS did not function. After battery replacement it has settled down a lot, usually running mid 13s to mid 14s and ASS works as it should. (I preferred when it didn't work, but it is a good diagnostic tool)

FYI auto stop start will stop working when you have many different codes for many different reasons. Not always just for low battery voltage.

 

[Jason N]

Do you have pictures of your install. I ordered the system, just waiting on the batteries. I hope to install next weekend.

Not at moment but go to their YouTube page and watch the video for the bronco install. It is as easy as they say but there are a couple small things pointed out that will help make it easier. There is also a separate install video for the monitoring device. Definitely watch that one if you’re installing it. It helps with how to pull the trim pieces and route the wire. Very good videos.

 

[dgorsett]

FYI auto stop start will stop working when you have many different codes for many different reasons. Not always just for low battery voltage.

Sure, but in my case it showed up in winter so i didn't know if it was temp related, heater settings or what. When I replaced the battery all was well, so it helped confirm the bad battery.

I have lots of vehicles and don't drive any one a lot, so on the Bronco and 23 Explorer I kinda use ASS as a canary in the coal mine for charge condition.

 

[brkdncr]

How much is jumping around? Like every few seconds? I don’t think that’s normal.

mine is anywhere between high 12s to 15.0v but typically only moves every 15 mins or less often, and is usually around 14.0.

It usually sits unused m-f, only getting started on the weekends. I have an upgraded amp and more recently the e-disco sway bar. I also run an Ecoflow battery powering a 12v fridge.

I suspect there are a few things going on:

• Mild charging at cruise.
• High charge on decel.
• high charge when SoC is below some level.
• Low charge when SoC is above some level.
• Low charge during startup.
• Additional adjustments to account for temp.

I also think that battery tech hasn’t changed a whole lot, but battery management has. I honestly wish I could resto-mod modern battery management into my older vehicles considering how expensive batteries are, and how wasteful it is to be replacing them as often as I’ve done in the past.

 

[Brian_B]

I read someplace from a Ford engineer that dynamic battery charging saved more fuel than ASS did.

What @brkdncr describes above is exactly how I believe the system works from my observations as well.

Engine breaking will almost always send the alternator to 15.x volts, idling at a stoplight (no ASS) usually goes to low 13, etc

 

[Jason N]

Do you have pictures of your install. I ordered the system, just waiting on the batteries. I hope to install next weekend.

I just snapped some.

 

[Murraydog11]

The MY25 Broncos have solved this problem: no more digital readouts. Just a gas gauge type display that reads from 8 to 18 volts. You have no idea what the voltage is-so you will stop worrying. Same BS for the oil/tranny temps. Ford did add a water temp gauge-but it’s also useless since it is highly biased to keep the ‘needle’ in the middle. They also messed up the turbo boost pressure readout.

Where is your information coming from?

 

[VirginiaHeritage]

Where is your information coming from?

Can confirm.

 

[DeathValleyBob]

The dashboard of my MY25 Badsquach!
………….Virtually all car manufacturers do the temp gauge bias trick to prevent alarming ignorant drivers. The gauge is reasonably linear from cold up to thermostat temp (who cares about this zone) then it compresses everything from there to about 230-240° into a needle width (give or take) either side of the center mark then shoots into the red zone. Not much better than an idiot light. I have detailed plots for my old Rubicon and the daily driver. You can get an OBD reader to see true water temp.

 

[NAzHunter]

I just snapped some.

Great, thanks! I thought I had replied to this. Finally installed mine a couple of weeks ago and then I was able to install a WeBoost and Midland gmrs this weekend (both wired directly to the accessory battery).

I also ran my cab commander cable up above the visor but ran out of time to cut it in)..

Couple of questions…, any issues with the factory positive harness sitting flat on the battery? And, any issues getting the fuse box top off because of the orientation of the factory negative harness?

Also, until I finish the install on the cab commander, am I supposed to just keep the switch at the battery set to auto?

Thx

 

[Area51BS]

Bothered me at first back in 2022. If it doesn’t fluctuate then worry. Charging systems have gotten too complex. I assume it has something to do with mileage. Shuts down the alternator at times. I don’t know. Something I read, but wouldn’t be surprised.

 

[Jason N]

Great, thanks! I thought I had replied to this. Finally installed mine a couple of weeks ago and then I was able to install a WeBoost and Midland gmrs this weekend (both wired directly to the accessory battery).

I also ran my cab commander cable up above the visor but ran out of time to cut it in)..

Couple of questions…, any issues with the factory positive harness sitting flat on the battery? And, any issues getting the fuse box top off because of the orientation of the factory negative harness?

Also, until I finish the install on the cab commander, am I supposed to just keep the switch at the battery set to auto?

Thx

Factory positive went on ok. Wiring was just long enough I did not have to cut the cable tie lower down like in the video. I did have to tighten the bolt ALOT though to get it hold.

The fuse box, yes, hahaha. I have not taken it off yet but did realize the negative may have to be removed to do so. If it ain’t broke………cross that path when I have to remove it.

You can use it in whatever mode you want with or without the internal monitor connected. I’d say though don’t connect the wire to the unit until you have it fully installed.

 

[NAzHunter]

Factory positive went on ok. Wiring was just long enough I did not have to cut the cable tie lower down like in the video. I did have to tighten the bolt ALOT though to get it hold.

The fuse box, yes, hahaha. I have not taken it off yet but did realize the negative may have to be removed to do so. If it ain’t broke………cross that path when I have to remove it.

You can use it in whatever mode you want with or without the internal monitor connected. I’d say though don’t connect the wire to the unit until you have it fully installed.

Great, thanks for the info! I did cut, pull the wires and zip tie the harness higher and it still tends to want to lean toward the engine. I should probably see if I can tighten it up as well. And thanks, I just ran the cable but have not connected.

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